First of all, go ahead and laugh, I have it coming!. My doors were both loose and would rattle as if they weren't shut good on my 1995 F250 supercab. I stopped by Autozone and picked up new door striker bushings after researching some older posts on the same subject. I put the drivers side on after doing a test latch with the bushing and a 1/2" bolt, and it worked fine, latched to both notches, and unlatched. I put the striker back in it's original position, then lowered it a bit to center it for the door, gave it a little slam and it latched, but too far in. Now it won't unlatch, even with pushing in with a hydraulic jack to relieve pressure on the latch. Any ideas?

 

So both doors are like this?

Have you tried lifting the door up and pulling out?

Also not sure how u are going to open it with the jack pushing on it.

Only thing I could think of is getting on the inside and push out, or cut the door open, because it's probably too tall to jump in like the Duke boys😆

 

Yeah try pushing up on it then opening it.

 

Maybe you accidentally locked the doors.

 

For his sake I hope that's the case but that would be such a "blonde" move!!

And I have to ask, since you came up with that, is your wife blonde?

 

First wife was, second was a redhead. Been shacking up with a brunette the last few years.

 

Doors are not locked. both doors now are a little in from flush with the body. I used the hydraulic jack mentioned in original post to push in to relieve pressure on the latch, pulled up on the inside handle and released the jack. I'm pretty sure it's just latched so tight the pressure on the latch has it bound up. I'm hoping not to have to cut off the inside door panel to get to it. Thinking about painting it orange with an "01" on the sides because the only way in and out is thru the window

 

Wow, that's a tough one. Better be careful yanking on that inside handle though. The outside handle would be my choice since it's a linkage rod and not a $150.00 POS cable/control attached to an area prone to breakage on the inner door.

 

simultaneously give it the linebacker's shoulder and hit the button. do it a bunch of times, timing has to be perfect. just gotta beast it.

 

Is the head of the striker bolt accessible from the inside of the door? The seats would have to come and then the inside door cover...just a thought.

 

I got both doors opened by giving them a hard shoulder from the inside. I took off the new bushings and everything is back to working ok. Does anyone know the correct outside diameter for the bushings. The ones I got at Autozone are 3/4". I'm guessing the ones I need are probably closer to 5/8". Any good info on this?

 

I took a caliper to mine ('93), and they're .680".

 

Thanks for the measurement. I'll look for bushings that OD. I can drill out for the 1/2" ID if necessary. Mike

 

I recently replaced the strikers on my new 94. I had a similar issue with the doors being hard to open and sticking. We sanded down the new nylon bushings quite a bit to make them work smoothly.

I think Ford changed something in 95. My friend came over an I looked at the door latch on his 96 and its shaped a bit more rounded and less angular. I didn't have this problem on my old 95 either.

I know that 95-96 doors have a styling detail at the bottom that 94 on back don't have. They could have changed other things at that time as well.

 

Nope. Same door striker from 80-97