I started doing the brakes on my '56 in an attempt to get the car on the road before September. I got to the front after receiving the correct left front wheel cylinder, this has the hub staked to the drum so after removing the assembly I started to clean the bearings out and repack with new grease. As I was scooping the grease out of the hub I noticed the rear bearing race was actually spinning. I used my fingers to see if I could pull it out by hand without knocking it out with a hammer and a screwdriver. I could not.


I tried locating a new assembly B5A 1102 C but no one has one and all the places I tried, Macs, Dennis-Carpenter, Concours, Larrys Thunderbirds all only sold just the drum by itself for the front and no hub. I hit up ebay and found a guy selling both front assemblies but after shipping it is pushing $200 which is too much to pay for something that probably wont even have enough material on them to turn.


So I was thinking about installing a new race and bearing and staking the race in place. That was an option I thought up but I got a bunch of feed back on the Y-blocks forever forum saying that is just a temporary fix and the race will spin again. They told me my only options is to have more metal sprayed on it and remachined which is going to be pricier than buying a used hub. Thing is though I cant find just the hub by itself nor can I find an assembly priced reasonably.


So my question is besides staking the race in what are some options to lock the new race in the hub that is not a so called temporary fix?

 

I did a little reading and found a guy talking about how he used Locktite 680 Bearing mount to repair a spun rod bearing and told the original poster that it should hold his bearing race in place without a doubt.


I did a little more reading and found out that they make different grades of Locktite 680 Bearing Mount. One of the has a operating temp of -65* to 300* F which for a wheel bearing I don't know if it is a high enough temp considering the heat from the brakes will transfer to the bearings and race since its all bolted together and in this case it is actually staked together. It also has a steel shear strength min of 2800 PSI.


I looked at another one that they offer which is a higher temp and its a Locktite bearing mount 620 which has a temp range of -65* to 450* F and a shear strength of 3,800 PSI.


The 680 is listed for high strength for slip fitted parts, the 620 is listed for high temp and high strength. The one I found for repair of worn machinery parts is the 660 which has basically the same stats as the 680 but 3,335 PSI shear strength. The only real difference besides that is the 620 and 680 is designed to fill gaps up to 0.015" while the 660 is for up to 0.020".


I honestly don't believe I have 0.020" gap on this bearing race as it doesn't have side to side movement. Plus 0.020" is quite a bit of gap too as I turn brake rotors and I know 0.004" cut provides a very distinct cut in the metal. So I feel the 0.015" should be a good fit. Only question is can I get by with the 680 or should I go with the high temp.