1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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'73/'76/'79 F250 4x4

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  #16  
Old 04-10-2015, 06:41 PM
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I'll offer a couple of suggestions... If you still want to try to get the steering arm off suggest a good stout puller, around 8". Leave the nut on loose, get good tension on the puller then give the puller screw a sharp hammer blow. Has worked for me. Also, on the fuel tank how about the later style frame mount? Maybe one of your donors has good mounting hardware.
 
  #17  
Old 04-10-2015, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Pinhead-227
I was able to graft the rear stabilizer bar (sway bar) from the '78 Camper Special onto the rear of my '76. The frames are different widths but I was able to bend the end links to fit my frame. The ride is MUCH better, even without the front sway bar installed.
1973/79 F250 2WD's have 37 1/2" distance between the inner frame rails behind the cab.

1973/77 F250 4WD (High Boys) have 33 1/2" distance between the inner frame rails behind the cab, but...

D3TZ-5A772-A .. Rear Sway Bar / Obsolete

1973/79 F250 2WD (except Crew & Super Cabs) / 1977 F250 4WD (High Boys-before serial number Y20,001).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2) D7TZ-5K484-A .. Rear Sway Bar Link-R/L same / Obsolete

1977/79 F250 4WD / 1979 F350 4WD

Note: 1977 F250 4WD from serial number Y20,001 (not a High Boy), 1978/79 F250 4WD & 1979 F350 4WD use a different rear sway bar than the above, but the links are the same as High Boys.
 
  #18  
Old 04-23-2015, 10:24 AM
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Thanks for all the info, NumberDummy! Here's another gem you've posted before, that I'm posting here for my future reference.
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
High Boy ~ Enthusiast term for: 1967/76 F250 4WD & 1977 F250 4WD before serial number Y20,001.

High Boys have a 5 or 6 front leaf spring pack, a divorced transfer case and an in-cab fuel tank.
Front springs on all 67/79 F250 4x4 are 3" wide. "High Boy" springs on a Low Boy raises the front by about 2 inches.

The Rough Country Add-a-Leaf kit also raises the front by about 2 inches.
 
  #19  
Old 04-28-2015, 02:35 PM
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I got a good set of Hi-Boy front leaf springs from a donor pickup which raised the front-end enough to align the pitman arm with the steering arm and virtually eliminated the bump steer.

I put the Hi-Boy springs inside the Lo-Boy spring perches, though, which will have to be either modified and/or replaced with the older style to make it safe/finished/reliable; the '78/79 springs use a larger front mounting bolt and the perch is slightly wider.

I used the Lo-Boy shackles, which are longer, to match the Lo-Boy spring perches.

It raised the front-end quite a bit, which means I'll have to go back to the donor pickup and get the rear springs as well to make the pickup set level.
 
  #20  
Old 05-02-2015, 10:10 PM
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It seems I've come across a problem that I can't figure out. After a seemingly random amount of driving, the engine will die. Ignition is good - the tachometer shows RPM and plug wires spark.

I disconnected the fuel line going to the front of the carburetor and cranked the engine - and the carb is getting no fuel.

Strange thing is, let the pickup set for 15 minutes and it'll get gas and start.

At first I thought the problem was a leaky/rusty pick-up line inside the gas tank. To test the theory I built a new pick-up tube, replacing the fuel-level sending unit. Now I'm not so sure what the problem is; the engine died again tonight and after setting for 15 minutes it started right back up.

It's not carb vapor lock - fuel isn't getting TO the carb.

I've tried driving with the gas cap slightly open to eliminate the possibility of vacuum building up in the gas tank to no avail.

The fuel pump with integral fuel filter has been replaced. Similar to THIS pump.

Fuel lines are clear.

I have no idea where to look next. Can the fuel pump, itself, vapor lock?
 
  #21  
Old 05-02-2015, 10:41 PM
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A couple things to check:
  • Rubber hoses between the tank and pump (if they're old & soft and suck closed, it'll starve for fuel)
  • Fuel tank venting (try removing the gas cap next time it happens and see if that solves it) - if you have an evaporative emissions system, this would be a plugged vent line/charcoal canister; if not, it would mean your vented fuel cap needs replacing.
 
  #22  
Old 05-04-2015, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by bkaul
A couple things to check:
  • Rubber hoses between the tank and pump (if they're old & soft and suck closed, it'll starve for fuel)
  • Fuel tank venting (try removing the gas cap next time it happens and see if that solves it) - if you have an evaporative emissions system, this would be a plugged vent line/charcoal canister; if not, it would mean your vented fuel cap needs replacing.
No evap system so that's not the problem. I've driven it with the gas cap loose and it didn't help so it can't be tank vacuum.

I replaced the pick-up tube with a temporary one (replacing the fuel level sending unit) so I'm fairly certain the pick-up tube isn't leaking. At the same time I replaced the rubber hose from the tank to the steel line so I know it can't be an old/collapsing fuel line.
 
  #23  
Old 05-04-2015, 03:15 PM
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I think the gas tank is worse off than I originally assumed... This is the fuel filter.


And this is the gunk that came out of the bottom of the fuel filter...
 
  #24  
Old 05-05-2015, 07:50 AM
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It seems that the pick-up tube was intermittently clogging, stopping fuel flow. In the process, the suction pulling against the clog seems to have ruined the fuel pump so I replaced it. I also installed an in-line filter to catch some of the rust before it is again filtered by the in-pump filter. Looks like I'm definitely in the market for a new in-cab gas tank.
 
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