I have been going threw a bunch of crap with this ford 302 trying to get it running again.

1989 f150 302 efi.

brand new headgaskets, arp head bolts, intake gaskets, tps, distributor, icm, plugs, wires, coil, thermostat, fuel pressure regulator, new vaccum lines, i have no idea where to go from here.

timing is dead on, great fuel pressure, great oil pressure, has sparks, injectors are working properly but will not fire up. will not ever try to start. just cranks


***update has fuel leak at rear off the engine and cant find it?, prime the key and it drips off the trans. checked lines and fuel rail and can not locate it

 

Try locating the fuel pressure regulator and check for leaks.

"FPR is located at the back of the motor on the drivers side on top of the fuel rail."

Quoted from Conanski

 

Just a few thoughts...

How long has it been sitting? Cats not clogged and nothing built a home inside the intake or exhaust?

You did pull the spout when you checked timing, right?

Mess with the valve timing any?

What firing order did you use?

Is that really a NEW distributor or is it rebuilt?

How did you test the injectors? Are the plugs wet after trying to start it?

 

Definitely check the plugs. Just because you know the injectors are "firing" doesn't mean fuel is going through them.

 

Truck was running a month ago and started acting up and was not running right, Had coolant an oil leak so i replaced head gaskets ect...

Truck is not running so timing was done at tdc on compression stroke when distributor was installed.

Both manifolds were broke in half and had no cats or mufflers, Replaced with headers so i know its clear on open headers.

i used the firing order for 1989 ford 302 non high output motor (same as previous firing order)

distributor is brand new not reman or refubished

 

Checked fpr no leaks also just replaced it

 

Any other ideas? It is getting fuel, it is getting spark. i checked the distributor position at tdc again. And it way off cyl 1. I think i may have put it in at the wrong position when i dropped it in or the timing chain is slipping and not in sync with my valves. I turn the crank and distributor is slightly delayed to turn. Not much but enough for me to replace it.

Should there be any play in the timing chain to delay it?

Truck has 130k and has not had oil change in about 8 years, and coolant / oil leak for around the same. So if those problems were not taken care of by the previous owner then i doubt the timing chain was ever replaced.

Tommorow the timing chain will be replaced and this truck better run. If not this old ford can be parked and left to rot in my backyard. I have more money in this engine than i paid for the truck.

 

I believe that more 3/8ths of inch forward or back is due for a timing chain.

Also, slow to yanking off the water pump/timing chain cover or it will turn into a nightmare if you break the 2 outermost bolts off in the block and I just went through 2 blocks with same 2 corroded bolts and lots of MAPP gas and Kroil penetrating oil.

And as far as more money put into repairs than what you paid for it, everyone puts a different price on what they think is reliable and running. I bought my last truck for $650. In order to get it running again, I'm already far over the $500 mark and climbing. My daily driver was bought for $750 and I have over $3000 in it now. I love it and its me.

 

Check the compression on all the cylinders before going into the timing chain.

 

all my cylinders are around 145-160. I took off the timing chain today and it moves about an inch or so both directions, i was hoping for a skipped tooth on the chain but the timing marks still align on tdc.

Could this cause the truck not to start? i have advanced and retarded my distributor before i removed this and no start. I would thing even with it being loose it would still start but run rough with the distributor turned.

all fuel injectors are spraying, all spark plugs are firing. fuel pressure tested fine.

Is there anything else that could keep this truck from running? It has fuel, spark, compression, im starting to be at a loss and never going to get this truck running

 

If the chain is that loose it needs replacing. If it did run and the chain breaks while running, then you could ruin the much if the engine.

 

i took the chain and gears off and installed new. but i still dont think that was the problem

 

That is good compression. Does it pop or do anything?

 

When I picked up my latest truck I was stumped for an evening with it not starting after warmed up. Had fuel,fire and compression. Found a bent pin on the ECT sensor. You won't have the same problem but it could be something that simple. Especially after tearing it all apart.

 

Are you 100% sure the distributor is on #1 cylinder on the compression stroke and not 180° off and on #1 on the exhaust stroke?