2002 Excursion.

It started with a glow plug problem (P0677 Cylinder 7 Glow Plug Circuit), the a few days later (P1275 Cyll #5 High To Low Side Open) and terrible running.

I tested at the 42 pin connector and all seemed good except #5.

Tested at the valve cover and it seemed there were 2 open circuits (I know that doesn't make sense). It was the 2 closest to the rear that were open. My test was from middle pin to the 4 surrounding pins. It's possible that the tests are bad. I haven't looked up which 2 injectors that corresponds to yet either.

I was working on getting the valve cover off, trying to get the inner fender liner out (looking for advice on that too...) when I noticed the coolant level was low. The oil level seemed fine.

So, what does this new discovery mean for me diagnosing my problems?

Should I continue with tracking down the injector/glow plug or does this missing coolant mean I should investigate that first?

Here's the current coolant level:




[edit]
Adding some of the stuff learned in this thread to the beginning - hopefully it will help ....

• No need to remove inner fender use a swivel socket.
• While under the valve cover:
  • Torque Injector Bolt (120 INCH LBS)
  • Torque Rocker Bolts (240 INCH LBS)
  • With truck running
    • check oil flow from injector spout
    • check oil oozing from weep hole below solenoid
• Valve cover bolts (96 Ft Lbs)
• A nice fix for a leaking water pump cover is a billet cover.
• Charge Air Cooler (CAC) inlet/outlet ducts retaining clamps (71 INCH LBS)

[/edit]

 

My coolant likes to be at that level too. I can add more and it will end up there in a couple days. Others have reported the same. So that's all good.

The bad #5 injector and #7 glow plug sounds like a problem with UVCH wiring. Here's a link to the Godzilla of UVCH threads. Tons of info there. Bust out the DVM and let us know what you get.

Couple other related tidbits: if you do buy new GPs, do not get Autolites.

When I did the 50 cent mod I did not remove the wheelwell liner. Some do and report it is easier, I just did not see the need. Access sucks back there, so get a nice pad and sprawl on the engine and take your time with a stubby ratchet.

 

A 13 mm flex socket makes the valve cover bolts a lot easier to deal with.

 

OK, since there was nothing on the ground with the truck sitting for a couple of days, I **assumed** that it was not a leak and maybe it somehow tied in to the glow plug/injector issue. I found this:



so it appears that my coolant leak is an unrelated project.

Now, any advice on getting the hard plastic inner fender out. On thing I did discover is that with running boards, there's one xmas tree fastener that's inaccessible unless the running board is out of the way.





Any tips or tricks for getting it out once I get that fastener removed?


I have read that a number of people have been successful without removing the inner fender. I tried and I can't seem to get in there to remove the bolt I imagine getting it back in would be a pita as well.

 

im another that coolant only stays at that level.

 

Thanks for the link. I somehow missed that thread in my searching.

I think OEM are only about $10 so if I need any OEM it is. I haven't started looking into injectors yet. I'm still hoping that it's a wiring issue.

I was in there with a socket on a swivel , the problem was the swivel was at 90 degrees or more so turning it wasn't going to happen.

I might be able to get in there with a 1/4" swivel and 1/4" short socket. I don't own either.

I may be already committed the inner fender at this point. I pushed through a couple of items that were sticking through the plastic, I probably should find a way to secure whatever I popped loose. I have to remove the inner fender to see what they were.

 

Ahhh - light just went off. Flex socket is way shorter that socket + swivel extension. Yes, that might do the trick. Although at this point I think I have to pull the inner fender anyway.

 

I have done the UVCH on an Ex with the 13mm flex socket without messing with the fender liner. It's that stupid GPCM that bugged me. Here are the pictures from that party:

 

Fixing in the snow, I guess I should feel happy that I only have to deal with the cold.


Is this the socket that seems to work:


I've seen some others that are more like a CV joint. They're more expensive and not in stock locally. Like this:

 

The first one is just fine. The black one is an impact socket.

 

OK, I got the inner fender out AND got the 13mm swivel socket.

I can report that removing the inner fender is a major PITA. Almost all the plastic fasteners broke and some of the metal ones were a rusty mess. The two fasteners that I pushed through where just ones that were used to attach the pad to the top of the inner fender. So I didn't even really need to finish pulling it.

In addition to loosening the running board, I had to remove the wheel and shock in order to wrestle out the inner fender. I suspect I may end up removing the shock tower to get it back in. I'll see how it goes. I'm going to have to replace all the fasteners. If anyone has access the parts diagram for the passenger inner fender I need to start on a parts list.


As for the the needing to pull the inner fender, as reported, there's no need whatsoever. The 13mm swivel socket works like it was made for this application:

 

I forgot to mention - long extensions. Really long ones. I have 12", 6", and 3", and I use the cordless impact (I can dial the torque) to spin everything in and out. 15 minutes and one VC on the truck is clear. Ex? I need another 15 minutes to jerk with the heater valve, GPCM, and the general tightness of everything in there.

 

With the intercooler pipe off, I figured I'd poke around with the cell phone camera...

I've always had a small amt of oil coming from what seemed to be the back of the motor. You can sort of see it here - from the top rear of the passenger side valve cover:




Could this be a large part of the src?

 

That sounds interesting - can you share what impact that is?

I like the idea of being able to dial in the torque - even to just ballpark it low so it can be finished off with a torque wrench.

 

Yes, there is a drain hole in the engine valley located on the passenger side between the pass side valve cover and the turbo. Not a great photo but you can see were the flashlight is shining on it.







The oil in the valley will drain through this hole & leak down the back of the motor. The cause could be from the pic you posted of the plenum boots, the turbo pedestal O-rings, a HPOP line or possibly the HPOP. Do you have any oil in the engine valley?

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