Ok ill be dropping the oil pan in chassis by raising the engine 6 inches or so before the turbo hits the top of the bay with the trans connected. My main concern is getting the pan mating surfaces clean. I have 2 cans or carb cleaner and a wire brush to remove grease and oil. The oil has been draining for 2 days hoping the oil will be all drained and less of a chance to get on the sealer when re installing. I already have the ford brand sealer needed. Do you think this method will get it clean enough? And ill be posting photos of the connecting rods cylinder walls and cam shaft to see if yall think everything is wearing properly.

 

No, it will not.
If you are willing to put yourself, and everybody else on the road at risk by the possibility of failure...
You should be willing to do the job the right way.

Pull the engine.
Flip it upside down on a stand.
Take the opportunity to go over it and attend to anything it needs while its easy to work on.

Let me put it another way...
From a legal point of view...

Say your tooling down a 2 lane highway at 70mph and hit a bump just right that breaks a crossmember weld and shifts your steering alignment just enough that you cant compensate before swinging into the other lane, striking say... my wife, who tends to trapse across the country doing guest spots at tattoo studios and following punk bands in her retired cop car. When the accident investigation yields evidence of that structural modification, specifically warned against by the manufacturer... has caused the accident... i would do everything in my power to ensure you spend as much time in a cell as possibly allowed by law and take everything you own in the civil suit.

Is it really the easy way young padawan?

 

So you are a lawyer?

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Huh? I know there was a cut the cross member thread recently but this doesn't look like it

 

Im a machinist, programmer, welder, mechanic, and when i cant find those types of work i am a signal engineer.

I pay for legal work.

The steel used in the frames of these trucks do not like changes to the temper.
Commercially modified frames are covered by the insurance carrier of the shop that makes such modifications to frames like welding fabricated gooseneck support to the frame rails. That commercial insurance package would compensate me for loss in the event of a modification failure cause said loss if said modification were performed by insured labor.

In the ops case... he will carry all liability for the modification.
Unless of course he is the proprietor of an insured establishment for making such modifications. But I would think an establishment with those capabilities would be capable of performing the job as per the manufacturer prescribed procedure.

 

The OP said nothing of cutting the cross member. He is merely lifting the motor 6 inches in order to drop the pan enough to reseal it.

 

Christof13T,could have sugar coated it a little bit more,but you are liable for your own modifications.Brakes, suspension,steering, I would think would be towards the top of the list of risks.

 

Chris, put down the pot of coffee and step away from the keyboard...




When you settle down and come back, close all but one tab. multi tasking is not your friend on caffine.....

 

Why are you going to do this? To answer your question, yes it is physically possible to jack the engine up just enough to lower the oil pan and re-seal it. I don't think you have 6" to jack it up, but you've got a couple of inches. Unless you're going to disconnect the transmission, even removing the turbo won't allow you to raise the engine 6".
He didn't say he was cutting the cross member.

 

THIS IS NOT THE "CUT THE CROSS MEMBER THREAD" edit... this was yelled with tongue in cheek

 

Ok,back off on the Caffine

 

So it is possible to pull the pan with the motor in the truck, there's a little more to it than jacking the motor up though. Things to remove would be the transmission, fan shroud & intake snorkel.

Use 2 floor jacks to control the angle of the motor, lift the front more than the rear and secure the motor with blocks under the motor mount plates keeping the front high angle. Unbolt the pan and drop it to the subframe, unbolt the oil pickup tube and oil dipstick and walah....the pan comes out.

This was easier for me due to the amount of lift on my truck and 37" tires. I was practically able to sit up under the motor and do all the prep work. This is only the way I did it, it may not work for everyone but it worked for me pretty easily. I used a new pan and moroso gasket, leak free so far

 

Yeah... been working the kurig thing a little hard today.

My mind created the sentence containing the crossmember cut lol.
I had to go back and re-read the op's post lol.

I still gotta stick to my guns tho... doing reseal procedure in chassis is just asking for failure.
It takes less than a drop of oil running down the inside of the crankcase and coming into contact with the grey goo to compromise the seal. The effect is pretty much immediate and irreversible. Once the seal is contaminated you have to scrape it all off and start over.

Just pull the motor. Do it once the right way and never worry about it again.


*having seen the evidence of full caffination being reached, Christof pours the rest of the coffee into the compost heap*

 

Contaminating the seal was heavily on my mind. Just like painting a car the key to it is in the prep work. I spent 2 evenings cleaning the block and surrounding area. I went through an entire plastic tub of those mechanics hand cleaning towels with the scrubby stuff in em. Those little towels worked awesome in cutting through the gime on the chassis and engine block.

The only RIGHT way to do this is to pull the motor and that's what I recommend

Here's a quick picture of the new pan & moroso gasket.



I've got about 5 months & 1k miles on it. So far so good!

 

So your are not a lawyer and any opinion you have is that of a common man with no degree to back it up then.

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