At least it light out now and we can shoot up a signal flair for you.


Also lets see if we can get a window seat so we can watch the little metal birds.
BTW there are a few larger one at Thun also.

Sean

 

Good morning Washington!

 

I seem to have found the gaskets that will work for my engine and intake. A part number derived from the edelbrock website. It has the valley pan and all. I'm picking on up in the morning along with ground straps.

 

Was a long weekend, two 10hr days of pressure washing, one large 2 story house, 2 2 story condos, an ornate/large entryway and a Boat House.

Also booked out for the next few weekends.

Sunday I lost the Alt belt off my truck on the way to the first condo, then my high pressure hose blew, was all about "Takes money to make money", only $20 profit Sunday but better than nothing.

 

And now you've got a new belt and hose. Progress! I've purchased the gasket set and ground cables for my truck. In the morning when I go home I'll probably have the intake off and start the clean up relatively quickly. I need to buy rags, all mine have oil and grime on them.

I don't have a vacuum gauge for tuning, I forgot to grab one. But, when I get the intake back on, I'll have to let the RTV set for a few hours, I can use that time to go get the gauge. I'd like to learn to use it efficiently so I can get better at tuning. I can get my vehicles to run, just nor very well.

 

While you cleaning around the intake ports some blue painters tape
can help to keep the crap from falling in. I know it won't help you
right now but I now have an extra small shop vac. The larger Sears
one is going to John. But if you want to talk I would be happy to listen.

RedNeck sneaky way to find an intake leak. Propane torch and snuff the
flame. Set it on low and go around all the places you think might be leaking.
When you find one the RPM will go up and sometimes the idle smooths out.
You don't need a bunch just a little will do the trick.

Sean

 

I've got a small shop vac that you can carry around. I used it last time. At Sams we sell a large bag of shop rags that I like to buy. I just stuff rags down into each port till everything is sparkly clean.

 

If the happen to be the red ones. DO NOT WASH WITH ANYTHING ELSE.
The first wash should be in hot water to help set the dye. It has a habit
of not being color fast and leaves the fabric. I have some very nice "Pink" white towels.
I don't count them as safe till after about the 5th wash or a bit more.


Sean

 

Only ever wash shop rags at a laundry mat, unless you want to kill your washing machine...

Buying a $110 High Pressure hose for the pressure washer REALLY ate into the profit for the day. But it is a higher quality, longer length and larger diameter than the one that blew so I won't complain too much.

Redneck way? Propane is the Harley Tech method for Intake Leaks, their fancy tool is a propane bottle with a small regulator, 3' flex hose and a 1/16" metal tube for finding/pinpointing leaks.

 

On my VW bug I used to use a handheld plumbing torch with a snuffed flame.
Silly single port engines used to use a crush washer to seal the intake to the
port on the head. Sometime they would run like a pig. You take the propane and
blow it around and if it can back to smooth you know what to fix.


Sean

 

Never was a fan of those red shop rags. Seem to leave quite a bit of lint on everything. Now I just use the Scott's shop towels. I do have some oil mats from Tacoma screw that are almost gone. When they are I will be purchasing the pig mats.

 

For rags I usually either use the blue paper towels or the yellow "polishing cloths" sold at Costco.

I use to fix VWs all the time... with a car crusher!

 

Those costco micro fiber towels are decent and cheap.

 

In the end, I forgot to get rags.. Needless to say, I owe my mom a few rolls of paper towels .

I cleaned up all the crap I left behind, that's the last time I try to use RTV on everything to seal it. I feel mor confident about this valley pan and the way it fit. So far I snugged the bolts and I'm letting the new RTV cure. When I get home I'll torque them to spec and see about starting it. It went relatively well in the end, but I'm still a bit worried. I really want this to work.

 

OOPS
Unless the instructions say to let cure before torquing you are going to leak again.
That stuff is squishy and will give you a false torque.

BTW that stuff will setup without any air once it has started to skin over in
about 15 minutes or so. But don't wait too long. Better to stick on when wet
and torque it right away than to wait.


Sean