After one mile or so and it runs fine. A friend says it sounds like the fuel is leaking down but not sure what to do about that. Could it be air in the fuel line? Before it was shutting down when warm and would just cutout when driving so I changed the CSS and that went away but now after it sits over night I have this problem with it cutting out when accelerating past idle. Also;
Sometimes after I start it and start to drive it will not get over 1200 RPMs. Like it's stuck in the mud. Not every time but it happens and I have to stop and shut it off. Sometimes it will clear up right away and some times it takes a mile or so.

I have changed the fuel filter and checked the pressure at the top of the fuel bowl and it is 40 LBS at idle.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

do you notice if this only happens when you have a 1/4 tank or less of fuel? Then Hutch/Harpoon mod is in your future. I just rebuilt my fuel bowl with all new orings from diesel-o-rings.com. The original o-rings were not meant to be used with the ULSD, causing the o-rings to leak or suck air, after I rebuilt it she has been great, I also replaced the fuel heater, they have a newer style that worked out great. There o-rings can be used with the newer fuel and will last for ever, easy to do step by step instructions are included with there o-rings. a quick way to see if your losing fuel over night is open the fuel bowl in the morning and make sure it's full. If not it's bleeding back and air is entering to replace the fuel. Good luck

 

Thanks David ~ I will check in a little while to see as it has been setting for several days. I know the tank was near full when it last happened so we can rule that out. Appreciate you feedback.
David B

 

The cold idle strategy is dependent upon the BARO, MAP, EBP. All should be within 1/10th of a psi KOEO @ sea level

 

It would also make sense that the accuracy of the oil temp sensor plays a role in the PCM engine control (at any temp).

 

As David pointed out, fuel bleed down is a common problem when a fuel o-ring goes bad. The same condition happens when any part of the fuel system is worked on and air gets into the lines. Automakers decision to use o-rings benefits the assembly plants, but not us truck users. There is no rubber made that will last forever in a fuel environment.

 

Thanks Sparky.. You and David have brought up some good points. The seals are suspect on this motor since I purchased it when my motor blew up,,, I had to find a motor while in the middle of West By God... Stuck in Winslow for 10 weeks!
I found one in Phoenix but it had sat for 5 years in a truck in a warehouse,, (Some court case after a wreck).. I changed all the injector seals and a few others but not the fuel bowl... I'll order the seals and put them in and the fuel heater as well... Thanks

 

I harpooned the tank last year and replumbed it with the return at the end of the tank to avoid air bubbles..
Problem turned out to be a cam position sensor I bought from Napa... Bought one from Ford and the problem went away... Crappy parts!

 

This one's kind of baffling.

 

After reading this mine started dying while driving. It wouldn't cut out immediately like an electrical issue. It woud die like a pressure issue. However it would start right up. First thing I did was check oil level. It was good. Next I looked for.the tin nut. Lo and behold it was not there. I found it in the valley. This has happened before. Screwed it back on and all is well I in OKC.

 

I wiped some High Temp silicone gasket maker on the threads to help hold that wimpy nut on.

 

Whats even crazier is that the OP replied his own thread after two years. Sorry OP i have nothing to add

 

Yeah FreAkIfY You have nothing to add...
I did reply to my own thread but it's not well known at least to those I spoke with that the CPS I got from Napa is not the way to go on a 7.3... Caused shutdowns and dangerous situations when I was pulling a 50' trailer and suddenly I had no brakes. Stick with the Ford part on this or face strange issues,,, It toke me a year and a lot of swapping parts and scratching my head before it was fixed.

 

Glad you sorted the problem out, i wasnt trying to sound like an *** just thought it was cool to report back after some time

 

Great idea. Easily removable but should keep it from rattling off