Except that you would first expound on all the conceivable possibilities in exceedingly verbose, 8-page-microanalysis fashion.

 

Why do you keep limiting me to 8 pages???

 

I Put new Spark plugs in it and run a compression test. around 160 on all 8 cylinders .
unfortunately I do not have a timing light. so no clue on the timing.
Then it took it for a test drive but not much changed.

then i unplugged the hose from the intake manifold to the egr tree and plugged both. It did accelerate better but still backfires if i tap it all the way down from standing still.

Should i put in the effort to fix the egr system if i plan to get a new intake / carb anyway?
I have no clue if the all the vacuum lines are wired correctly. The Airpump is not connected with a belt.

Oh and if i drive on the highway it makes a ratteling sound when just holding the speed. If i take the gas away and accelerate it does stop. Also when i kick down from 2 or 3 gear and then (after accelerating a bit) go only half throttle it also makes a really ugly rattling sound. any ideas?

here is what i unplugged:

 

This is what i unplugged.





Can you tell me what the hole in the back on the top of the carb is for? There goes a hose in it on the bottom side. If its a vac hose it would leak there

 

I think the hose to the back of the carb is for filtered air to be drawn into the choke's hot air tube, but I'm going on really old memory.

I'm having a hard time figuring out what the rattling sound is - unless it is pinging. If that's the case then you have way too much timing. What initial timing do you have dialed in?

 

Where can i see the initial timing?

I will try to make a video of both rattlings. This should probably help.
rattling on the highway and after kick down sounds kinda different tho.

When i go up a hill at full throttle it does not ping. Maybe some of the vac advance stuff does not reverse fast enough after kick down and higher rpm? But it would be hard to check that.

 

You need that timing light to check initial timing. You disconnect and plug the cpvacuum advance line, put the timing light on #1 plug, and aim the light at the harmonic balancer. If you Google it you'll find plenty of videos on how to do it.

 

yep i did it but then took off to take a rattling vid. Im sorry for asking first and then thinking, i really appreciate your help
Gary

Heres the Its not the louder sheet ratling in the front, thats something loose behind the firewall. It is the rattling in the back, at the end of the video I back up gas and then put it back to half gas a couple times so you know witch rattling i mean. It turns out that the kickdown rattling is the same, it just sounds more intensive and louder because of the higher rpm. I didnt get to make a video of it because the kickdown stopped working.

but since i am getting better at V8ing i first checked the kickdown bar and noticed it fell off the carb

 

Congrats on the V8 man! The Ford 400 has tons of upside, so you should see good results from the right modifications.

 

. Hello again (I sent you here from HotRodders)... although a truck website, these are the experts on your engine... your engine is a "335" series... as the title of this forum shows... it includes the 351"C high performance and regular engines, the tall deck 351C which makes a 400" engine, and the 351"M modification of the 400 which replaced the 351C engines...


. For now, leave the hose disconnected from the vacuum advance... plug the hose to the carb... it's just for slightly better MPG while cruising at steady speeds, but the rattling will damage the engine... you can fix it when you borrow a timing light...

. In your first photo, the mechanism with 4 bolts is the accelerator pump... if its rubber diaphragm is bad then fuel leaks onto the intake manifold and the engine backfires when you floor it to WOT... any of that sound familiar? A new diaphragm costs about $3.50...

. Your old sparkplugs looked fine... the warm engine will start better when ignition timing is corrected... for now, an ounce of kerosene in the gas tank will stop the pinging/rattling...


. Make sure the choke flapper of the carb. is fully closed (remove air cleaner lid) when engine is cold and not running... fully open after engine warmed up for about 5 minutes of running...


. These engines became emissions slugs and had 265 grossHP 9:1 at first in 1970 and only about 159 netHP 7.6:1 and retarded cam timing by 1976 and later...


. A 4 bbl. intake and carb. and exhaust headers and true dual exhaust/mufflers gives best and easiest performance boost for the buck, but still only back to about 225 grossHP because of internal engine changes since 1971... you may be able to find much of that used at Detroit area swap meets... especially a 750 CFM Holley carburetor...


. A new adjustable timing chain can advance the cam and new pistons can bump the compression ratio back up... (the valves are plenty big enough for 500 HP) ... there's no good off-the-shelf 'general rebuilder' pistons available for a 351M or 400, but Ford specialist TMI has KB factory modified 351C pistons available for the 400 at a fairly reasonable price...


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...view/make/ford


. At only 80,000 miles, the original timing chain/sprocket set prolly still has some life in it, but it's retarding the cam timing...


Pistons



Ford 406 Engine Build - Hot Rod Magazine

. Where are you interning? I interned with General Motors and attended General Motors Institute in Flint, Michigan (now known as Kettering University, named for the famous GM engineer)


. This guy near you is currently working on his 400:


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html
.

 

Hi and thanks man! I already read a lot of useful stuff here!

My hose goes directly in the intake manifold on the front. I also read that it should actually should go into the carb in a ported pin. Not sure yet where such a ported pin is on my carb. I will disconnect it and test it.

gonna check that asap!

already checked that! Works fine. Closes fully and stays there when i open the gas fully and engine is cold. When engine is warm its fully open.


Will ask a shop how much dual system will cost. Today i was at one and he offered me to install a flowmaster for 150$. My current muffler is way to silent and if I cant go fast, I at least want to sound like it
Found this Intake on craigslist. yay or nay? http://toledo.craigslist.org/pts/4929238682.html
After reading through many posts here i totally agree with pistons and cams are essential to get some good healthy power out of it. But I dont think I am starting a Camshaft / Pistons swap here in my appartement with no tools. And I dont want a shop to do this for me because I would like to do it myself. I think I try to get a good cheap (maybe used) carb and intake to get a bit power out of it. And IF I take it back to germany I could rebuild the motor with no stress and maybe also already got the intake carb for it.

At Bosch Automotive Steering. Former ZF Steering Systems. In the ZF facilities in Northville.

 

Pulled the hose from the vac advance and plugged it. It now actually runs really smooth and starts up at the first cylinder firing . Also all the rattling is gone . From 5 WOT starts it only backfired once . it loosed some power tho...

so either my timing is completely off or the vac advance is plugged wrong in the intake (because you said it should go in the carb).

checked the diaphragm and it got some cracks but no light shined through it. I ordered a new one anyway. But i think you are right that it leaked there because the 4 screws were not really tight.

also sprayed arround the carb with starter spray, it rewed up 1 time very slightly but i wasn't able to repeat that. maybe it was just wind blowing it to the snorkel.

so i guess next step is setting the timing.

 

Looks like you have too much timing. Here are the pieces of timing:

• Initial advance: This is the timing you set by twisting the distributor after loosening the clamp bolt. It should be somewhere around 10 degrees BTDC, with the factory spec probably calling for 6 or 8, and experience saying you may be able to run up to 14. However, the harmonic blanacers on these trucks are very suspect as the rubber that bonds the outer to the inner dries and allows the outer to slip - and the the timing marks are useless.
• Mechanical or centrifugal advance: This is built into the distributor and is done through springs and weights. as the engine revs the weights stretch the springs and increase the advance. It isnt unusual to see 30 degrees of mechanical advance, and that is frequently in by 3000 RPM.
• Vacuum advance: As was said, this is for economy, and economy is directly related to the vacuum the engine is producing. So, more vacuum equals more advance, and it isnt unusual to see 18 degrees at 18" of vacuum. But, where to get the vacuum is hotly debated. i like ported vacuum, meaning there is no vacuum at idle but it comes on strong as soon as you open the throttle just a bit.

So, set up the timing in that order. But you will need to ensure the harmonic balance hasn't slipped, which will mean you need to find TDC. Let's take that in the next installment.

Germany? Where? We are going back in Sept to go down the Danube from Nuremberg to Budapest. Then taking some friends, who've never been, to Salzburg and then to Munich.

 

Im going back at 12. September. I am living in Leverkusen (next to cologne) and studying in Aalen next to Stuttgard and 1 hour from Munich. But I will not be in Aalen until study starts at beginning of Oktober.

so you going down the Danube on some kind of cruise liner?

 

Yep. The one you saw in the commercial if you watched Downton Abbey. Viking.

We've seen a lot of Germany, but not Cologne. But, we've been to Munich several times, as well as the Romantic Road, Kelstein House, etc. So, if we see a big Ford Torino on the road we'll wave.