@cheezit

Early '04 6.0L, long crank on cold start, started happening about 4 months ago. Just in time to make our trip to Tahoe less than exciting...

Video:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4sauykz3rg...84338.mp4?dl=0

New 6-phase BulletProofDiesel FICM
New Injectors
New Turbo
BANKS tuner bypassed so completely stock tune
ECU & FICM flashed 2 months ago with most current OEM tune (that sucks *** but eliminates the EBP sensor which was failing... again...).

Looks like it's taking too long to build pressure which makes me think it's definitely an HPOP imminent failure...

Thoughts?

 

Mine went out today. I had no warning though, just lost pressure and would not start. Its in the shop now and its not a cheap fix.

 

Yeah, I'm guessing $1000 for a DieselSite billet HPOP and $2000 in labor. Anyone have suggestions on what else to upgrade while in there?

 

Give me until Tuesday and I'll let you know everything I did. I'm doing another oil cooler for sure since mine has 60k since being changed, a new turbo drain pipe, new ipr but that may be included with the hpop, new t-stat, new oil pressure switch, blue spring upgrade on the fuel pump, complete coolant flush, new oil and filter, and I think that's it.

 

I'll be looking for your update on Tuesday! Fortunately, I still have my old beater Dodge as a backup...

 

Mine is a late '04 so there are some differences. Also, it's probably going to cost me a lot more because I'm going with all new Ford parts and doing the oil cooler again. He said about $3300 total. I hope that's including the tow, but probably not. I hope this is the last trip to the shop for quite some time. Once this is done, I have replaced and repaired ALL the stuff that is supposed to be problematic with the 6.0. No matter how much it is , it won't add up to more than about 5 or 6 payments on a new truck, at least that's what I keep telling myself.

 

Hmmmm...... I'd don't know about your bank acc, but mine says no (along with the wife) but everytime I drive a 6.7 it spoils me really badly

 

If I didn't have my 5th wheel I wouldn't be putting another penny into this truck. I would let it sit in the driveway until I could sell it for what I could get for it. But then I would still have to spend money on something else to drive. An F150 as nice as my 350 would probably cost more that the 350 is worth. It's really a no win situation once you get into one of these things. Plus when I get it back I still have to put on new rear shocks, sway bar end links, and I wanted an in-dash radio with nav, but that's out now.

 

Your Dropbox video link isn't working

 

Looks like Dropbox got mad at all the downloads!

Try this one:

 

Someone with more knowledge than me will probably add to this or correct me. If you have gauges, you should see at least 500psi on the hpop to start the truck, then the psi should increase as the throttle increases. You should also have a % in the ipr gauge. That should read around 24% at idle. If it is going to 84ish then the hpop isn't working?? Mine died with no warning and would only start and idle. It would not rev up like yours.

 

I do have gauges, but didn't have them in the video. I'll give it another test and check the IPR % and HPOP pressure. Hopefully it's just the drain back seal on the hpop and not the hpop itself. If so, then I can move on and just make sure I don't park nose up anymore!

 

What is the ICP at start up, need 500 min. Pull the connector and see what happens, it will default to 500 and allow the start if pressure is good. Before replacing the HPOP, check the IPR screen, maybe its plugged up?

 

I like that idea a lot better!

 

Mine was finished yesterday but when he test drove it he found the oil filter housing leaking so that was fixed today and I picked it up. Here's what I ended up with. Ford HPOP, Ford oil cooler, new oil filter cap, t-stat, oil pressure switch, intake gaskets, updated turbo drain tube, fuel pressure reg. upgrade kit (blue spring?), IPR valve, EGR cooler o-ring kit, HPOP branch tube, oil filter housing, rear Racho shocks. Along with all that we changed to Rotella 15W-40 and Rotella ELC coolant. I didn't have the gauges with me but he said on the shake down my oil was within 2 degrees of the coolant.