2003 Expedition "2.0"
Hey , hows it going, my name is Mike. I live in Las Vegas and became the owner of a 2003 Eddie Bauer this weekend; it was time to get rid of my 2009 Jeep Liberty. I had the Jeep since new but as my kids were getting bigger, it wasn't going to be comfortable for them in a couple years. Plus, we have two big dogs that barely fit in the back. I also wasn't a fan of the drivetrain performance either.

This is my second Expedition; I had a '98 Eddie Bauer back in 2003-2007. Loved it; unfortunately, we had to part ways as it became too much for me to handle in the UK streets (I'm in the Air Force.) She's still over there as a work truck for a local mechanic; towing broken cars to their shop!

Ok, about my Expo; it's an 03; manufactured in October 2002. She's got 168K miles on the motor but runs great. It has the rear DVD system, power third seats, a sun roof. When I retire, it'll be towing my hobby car east with the Mrs driving her mustang. We hope to settle in Middle America.

As it's an older car, she's got some gremlins.

First, a previous owner changed out the OEM stereo head unit with an Alpine deck. The DVD system doesn't even turn on. I have a hot wire back there but I assume that the dvd system isn't even receiving a signal to actually turn on. I've been trolling Ebay for a replacement stock unit but I'm not sure which one to get. I don't know if the car came originally with a Navigation System or just the 6 disc changer. I'd assume the changer. I haven't ripped the dashboard apart to find out what's lurking underneath.

The subwoofer sounds like it is receiving all harmonic frequencies as well; most likely, a bad install job of the head unit.

My second one lies with the cruise control. It doesn't engage. I didn't know if it was the buttons or not; nothing on the dash was lighting up. But I found the procedures for the diagnostic mode and the dashboard lit up 3 times indicating a cutout fault. I just found the fuse box and I'm going to hunt down a possible burnt out fuse but I'm going to assume that something was not rigged right at the brake pedal when/if something was changed out in the past. If that fails, I'll replace the switch.

I was wondering if anybody had an idea to help me out. Is there a way to find like a "build sheet" for the car to find out what accessories came with the car when it rolled off the assembly line? If it were a 6 disc changer, how hard would it be to cleanly install the SAT NAV system?
Here's what I found when I pulled the front of the dash off (missing both screws but I'll live) I believe that the back of the OEM had 3 big wiring harness connectors going in.

The red one is the one I believe that goes out to the Rear Entertainment System. It also has the steering wheel button converter









Am I going down the right path with the troubleshooting of the cruise control? How hard is it to change one of these switches out? Is there a special rigging process that I need to take?


Also, what WAS this? I think it used to be a vacuum line; there's some pulling and pulsating action when the vehicle is on.







It's clamped to the forward brake line.



Thanks for your help in advance.
Mike

 

Bring the VIN to the service department at the dealer and ask for the build sheet.

 

Thanks for the tip Alloro, I'll do that soon.
I fixed the cruise control, it was the disconnect switch. Quick stop to Autozone and got a replacement on the cheap!

My problem now is the EVAP system. I keep getting "Check Fuel Cap" warnings with a P0455 OR P0457 codes. I found that the rubber pipe between the fuel filler neck and tank was bleeding liquid when the car was turned on. I replaced that and the gas cap. Another Autozone product. Over time, I did notice the O-ring on the cap can slide down the shaft of the cap. Could/Would this be my problem?
I also put power onto the EVAP purge solenoid (back of the vehicle) and purge valve (engine bay) and they both complete a circuit. I know this because I used a 9V battery and a circuit tester and it lit up. However, if the purge solenoid receives power, isn't it supposed to click? I think that the solenoid is bad; it doesn't make any actuation noises. I think it's jammed open.

Any thoughts? Thanks for looking!

 

There's a label on the bottom of the B pillar, inside the drivers door. It should have a code for which audio system it was built with. For that vacuum line, if it's a 4WD, that line may be the vent line for the front 4WD hub actuators, those are vacuum controlled and the vent line is supposed to be open.

 

Certainly, anything that prevents the fuel system from sealing can be the cause of the EVAP code.

 

If it's an EB, they all came with the 6-pack CD stereo system. The 5.4L motored Expy probably has the tow package (3.73 LS axle) and factory rear entertainment DVD player. Your best bet on the audio system is to install something like a Pioneer NAV system. There is a special adapter harness available from Crutchfields to power the rear DVD player. Call them and tell 'em you have the rear DVD player when you order the NAV system and they will hook you up with all the harnesses and trim pieces you need to make a professional installation. I did all this on mine many years ago when the stock CD player croaked (they're junk by the way...). At least you already have the steering wheel control box hooked up, so you don't have to buy that. The NAV system's GPS puck can be mounted out of sight on a dashboard support shelf behind the radio and gets perfect signal reception through the plastic dash cover and windshield. So you don't have to run any cables anywhere.


-Mike







Pioneer 940BT in '03 Expy

 

Remember the days when you could just go down to the automotive section of your local department store, grab a radio and install it with nothing more than pliers, a screwdriver and a few wirenuts?

 

Oh yes. That was the days when the "communication protocols" to the engine consisted of cable linkages and pushrods and such.

 

So I'm still trying to figure out the fuel smell/release while the engine is running. The information display keeps telling me to check the fuel cap. I replaced it with the $13 one from Autozone but no luck. Went underneath the car and replaced the 1.25" soft fuel hose from the fuel tank to fuel filler neck (approx 8" piece)

The O-ring on my new filler cap is rather loose and the cap itself doesn't "click" into position. I have an OEM cap on the way, hopefully that could be the end of my problems.

However.....

I shined a light towards the back end of the fuel filling area and found this. That line with for prongs coming out of it runs into the fuel vapor canister. I'm like 99% sure this isn't right; right? Where does this line supposed to go?




I've also plugged a 9v battery into the vapor canister solenoid and didn't hear or feel any clicking noise. Am I supposed to hear or feel it actuate?
Same goes for the purge valve, no clicking sounds or feeling. I know it's only a 9v battery but I should feel something right?
**car was not running at the time of testing**
Thanks for any help!


Where does this vent line go!? I'm guessing it's not right.

 

Thank you Hamfisted on the tip for the audio, it's greatly appreciated! I found that wiring component that you were talking about on Ebay and picked one up. I just need to wire it in. I may do that today actually! Hopefully the quality of sound improves with it as well because, honestly, it's not that great! It's an Alpine receiver so I don't think it's the unit, I think it was a botched install job with a previous owner.
I did plan on getting a DVD unit for the front but if my sound improves I'll stick with this one for now.
I do wish audio was easy like the good old days but we customers are now picky and love our bells and whistles........

 

That vent line is correct. It just terminates there and it is tie-wrapped from the factory like that.


-Mike

 

How did you find the cruise control switch?

 

I think he means the brake light switch.