At the very end of my posts I listed it as Cyl for short and forgot to write it out, but the Cylinder Contribution Test returned the same results as the KOER test.

 

I think he listed it as CYL in post #8

 

Out of curiosity I scanned my trucks codes again. I found a new one I've never seen before... But then, I set my tuner back to stock and ran the tests again. Here are the results. Let me know what you think now. I might finally have got a code that might help direct me.

All pics are labeled with where the results came from.:




Newest code I've never even seen before.




Ford Specific/ basic check engine light codes











I also did the Buzz test and am going to upload it on the Web somewhere, ill try YouTube first and post it in a following post.

 

Here is my Buzz Test link on youtube. It returned 0 codes, and for recording on a cell phone from in the cab, its fairly audible. - I didnt realize my old lady was the last one logged in so its uploaded from her account on accident haha.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2T_...ature=youtu.be

 

It sounds like your phone was moving around, it's hard to pick out the buzz results. I thought I heard a weak side of the truck, like a bad UVCH... but i can't be sure.

This is what I would call an "obvious" buzz test result:


Cylinder 5 finally gave you something to test.

 

I really can't hear all of them, can you retake the video from the engine bay? Sounds like you might be in the cab.

Edit: I think I only hear 7 injectors buzzing.......

 

I had a very very crazy day, but i did record an audio clip from the engine bay of a Buzz test. Altho it is probably worthless, because yet again i forgot it should have been on stock tune. Here is the link, im not sure how uploading audio works i think if you just click it, it should take you to the website that i uploaded it to and it should stream it and not need downloaded.

Playing DP Tuner 80HP Buzz Test by International Powerstroke - picosong

 

That was very clear - they all sounded normal. While it's always best to troubleshoot in stock configuration, the tune doesn't effect a buzz.

 

Excellent, much better audio. Test sounded good

 

I'll have to wait for the weekend, or at least Friday to do any ohm testing. If they sound good, and iI'm throwing all those codes up top, what do you think is going on? I don't want to pull valve covers twice if I don't have to, I would like to have the parts on hand to just complete the task in the first pull. Also I don't want to risk something breaking or happening due to me going in there/tampering with something and not have the parts to get my truck running again because it's my DD.

 

The intermittent IDM code is the priority in my book. The others can be dealt with later. The injectors can be ohm'd at the valve cover harness & 42 pin connector so you don't have to remove the valve covers or dig into anything except removing the connectors.

Also, Check the harness on the drivers side valve cover - a wire or two may be rubbing on the valve cover and worn through the insulation.

 

Weekend is here! Hope rain goes away and is decently warm, hopefully, I will get to playing around with my multimeter and kick this SES light crap once and for all!

 

Let me get this straight. I goto the 42 pin connector, put one probe in the driver side high voltage hole, and the other probe in the holes labeled D, then one probe in the passenger high voltage hole, and the other in the holes labeled P. Basically all of it can be done from the 42 pin connector and I don't even touch the two uvch pins? Correct?

But then after I ohm those out go inspect all the wires and everything by the individual uvch connectors?

Or if I'm not right do you mind explaining it in an idiot proof way, just to make sure I'm right.

 

I ohm tested off the 42pin connector, every single injector read 4.8 ohms. It started getting dark so I came in. Should I ohm test from the 9pin now?

The cluster of wires on the 42pin that touch the valve cover were good. They left slight signs of rubbing on the valve cover in the dust, only 3 wires touched it, but none of them were wore through. Either way I wrapped the top two inches of the wire cluster that was exposed with electrical tape so that nothing happens in the future.

What do I do now?

 

The 42-pin test checks the continuity of everything from there to the injectors and back. If the ohms are good, no need to dig deeper - but it's a good idea to check all the "D" and "P" pins for continuity to ground as well. Jiggle the wires while testing to see if there are any scuffed wires touching the valve cover. Don't insert your test leads into the openings, this could potentially spread the connectors and make poor contact when the 42-pin plug is reconnected.