Thanks for the replies everyone. I too was thinking about the oil pump shaft not being in correctly and now its a boat anchor. Hydrolocked was wishful thinking.

 

Still say buy it. Pluck the motor out, junk the crummy smog heads, cam, intake, and take the block to a machine shop to be looked at. If they can save the block then start saving for some goodies to top off your now-rebuilt short block.

Hell I would even go to the junkyard and buy a motor just to drop in there and drive it while working on bringing the dead one back to life.

Of course that's just me...

 

I definitely am buying it. I do believe that they didn't get the oil pump shaft in, and locked it. I found a known, good 351 engine, so I'm already good for a swap if needed. But my plans are to drive it once I get the small quirks and etc. fixed and replaced if needed.

 

Ok, so I have my new, used project truck.

Just a quick question before I get waist deep in it...

I have eliminated oil pump shaft and hydrolocked. No metal in oil. My question is how much torque can I use to break the crank loose with a breaker bar? Go easy on me for that question. I have penetrating oil, diesel, atf mixed together in all cylinders. Will I risk damage to the trans if using a breaker bar? Trans is in neutral too. I checked the flexplate and it appears ok. Torque converter nuts appear tight and haven't wedged up in the bellhousing. Even if it breaks loose, I expect to replace the timing chain. Oh, and the cam gear on the distributor and camshaft look good. No wear.

I apologize for what seems like a stupid question. I'm a complete underdog when it comes to breathing new life into an engine that may have been abused.

Also, do I risk damage to the camshaft if I really get to yanking on this?

 

Why use a breaker bar to get it free you don't want to use it even if you replace timing chain and all that you need to tear it apart get the cylinders honed possibly bored depending on damage new pistons and definitely new rings

 

With the trans in neutral turning the engine won't do anything to the trans (unless the trans really isn't in neutral and somehow it's screwed up which is keeping your engine from turning, but in that case you wouldn't need to worry about wrecking the trans anyway).

Same with the cam. If it's not already screwed up you shouldn't screw it up by forcing the engine to turn.

 

Ok, so lots of cranking on the crank in both directions, definitely doesn't appear to budge.

Next question now. Since I cant turn the crank, that means I can't turn the flexplate in order to remove the nuts holding the converter on. Pulling the trans isn't the answer. Can the converter slide out when I pull the engine, without damage?

Only other option I see is to drop the oil pan and look for the cause, such as main bearing(s), rod, or piston siezed in bore. Maybe by loosening as much internally, I can get the crank to turn.

 

I would take the heads off to check the cylinders if they're scored too bad your gonna want a new block dropping the pan is a good idea to check out the bottom end with doing all of that you'll figure out what's seized and free it up then rotate to get the converter unbolted

 

I'll get to pulling the heads.. Next is oil pan.

I'll update with what I find.

 

There's nothing holding the torque converter on the front of the trans, so pulling the trans STRAIGHT back wouldn't damage anything as the converter slid off.

However I'm not sure how tolerant it would be of misalignment. If (when, really) you twisted the trans a little before the torque converter was free it would bind things up. My guess is that the torque converter would be the weak link and you wouldn't do any damage to the trans (as long as you were reasonably careful). But that's just a guess.

 

Even if the trans wasn't in neutral it will still freewheel. The clutch packs can't engage unless the engine is running to provide hydraulic pressure.

You definitely can pull the trans the way you're thinking of, just make sure to pull it straight back off the converter so you don't tear up the seal.

Sounds like that motor's junk but it wouldn't hurt to pull the heads and eyeball the insides as was mentioned before...

 

Thanks for the advice and suggestions gents. Good to know what I was thinking would work. Now, just got to dive into this!

I'll keep this updated as I get it apart.

 

DO NOT tow a 4x4 truck with driveshafts still in over 20 or miles. I won't go into the long version of how i warned a guy of this before he almost got his family killed when the transfer case melted into pieces(yes, even though it was in Nuetral). DON'T do it. Crossy

 

And this applies to removing a transmission from a frozen engine how???

 

I sure this has to do with post #1 of this thread and towing this truck home from 50 miles away.