Rear Pad Install 2007 E150
#1
Rear Pad Install 2007 E150
First time changing out rear pads on this, or any vehicle for that matter.
These appear a bit different from the fronts, having removed the Caliper bolts
It doesn't want to come loose.
Couldn't find any links to flicks or tutorials on these everything is on rear
drums and shoes.
These appear a bit different from the fronts, having removed the Caliper bolts
It doesn't want to come loose.
Couldn't find any links to flicks or tutorials on these everything is on rear
drums and shoes.
#3
Thanks tabijan,
This guy is doing the whole 9 yards, and appears to just graze over the parts that I'm working with. Snap in a pad here snap in one there?
I could use a video just to see where things snap.
The front caliper only required pulling the two caliper bolts to get the pads out, the rear has the e-brake assembly, and I'm wondering if those bolts need to come out as well.
His seem a bit different but similar.
Rear rotor assembly
This guy is doing the whole 9 yards, and appears to just graze over the parts that I'm working with. Snap in a pad here snap in one there?
I could use a video just to see where things snap.
The front caliper only required pulling the two caliper bolts to get the pads out, the rear has the e-brake assembly, and I'm wondering if those bolts need to come out as well.
His seem a bit different but similar.
Rear rotor assembly
#4
Not sure where you are at with this job, but serving suggestion:
BEFORE you remove the pads, bleed the rear brakes. Fluid in the calipers may be contaminated--if so, you'll see it when you bleed them. Add only enough fluid to keep the master from going dry--don't fill it all the way up.
When you install the new pads, you will have to push the pistons back into the calipers, forcing fluid back into the master.
Once you are done, you can bleed them just a little "to be sure" and then fill the master.
BEFORE you remove the pads, bleed the rear brakes. Fluid in the calipers may be contaminated--if so, you'll see it when you bleed them. Add only enough fluid to keep the master from going dry--don't fill it all the way up.
When you install the new pads, you will have to push the pistons back into the calipers, forcing fluid back into the master.
Once you are done, you can bleed them just a little "to be sure" and then fill the master.
#5
Not sure where you are at with this job, but serving suggestion:
BEFORE you remove the pads, bleed the rear brakes. Fluid in the calipers may be contaminated--if so, you'll see it when you bleed them. Add only enough fluid to keep the master from going dry--don't fill it all the way up.
BEFORE you remove the pads, bleed the rear brakes. Fluid in the calipers may be contaminated--if so, you'll see it when you bleed them. Add only enough fluid to keep the master from going dry--don't fill it all the way up.
Ok, I have some brake fluid, and easy enough done.
By "contaminated" I assume this is the fluid that stays right near the caliper, getting forced back and forth actuating the brake pads to the rotor?
I haven't done much yet, waiting to see if anything else gets posted by morning, then I'll probably go pick up a Chiltons. Should have already bought one.
Thanks!
#6
Brake fluid attracts water from the atmosphere. Any place in the system where there is a seal can be a point where water gets in. Even in tiny amounts, over time you get contamination. You'll see right away if the fluid is discolored or rust colored. Disc brakes don't do this as bad as drum brakes...drum brakes you should bleed every year, especially in wet country.
Reminds me, I should go do that.....
Reminds me, I should go do that.....
#7
Brake fluid attracts water from the atmosphere. Any place in the system where there is a seal can be a point where water gets in. Even in tiny amounts, over time you get contamination. You'll see right away if the fluid is discolored or rust colored. Disc brakes don't do this as bad as drum brakes...drum brakes you should bleed every year, especially in wet country.
Reminds me, I should go do that.....
Reminds me, I should go do that.....
Makes sense and I'll do that when I'm prepared to finish the rear set.
I slapped the tires back on and will reattempt when I round up some info.
There's metal tabs on the bottom that restrict caliper removal and consequently pad removal.
I don't want to bend or tweak them as the new bendix pads don't provide replacement clips.
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#8
Brake fluid attracts water from the atmosphere. Any place in the system where there is a seal can be a point where water gets in. Even in tiny amounts, over time you get contamination. You'll see right away if the fluid is discolored or rust colored. Disc brakes don't do this as bad as drum brakes...drum brakes you should bleed every year, especially in wet country.
Reminds me, I should go do that.....
Reminds me, I should go do that.....
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dziwei
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
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04-13-2019 12:13 PM