Tomahawk's F100
#121
#122
#123
#124
The tail housing in my 92 M5OD is just like the one from your 94. I know 92 - 96 all used the same speed sensor.
Your doing the same thing I'm hoping to get done before winter, I'd like to get the motor out of my 93 4x4 and my 65 Mustang in the shop before bad weather sets in. I don't think I told you about that one I had a 65 Mustang find its way to my barn.
Your doing the same thing I'm hoping to get done before winter, I'd like to get the motor out of my 93 4x4 and my 65 Mustang in the shop before bad weather sets in. I don't think I told you about that one I had a 65 Mustang find its way to my barn.
It's that time of year, you gotta get 'r done before the snow flies.
Thanks for the info on the tail housing Randle. I hope you're feeling better!
I got a '92 5psd for my '89. No speedo. No problemo. I bought a speedo gear, pulled the trans down(needed shift forks anyway), milled a spot in the main shaft for a clip pin and then put it all back together with the speedo gear on it. I then machined the tailhousing for a cable. The shaft has a spot for the speedo gear, but nothing to hold it or drive it(pin). I can get some pics of my stuff as it is still in the garage.
I waiting on my crossmember(from a member here) to complete my conversion. I hung the pedals a month go, just needed to find the correct crossmember and stick it all in.
Your shift forks look good. You will find that if you drive with your hand resting on the shifter, it will grind the fork down to paperthin and then POP no more shifting. This was my first climb into a Mazda 5spd. Not that hard to do, just a little different from my old toploaders.
I waiting on my crossmember(from a member here) to complete my conversion. I hung the pedals a month go, just needed to find the correct crossmember and stick it all in.
Your shift forks look good. You will find that if you drive with your hand resting on the shifter, it will grind the fork down to paperthin and then POP no more shifting. This was my first climb into a Mazda 5spd. Not that hard to do, just a little different from my old toploaders.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-M5R2-transmission-tail-housing-2wd-/131516303158?hash=item1e9efb8736&vxp=mtr
Jeff, I'm guessing the electronic speedo started in '92? So any previous years would have the correct tailhousing.
I'd say you'll have to have MUCH better luck then me as there is NO, Nadda, Nothing left of those year trucks around here, especially to have a stick in it. Hens teeth here in the great rust belt. Might have much better luck in your neck of the woods.
I'd say you'll have to have MUCH better luck then me as there is NO, Nadda, Nothing left of those year trucks around here, especially to have a stick in it. Hens teeth here in the great rust belt. Might have much better luck in your neck of the woods.
If this turns into a cluster I prolly will.
#125
#127
Big parts are kinda getting scarce for these boxes. I got new forks for mine, speedo gear and clip and rear seal. I tried to get a mainshaft for the early box (with speedo gear) and NLA. That is why I just machined mine. I hope it works? I slipped under my truck and tried the speedo cable in the new hole and it sticks up into the middle of the cavity so I think it should ride on the gear okay. I'm used to not having a speedo in my hot rods, but this is my DD and want it to work like it is suppose to.
The T5 has nylon on the forks to help with wear but not sure if you can retrofit? As long as the slider has the right width slot to fit the bushing. I think it is the fact they use ATF in these that it does not take much to tear up the forks. I don't think ATF was meant for that kind of metal to metal friction.
Not sure if it was the right clip as the part book was kinda vague but I made it work. Only issue was it moved the gear back about 1/8" from the likely original location. I had to machine the tailhousing hole about 1/8" back from location. I just worked off the end of the case to centerline of the gear.
A toploader just has a small 3/16" ball to drive the gear and a snap ring to hold it in place.
I found a local used truck lot that deals in NW trucks only. Flies to Oregon, hand picks trucks from private owners and ships them back. Nice, rust free trucks. You pay a good price, but what else can you do? I got real lucky with my '89, it came from NC and is spotless. I'm trying to keep it that way, but in Ohio?
The T5 has nylon on the forks to help with wear but not sure if you can retrofit? As long as the slider has the right width slot to fit the bushing. I think it is the fact they use ATF in these that it does not take much to tear up the forks. I don't think ATF was meant for that kind of metal to metal friction.
Not sure if it was the right clip as the part book was kinda vague but I made it work. Only issue was it moved the gear back about 1/8" from the likely original location. I had to machine the tailhousing hole about 1/8" back from location. I just worked off the end of the case to centerline of the gear.
A toploader just has a small 3/16" ball to drive the gear and a snap ring to hold it in place.
I found a local used truck lot that deals in NW trucks only. Flies to Oregon, hand picks trucks from private owners and ships them back. Nice, rust free trucks. You pay a good price, but what else can you do? I got real lucky with my '89, it came from NC and is spotless. I'm trying to keep it that way, but in Ohio?
#128
#129
Rust proofing? Might still be a few around. Most of the real rustproofing places have closed up.
I oil spray mine. Mix of used oil(got plenty) and Fluid Film. Usually twice a year. Works well. For a 1989 F150 to still have the fender lips and rockers is a real rarity around here. If you wipe all the oil/crud off my frame it is still factory black in most places.
I see a few small oil spray places advertising on small signs. I think that would be a real EPA disaster in the making for any real business to advertise.
I oil spray mine. Mix of used oil(got plenty) and Fluid Film. Usually twice a year. Works well. For a 1989 F150 to still have the fender lips and rockers is a real rarity around here. If you wipe all the oil/crud off my frame it is still factory black in most places.
I see a few small oil spray places advertising on small signs. I think that would be a real EPA disaster in the making for any real business to advertise.
#130
Big parts are kinda getting scarce for these boxes. I got new forks for mine, speedo gear and clip and rear seal. I tried to get a mainshaft for the early box (with speedo gear) and NLA. That is why I just machined mine. I hope it works? I slipped under my truck and tried the speedo cable in the new hole and it sticks up into the middle of the cavity so I think it should ride on the gear okay. I'm used to not having a speedo in my hot rods, but this is my DD and want it to work like it is suppose to.
The T5 has nylon on the forks to help with wear but not sure if you can retrofit? As long as the slider has the right width slot to fit the bushing. I think it is the fact they use ATF in these that it does not take much to tear up the forks. I don't think ATF was meant for that kind of metal to metal friction.
Not sure if it was the right clip as the part book was kinda vague but I made it work. Only issue was it moved the gear back about 1/8" from the likely original location. I had to machine the tailhousing hole about 1/8" back from location. I just worked off the end of the case to centerline of the gear.
A toploader just has a small 3/16" ball to drive the gear and a snap ring to hold it in place.
I found a local used truck lot that deals in NW trucks only. Flies to Oregon, hand picks trucks from private owners and ships them back. Nice, rust free trucks. You pay a good price, but what else can you do? I got real lucky with my '89, it came from NC and is spotless. I'm trying to keep it that way, but in Ohio?
The T5 has nylon on the forks to help with wear but not sure if you can retrofit? As long as the slider has the right width slot to fit the bushing. I think it is the fact they use ATF in these that it does not take much to tear up the forks. I don't think ATF was meant for that kind of metal to metal friction.
Not sure if it was the right clip as the part book was kinda vague but I made it work. Only issue was it moved the gear back about 1/8" from the likely original location. I had to machine the tailhousing hole about 1/8" back from location. I just worked off the end of the case to centerline of the gear.
A toploader just has a small 3/16" ball to drive the gear and a snap ring to hold it in place.
I found a local used truck lot that deals in NW trucks only. Flies to Oregon, hand picks trucks from private owners and ships them back. Nice, rust free trucks. You pay a good price, but what else can you do? I got real lucky with my '89, it came from NC and is spotless. I'm trying to keep it that way, but in Ohio?
I would love to go out west and do some truck hunting.
Hi Jeff!
I got the case bead blasted tonight.
Tomorrow I'm going to mask it and shoot it with clear.
#131
Join Date: Mar 2009
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#132
I just used a small ball end mill and put a spot for the clip to sit in. Yes, it is not very hard and cut like butter(I was assuming some kind of case hardening? But it wasn't). I figured a round hole would be less likely to cause a breakage issue then a sharp corner of a keyway. As I mentioned, I basically duplicated what a toploader has(a spot for a small ball to drive the gear). I suppose I could have put a groove for a snap ring and put the gear in the proper location? I knew I could just cut the hole where I needed to.
I just lined my hole up with the flat surface of the tailhousing case surface(that is what my AOD looked like anyhow). I don't know what the manufacturer uses for location/rotation(surely it is CNC'd). I just guessed. If I recall it is a 7/8" hole and a 1/4-20 bolt for the clamp. Not sure if that matches the bump cable(probably)? The clamp looks the same.
I don't think these are impossible to find, yet. I paid $75 for mine at the big Columbus swap meet last winter. I hear all kinds of conflicting reports on these transmissions. I think it is more "operator error" then poor design.
Friend owns a transmission shop, so I just ordered parts right from his catalog. He checked his sources to let me know what was available.
Just last night I stopped to look at a '70 F100 4x4, suppose to be 390(aren't they all) with 4spd. No price(of course), but the body was rough enough for me not to even call to ask. Cab mounts, fenders, bed had some dents/damage. Frame looked pretty decent overall, the license plate was Wyoming. I want one, not that I need one in any stretch of the imagination.
Fireballtrucks.com is the place local to me that deals with stuff out west. Kinda pricey, but seems to be a decent guy. I stopped out a few weeks ago and talked. Doing a lot of PA sales, he goes through everything to make sure it passes state inspection.
I just lined my hole up with the flat surface of the tailhousing case surface(that is what my AOD looked like anyhow). I don't know what the manufacturer uses for location/rotation(surely it is CNC'd). I just guessed. If I recall it is a 7/8" hole and a 1/4-20 bolt for the clamp. Not sure if that matches the bump cable(probably)? The clamp looks the same.
I don't think these are impossible to find, yet. I paid $75 for mine at the big Columbus swap meet last winter. I hear all kinds of conflicting reports on these transmissions. I think it is more "operator error" then poor design.
Friend owns a transmission shop, so I just ordered parts right from his catalog. He checked his sources to let me know what was available.
Just last night I stopped to look at a '70 F100 4x4, suppose to be 390(aren't they all) with 4spd. No price(of course), but the body was rough enough for me not to even call to ask. Cab mounts, fenders, bed had some dents/damage. Frame looked pretty decent overall, the license plate was Wyoming. I want one, not that I need one in any stretch of the imagination.
Fireballtrucks.com is the place local to me that deals with stuff out west. Kinda pricey, but seems to be a decent guy. I stopped out a few weeks ago and talked. Doing a lot of PA sales, he goes through everything to make sure it passes state inspection.
#133
#134
Yes sir! You get the countershaft pushed back to the right place and the thing practically falls apart.
Thanks again for all the info! My wife told me if I get another truck she was going to me. I did go look at fireballtrucks, nice site....bookmarked!
Thanks Jeff!!!
I still need to look for the inspection cover #50....
....and the needle bearings #164.
I just used a small ball end mill and put a spot for the clip to sit in. Yes, it is not very hard and cut like butter(I was assuming some kind of case hardening? But it wasn't). I figured a round hole would be less likely to cause a breakage issue then a sharp corner of a keyway. As I mentioned, I basically duplicated what a toploader has(a spot for a small ball to drive the gear). I suppose I could have put a groove for a snap ring and put the gear in the proper location? I knew I could just cut the hole where I needed to.
I just lined my hole up with the flat surface of the tailhousing case surface(that is what my AOD looked like anyhow). I don't know what the manufacturer uses for location/rotation(surely it is CNC'd). I just guessed. If I recall it is a 7/8" hole and a 1/4-20 bolt for the clamp. Not sure if that matches the bump cable(probably)? The clamp looks the same.
I don't think these are impossible to find, yet. I paid $75 for mine at the big Columbus swap meet last winter. I hear all kinds of conflicting reports on these transmissions. I think it is more "operator error" then poor design.
Friend owns a transmission shop, so I just ordered parts right from his catalog. He checked his sources to let me know what was available.
Just last night I stopped to look at a '70 F100 4x4, suppose to be 390(aren't they all) with 4spd. No price(of course), but the body was rough enough for me not to even call to ask. Cab mounts, fenders, bed had some dents/damage. Frame looked pretty decent overall, the license plate was Wyoming. I want one, not that I need one in any stretch of the imagination.
Fireballtrucks.com is the place local to me that deals with stuff out west. Kinda pricey, but seems to be a decent guy. I stopped out a few weeks ago and talked. Doing a lot of PA sales, he goes through everything to make sure it passes state inspection.
I just lined my hole up with the flat surface of the tailhousing case surface(that is what my AOD looked like anyhow). I don't know what the manufacturer uses for location/rotation(surely it is CNC'd). I just guessed. If I recall it is a 7/8" hole and a 1/4-20 bolt for the clamp. Not sure if that matches the bump cable(probably)? The clamp looks the same.
I don't think these are impossible to find, yet. I paid $75 for mine at the big Columbus swap meet last winter. I hear all kinds of conflicting reports on these transmissions. I think it is more "operator error" then poor design.
Friend owns a transmission shop, so I just ordered parts right from his catalog. He checked his sources to let me know what was available.
Just last night I stopped to look at a '70 F100 4x4, suppose to be 390(aren't they all) with 4spd. No price(of course), but the body was rough enough for me not to even call to ask. Cab mounts, fenders, bed had some dents/damage. Frame looked pretty decent overall, the license plate was Wyoming. I want one, not that I need one in any stretch of the imagination.
Fireballtrucks.com is the place local to me that deals with stuff out west. Kinda pricey, but seems to be a decent guy. I stopped out a few weeks ago and talked. Doing a lot of PA sales, he goes through everything to make sure it passes state inspection.
1L2Z7052GA....input seal......Ford has on backorder. Order now because Ford fills backorders in order they received the order from Dealers.
E8TZ7052C......output seal.
E8TZ7N270B....Bearing.
E8TZ7223A.......Top cover gasket.
all other gasket surfaces are silicone in a tube..
E8TZ7052C......output seal.
E8TZ7N270B....Bearing.
E8TZ7223A.......Top cover gasket.
all other gasket surfaces are silicone in a tube..
I still need to look for the inspection cover #50....
....and the needle bearings #164.
#135
The #164 bearing is the part number I posted above. The cover is part number 1L5Z7564AA. Is this dealer close to you? They show it.
.
Carriage Ford Inc
908 E. lewis & Clark Parkway
Clarksville, IN 47129
Contact
<table><tbody><tr><td style="width: 50px;">Contact:</td><td>Doug Book</td></tr><tr><td style="width: 50px;">Phone:</td><td>(812) 284-4444</td></tr><tr><td style="width: 50px;">Fax:</td><td>--</td></tr></tbody></table>
.
Carriage Ford Inc
908 E. lewis & Clark Parkway
Clarksville, IN 47129
Contact
<table><tbody><tr><td style="width: 50px;">Contact:</td><td>Doug Book</td></tr><tr><td style="width: 50px;">Phone:</td><td>(812) 284-4444</td></tr><tr><td style="width: 50px;">Fax:</td><td>--</td></tr></tbody></table>