Engine acts like I'm running on 5 cylinders!
#1
Engine acts like I'm running on 5 cylinders!
Hello all! I am new here and could really use some serious help! I have an 2002 f250 Lariat 2wd with 250k, I have an early model Edge programmer that will be upgraded soon. A couple of days ago my check engine light came on and the truck started running like it only had 5 cylinders and could only go 20mph max. I pulled over and turned it off waited for about 10 min. Then I restared it and it ran fine, but the check engine light stayed on. 5 miles later, same thing happened again, luckily I was close to the house and made it home. Next day it started up and drove fine all day, but it was running rough at idle. Day after that I started it up and it immediately started like it was on 5 cylinders. Any and all suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Skyrag.
#2
#3
#4
Does that mean the main engine wiring harness too, or can you just splice in pigtails for the outside harness connector?
I understand where you're coming from Cody, but it's not like everything instantly corrodes the second the plug comes loose. If there are burnt or corroded pins or connectors, it's time to start changing parts, but sometimes you can just plug it back in.
#6
Just the gaskets or the UVCH harness too? I mean if you're worried about a little corrosion on a connector, why not replace it all?
Does that mean the main engine wiring harness too, or can you just splice in pigtails for the outside harness connector?
I understand where you're coming from Cody, but it's not like everything instantly corrodes the second the plug comes loose. If there are burnt or corroded pins or connectors, it's time to start changing parts, but sometimes you can just plug it back in.
Does that mean the main engine wiring harness too, or can you just splice in pigtails for the outside harness connector?
I understand where you're coming from Cody, but it's not like everything instantly corrodes the second the plug comes loose. If there are burnt or corroded pins or connectors, it's time to start changing parts, but sometimes you can just plug it back in.
I'm not talking about corrosion. I'm talking about the erosion and burning that occurs on the terminals themselves called "fretting" that leads to resistance. Resistance equals heat. Heat equals melted connectors.
https://www.google.com/search?q=elec...w=1440&bih=751
As for the external connectors, they seem to be less of a problem since gravity isn't really conducive to their self-extraction but if the external one is the problem then by all means it should get replaced too.
#7
Don't let these dudes scare you outta this forum.
You say it's running...........big plus. If you can get it running again and can walk around and pop the hood.............. Start carefully and with a clear head, while it's running..., wiggle every loom, if all of a sudden...........it flattens out. I say this because I was looking at injectors on my drivers side and it turned out to be electrical, not mechanical. (In my case 2 bad pin connections) If you hear things pick up a bit, log where you wiggled, but keep up the search.
I was told long ago from a mechanic.............All Mechanics love they're probes but not a one covers they're (***) hole.
If you really think you have a bank down. Drop the valve covers and disconnect one bank inside the cover at the UVC and you'll figure out which side of town you live on.
Let us know?!
Denny
You say it's running...........big plus. If you can get it running again and can walk around and pop the hood.............. Start carefully and with a clear head, while it's running..., wiggle every loom, if all of a sudden...........it flattens out. I say this because I was looking at injectors on my drivers side and it turned out to be electrical, not mechanical. (In my case 2 bad pin connections) If you hear things pick up a bit, log where you wiggled, but keep up the search.
I was told long ago from a mechanic.............All Mechanics love they're probes but not a one covers they're (***) hole.
If you really think you have a bank down. Drop the valve covers and disconnect one bank inside the cover at the UVC and you'll figure out which side of town you live on.
Let us know?!
Denny
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#10
Harness too.
I'm not talking about corrosion. I'm talking about the erosion and burning that occurs on the terminals themselves called "fretting" that leads to resistance. Resistance equals heat. Heat equals melted connectors.
https://www.google.com/search?q=elec...w=1440&bih=751
As for the external connectors, they seem to be less of a problem since gravity isn't really conducive to their self-extraction but if the external one is the problem then by all means it should get replaced too.
I'm not talking about corrosion. I'm talking about the erosion and burning that occurs on the terminals themselves called "fretting" that leads to resistance. Resistance equals heat. Heat equals melted connectors.
https://www.google.com/search?q=elec...w=1440&bih=751
As for the external connectors, they seem to be less of a problem since gravity isn't really conducive to their self-extraction but if the external one is the problem then by all means it should get replaced too.
I'm in what most would consider North Texas, so he's probably a couple of hours or more South of me. Unfortunately my fence isn't that big.
#11
#14
lol, I live north of Austin so I'm a couple of degrees warmer. I will let y'all know what I find. Thanks again everyone!
#15
Skyrag, since nobody has mentioned it yet, there are retailers who support this forum, such as Clay at Riffraff Diesel. These guys know our trucks, they have aftermarket "performance" goodies, and they have the OEM stuff that needs to stay OEM (sensors, etc). And their OEM stuff, like the valve cover gaskets and harnesses you may be needing in your near future, is WAY cheaper than from a Ford dealer. Can't recommend Clay enough.
Last edited by montanasteve; 02-16-2015 at 03:55 PM. Reason: Content