No Oil in Filter Housing
#1
No Oil in Filter Housing
I am the original owner with 112K on the clock. I just finished watching:
At the 2 minute mark Ron takes the oil cap off and talks about the anti-drain back valve. So, I have never seen dripping oil on my filter (yes, it is the OEM Ford filter with an Oil Guard cap that matches the OEM cap dimensionly.) Since new, the filter housing has been completely empty and oil filters themselves have appeared to be sitting in oil but not filtering. Why, no slug or contaminants on the filter. Fortunately, I have used the Oil Guard By-Pass filter system since new and changed filters every 3K and oil every 6K (T6). It takes about 5 seconds for the idiot gauge to show pressure.
There seems to be no ill effects, thus far, knock on wood, however, now that I know what it should look like I want to resolve this. I pulled the filter yesterday and the drain back valve seems to work. But the engine only needs to sit for a short while before it has drained.
I have read a number of threads on this issue but the resolution has always been tied to the HPOP, LPOP, or some other extraneous issue not related to the filter housing itself. I don't want to just throw parts at this and I am not even sure what parts I would throw anyway. Other than this, the truck runs great, temp deltas are good, plenty of power for its towing duties. I am just worried about the dry starts!
Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance for the help, gm.
At the 2 minute mark Ron takes the oil cap off and talks about the anti-drain back valve. So, I have never seen dripping oil on my filter (yes, it is the OEM Ford filter with an Oil Guard cap that matches the OEM cap dimensionly.) Since new, the filter housing has been completely empty and oil filters themselves have appeared to be sitting in oil but not filtering. Why, no slug or contaminants on the filter. Fortunately, I have used the Oil Guard By-Pass filter system since new and changed filters every 3K and oil every 6K (T6). It takes about 5 seconds for the idiot gauge to show pressure.
There seems to be no ill effects, thus far, knock on wood, however, now that I know what it should look like I want to resolve this. I pulled the filter yesterday and the drain back valve seems to work. But the engine only needs to sit for a short while before it has drained.
I have read a number of threads on this issue but the resolution has always been tied to the HPOP, LPOP, or some other extraneous issue not related to the filter housing itself. I don't want to just throw parts at this and I am not even sure what parts I would throw anyway. Other than this, the truck runs great, temp deltas are good, plenty of power for its towing duties. I am just worried about the dry starts!
Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance for the help, gm.
#3
#5
I don't think there really is a concern. With a bypass system AND running T6, your oil change intervals are too soon to ever see sludge or contamination.
Did you hold down the drain back valve and crank the engine via the starter solenoid wire (like Ron shows in the vid)? Crank it, let it fill while holding it down, and continue to hold the valve down to see if it's leaking down.
Another test to be reassured, unscrew the oil fill cap (bypass return) and with the truck running see what kind of flow you get. If it's flowing than you know it's filling the engine filter resevoir.
Did you hold down the drain back valve and crank the engine via the starter solenoid wire (like Ron shows in the vid)? Crank it, let it fill while holding it down, and continue to hold the valve down to see if it's leaking down.
Another test to be reassured, unscrew the oil fill cap (bypass return) and with the truck running see what kind of flow you get. If it's flowing than you know it's filling the engine filter resevoir.
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CARCRUSHER
Excursion - King of SUVs
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11-04-2009 08:19 AM