02 F250 7.3 Crank, No StartSometimes it starts, but sometimes it cranks and cranks and cranks but doesn’t start.
It WAS running fine if it started, no shimmer, no shutter, no lack of power, nothing; but this morning it died on me on my way home from work. It lost power then coasted (check engine light came on), then died. It started right back up and acted fine, running smoothly. About 15 minutes later, all at highway speeds, it lost acceleration, then died again. Couldn’t get it started back. Had it towed to the house. It started again later. I ran it for a while, went out and pushed the throttle while it was idling in the driveway and it died. Couldn’t get it started for several hours, until then…. I could. Many details left out, long story short: Cranks fine but doesn’t start…… sometimes. Runs perfectly until it loses power and dies. Might restart, might not.
So far: I’ve replaced the CPS with a new, gray, one; unplugged the IPS (it DOES have oil in the connector)and tried to start it, no help; cleaned the battery terminals; the oil in the HPOP seems to be adequate, it’s right below the screw threads; fuel pump seems to be working fine; no bare wires that I can see; oil pressure seems fine on the gauge; oil level is fine; batteries aren’t new but have plenty of juice to start it even when they are run down from trying; fuel is at 2/3 of a tank so don’t have a clogged screen issue. PLEASE HELP!

 

Well as far as the fuel pick up screens go they could be clogged no matter how full the tank is. The 1/4 tank issue is if the pick up foot has fallen off. Have you checked the fuel filter?

 

1. Find a Scan Tool that can retrieve codes and monitor PIDs.

2. Retrieve Codes

3. Check the Fuel Pressure @ the fuel bowl test port: Min 40-80 PSIG KOEO, Under Load (Cranking / WOT) = >42 PSIG.

4. Monitor PIDS (While Cranking):

a. IPR
b. IPR Duty Cycle
c. ICP Voltage (min: 0.25 VDC KOEO)
d. ICP
e. System Voltage = > 10.5 VDC

5. Check condition of Fuel Filter and Air Filter.

6. Post results.

We'll get you going in the right direction.

 

Okay, that sounds great. Now just one little thing... where do I find a scan tool that will do that? Any suggestions on that one. And no, I hadn't suspected the fuel filter, I changed it out not too long ago, and my air filter is good for sure. Now I need to just track down all the tools and diagnosis equipment which I'm sure will be a big enough ordeal in it's self. I guess I'm gonna have to eat this elephant one bite at a time.

 

A good scan tool is Auto Enginuity, There are others as well. As for access to stuff, Clay at Riff Raff Diesel has a lot of what you will need at the best prices as well.

 

ScubaTX,
Where in Tx are you. It'a big state but there are quite a few folks who have scan tools that are usually ready to help.

You really need to monitor pressures and voltages while cranking to narrow this down. You could spend hundreds if not thousands just throwing parts at it before getting the right one. With a scanner you can see what's wrong.

 

I'm in the Austin-San Antonio area. I guess I need some hard core diagnosis run, huh? I was suspecting the ICP or the IPR, but like y'all said, I'd like to know first before I just start buying parts for it.

 

You've got some trouble codes in there for sure. You mentioned the check engine light coming on when it died once - there's a code in there from that. Just need a scanner to see what it is.

 

looks like 3 people in the area. see if you can open this link
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...Y.k-5F24-dUkj8

see who's closest and we'll see if they can help.

do you have an android phone?

 

is the tin nut on the ipr tight? connector look ok?

 

id say its worth a shot to replace that fuel filter again just to know for sure that it isnt the problem.. or at least open it up and look at it.

 

GMP, I do have an Android. I looked at that map in the link and none of them are really close enough for me to get to, I fear. It died on me twice on my normally 34 minute drive home from work. All of them are further than that. That's a cool tool, though. The tin nut on the ipr SEEMED tight but I don't know that I would know how to tell if it wasn't... All the connections look good except maybe maybe maybe maybe the wires from the connector in the back of the fuel bowl. They seem soft-ish and a little shiny/wet right as they enter the connector.
I'm going to replace my fuel filter today.
I'm about to head up to a diesel shop in town to see if they can read my codes.

 

Make sure they give you the engine trouble code #, for example P1211.

Also, where did u buy the grey CPS sensor? Aftermarket ones have been known to have problems.

2nd , have you driven it with the ICP sensor unplugged?

 

So I went and had it scanned this morning. It was starting up everytime we tried at the shop, so we couldn't check the PIDs when cranking sadly. When he pulled up the codes, it looked like it was just codes from when I had the ICP unplugged and tried to start it. The diesel shop suggested I try a trick to maybe help diagnose the IPR for when it does it again (which it freaking did as soon as I left there).




Much like unplugging the ICP can tell you if that's your problem. He suggested to pour cool water on the IPR when it's not starting. I did that when it stranded me at Home Depot after I left the diesel shop. It started right up with the cool water trick.


ASSUMING I replace the IPR, is there any oil I need to refill into the HPOP reservoir? Is it just the engine oil? Do I need to get a special type or amount? Whats the deal with that?


Oh, and Buffalo, the cps came from the dealership.

 

It is just engine oil. If you are reasonably quick when you pull the old one out and put the new one in you'll be fine. Put a rag in the valley to catch what little comes out if you want.