94 4.6 into 64 f100
#46
Garage back in order:
Engine stand made so I can continue smaller things and clean it up:
Bets on if you can fit an entire Lincoln Town Car frame, suspension and all, into the back of a F100? Challenge accepted:
I decided to go ahead and toss the fuel system and exhaust (non-electrical sensor parts) and go back new. Ill do some research on where to go with that.
Engine stand made so I can continue smaller things and clean it up:
Bets on if you can fit an entire Lincoln Town Car frame, suspension and all, into the back of a F100? Challenge accepted:
I decided to go ahead and toss the fuel system and exhaust (non-electrical sensor parts) and go back new. Ill do some research on where to go with that.
#49
I installed a 5.4 with a manual 5speed into my f250 4x4 what a chore! The steering gear box on the 4x4s is in a dif location and I had to remove it along with I also made all my own wire harnesses. With all the mock up rebuilding of the motor making of mounts and the harnesses start to finish me and 3 other mechanics we had 400hrs invested. Although I do believe it is a easier job in the 2wd trucks. I also had a 223 in the truck b4
#50
I installed a 5.4 with a manual 5speed into my f250 4x4 what a chore! The steering gear box on the 4x4s is in a dif location and I had to remove it along with I also made all my own wire harnesses. With all the mock up rebuilding of the motor making of mounts and the harnesses start to finish me and 3 other mechanics we had 400hrs invested. Although I do believe it is a easier job in the 2wd trucks. I also had a 223 in the truck b4
---------------------------------------
Started clean up on the 4.6:
I have no idea where this hole goes, other than between the transmission and engine, but Im gonna have to find out. I didnt realize after Id sprayed degreaser in there and then used a brush with water and a wet vac to start clean up, but the hole is barely covered by a worn out plastic cap that wouldnt seal much of anything and broke apart when I removed it. There is another one like that on the bottom side of the trans. Hopefully none of the water that got down there hurt anything. Ill have to research that before I go any further.
Prepping intake for some lite cleaning:
Looking better, stuffed a sock in intake and plastic bag, then duck taped over it, then taped up other areas:
#51
Apparently the little plastic plug in the engine valley is called the valley plug, or something like that....imagine that. It lets coolant drain out if the line running through there from the water pump breaks and probably stops bigger stuff from going on through. Its supposed to not be a real critical deal. I put what was left of the plug back in and moved on.
Clean up mostly done:
Next is a little work on the wiring that goes across the top of the engine and finally think Im ready to go ahead and pull in the old truck and start stripping the front clip off. I want it off so I can do some work on the doors alignment to the front panels and to make installation easier. I may also do some suspension disk upgrade stuff now or later, we'll see.
Clean up mostly done:
Next is a little work on the wiring that goes across the top of the engine and finally think Im ready to go ahead and pull in the old truck and start stripping the front clip off. I want it off so I can do some work on the doors alignment to the front panels and to make installation easier. I may also do some suspension disk upgrade stuff now or later, we'll see.
#52
Here we go....starting the big push. Ill have to evaluate the front end while im in here; steering, suspension, etc. I prefer to keep the straight axle but who knows. Also may consider some type of sway bar. Then of course probably disk brakes, maybe power steering. I dont know right now.....what i can tell you is probably something you already know: 50 year old bolts are not easy to get out, lol.
#53
That was rough. The transmission and engine together is much tail heavier than I would have guessed. The front of the engine is mounted in the center of a horse shoe shaped bar....wrapping a strap around it and the back isnt the greatest idea in lite of the fact that the strap can slide mid-lift (when its too late to do anything) and you end up with the engine sideways on its way out....while the transmission is down low because its heavier than you thought in the back. Eventually I had to use another strap to help right it back up and get it set down on the frame stands. Ill have to go out tommorrow and get a good look at everything then clean up the garage.
#54
#56
well, i went to sit her in and it looked to me like some of the trans housing in the cab is gonna have to come out....i didnt really expect that but am not surprised....for some reason i thought id read it would fit without a trimming, maybe that was just in my head.
Anyway, ill trim it out tomorrow and hope to post some pics with the engine actually in the engine bay, lol.
Anyway, ill trim it out tomorrow and hope to post some pics with the engine actually in the engine bay, lol.
#57
Are you for sure on staying stock suspension? With CV suspension there is tons and tons of room. I've read many that turn there nose at CV suspension. Every chance I get I take people for a ride in my truck. It's amazing how much better it is. I have yet to read a thread or post from someone who has actually done it, that regrets it. It's the same thing with fuel injection, nobody that has done it correctly would ever go back to a carb.
Keep up the good work, but if you are even close to doing CV suspension Id do it now and not chop the tunnel.
Andrew
Keep up the good work, but if you are even close to doing CV suspension Id do it now and not chop the tunnel.
Andrew
#58
Are you for sure on staying stock suspension? With CV suspension there is tons and tons of room. I've read many that turn there nose at CV suspension. Every chance I get I take people for a ride in my truck. It's amazing how much better it is. I have yet to read a thread or post from someone who has actually done it, that regrets it. It's the same thing with fuel injection, nobody that has done it correctly would ever go back to a carb.
Keep up the good work, but if you are even close to doing CV suspension Id do it now and not chop the tunnel.
Andrew
Keep up the good work, but if you are even close to doing CV suspension Id do it now and not chop the tunnel.
Andrew
If i did do that id probably buy a mustang II kit. Which who knows, maybe one day i will.
I dont mind cutting the floor, im gonna put a console down anyone for anything updated i want in there, i dont have it in me to cut the dash.
appreciate it though.
#59
Before you cut the floor...
I can't speak to the straight axle trucks, but the '65-'66 trucks had two different trans humps, a high and a low. The 3 speed trucks had the low hump, which was part of the floor pan, while the 4 speed, and I believe the auto trans as well, had a higher trans hump, which was bolted to the floor pan.
You might want to check it out and see if your year truck may have had a higher, removable trans hump. If so, it could gain the clearance you need and retain a factory appearance.
I enjoy your write up and the good pictures.
Good luck.
I can't speak to the straight axle trucks, but the '65-'66 trucks had two different trans humps, a high and a low. The 3 speed trucks had the low hump, which was part of the floor pan, while the 4 speed, and I believe the auto trans as well, had a higher trans hump, which was bolted to the floor pan.
You might want to check it out and see if your year truck may have had a higher, removable trans hump. If so, it could gain the clearance you need and retain a factory appearance.
I enjoy your write up and the good pictures.
Good luck.
#60
The transmission my still clear. I have been studying mine since you posted last night. Sometimes when installing an engine and transmission together I have had to nearly have it vertical and then swing the tail up once I get it started in the "hole". Sometimes the front of the vehicle needs to be elevated so the tail of the transmission will clear the floor.
So it may be angle of attack and finding the position to get the engine and transmission in.
Another option is to take some measurements, do some thinking. If the transmission is catching on the cross member and floorboard/Firewall. It may clear once the pan crosses over the old cross member.
Option 1......Loosen the cab and lift the front of the cab to clear. You may have watch or remove the seal around the column but you should have enough adjustment to lift the front of the cab enough to let the pan clear the crossmember and the top clear the floor. Once the pan has passed the crossmember you may enough room with the crossmember going between the pan and bellhousing. Then you can let your cab back down.
Option 2......Separate the transmission from the engine, install the transmission from the bottom and and the engine from the top.
The big tricks and some of the 4 speed trucks had a removable floor board. On trucks like ours you can see that where that removable floor was is outlined in the sheet metal. It was near impossible for the big t98 to come out from the engine compartment so it was dropped to the floor or pulled up through the cab. That may be an option for you....finding a four speed floor plate or making one out of your floor. If you do it looks like you should cut out the floor to the inside of the stamping. That stamping adds rigidity to the edges. Then you'll have to make a flange for the piece you cut out or it may be easier to find a 4 speed floor piece.
So it may be angle of attack and finding the position to get the engine and transmission in.
Another option is to take some measurements, do some thinking. If the transmission is catching on the cross member and floorboard/Firewall. It may clear once the pan crosses over the old cross member.
Option 1......Loosen the cab and lift the front of the cab to clear. You may have watch or remove the seal around the column but you should have enough adjustment to lift the front of the cab enough to let the pan clear the crossmember and the top clear the floor. Once the pan has passed the crossmember you may enough room with the crossmember going between the pan and bellhousing. Then you can let your cab back down.
Option 2......Separate the transmission from the engine, install the transmission from the bottom and and the engine from the top.
The big tricks and some of the 4 speed trucks had a removable floor board. On trucks like ours you can see that where that removable floor was is outlined in the sheet metal. It was near impossible for the big t98 to come out from the engine compartment so it was dropped to the floor or pulled up through the cab. That may be an option for you....finding a four speed floor plate or making one out of your floor. If you do it looks like you should cut out the floor to the inside of the stamping. That stamping adds rigidity to the edges. Then you'll have to make a flange for the piece you cut out or it may be easier to find a 4 speed floor piece.