Original production harness: No fuse holders, no fuses. Also no fusible links.

First Ford Recall Fix: Unplugged original harness from the master cylinder. (That's it.)

Second Ford Recall Fix: Replaced harness with new harness having the fuse holders and fuses and zip ties, called the Fused Jumper Harness (FJH), part number 4W1Z-14A411-BC. Don't pay any attention to the 14A411... that's the basic part number to the harness. Instead, pay attention to the 4W1Z (this fix came out in 2004) and the application/revision code BC. This is the harness that is pictured with two cludgy looking after the fact fuse holders. You don't want this fix either, btw.

Third Ford Recall Fix: 8W1Z-14A11-C Revision from around 2008. This is essentially a parts inventory simplification called a Universal Fused Jumper Harness (UFJH) that simultaneously replaced inventories of the previous 4W1Z-14A11-BC and 8W1Z-14A11-BB (when the recall was expanded to encompass more models of Fords found to be affected). Basically ignore this as well, I'm just posting it for the record.

FINAL FORD FIX: This is the fix you want: New harness, with NO fuse holders, because it has fusible links instead. This fix also replaces the Texas Instruments designed Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) whose delicate elastomeric membrane inside ruptures and causes the brake fluid to leak... with a newly designed switch. You don't just want the new harness, you want the new switch too.

The original switch had a fat metal barrel, and was shorter in length. It also had an orange harness connector, that had a more rectangular shaped shell. The new switch has a skinnier metal barrel, and is a bit longer. The connector shell shape is round. These external characteristics have nothing to do with the functional success or failure of the switch, they are just to help you identify the difference between switch generations, to determine if you have the new or the old switch. You want the new one.

The new switch, due to the new connector shell shape, requires a new connector harness jumper, which has invisible fusible links rather than fuses. Fusible links look just like wires, but are gauged to separate and break connection at a calibrated current load. In this manner, no one can fuss with the fuse, making the harness unsafe again. Here are the Ford and Motorcraft part numbers you need for the kit that includes both the SCDS and the FLJH:

Ford Service: 1LIZ-9F924-AA

same as

Motorcraft: SW-6350

You can probably order this kit from Tousley for less than $18.00. It's funny how recall parts like CMP sensors and SCDS switch kits end up costing so much less than they used to before they became recalled parts.

Ford issued several Safety Recalls (more significant and far reaching than a "Technical Service Bulletin") on this critical safety issue. I do not have the number to the first recall, but that is unimportant because it was superseded by several newer related and updated recalls since. Of these, the first recall I have records of is is 05S28, which was later revised to 08S01, which advised Ford Dealers to remove the 4W1Z-14A411-BC FJH that was previously installed in service, and update it with the revised/correct FJH or UFJH in combination with a new SCDS if wet. Seriously? If wet? This is Ford STILL trying to save a buck, by telling dealers NOT to replace a known to fail and burn up people's children switch, if the switch isn't wet (with brake fluid). In otherwords, the switch hadn't failed. Yet.

It took another year of NHTSA knocking on Ford's door for Ford to finally do the right think and replace the defective switch. Here is the latest and last recall, that covers 1992-2003 model year Ford vehicles:

SAFETY RECALL 09S09

 

Thanks sop much for excellent info.

 

Thanks for that clarification! I just looked at mine and it is indeed an early recall fix, with the fuse holders at zip ties. I see the newer switch and jumper harness all over ebay for $18....is this a plug and play swap and worth the $18 or should I take it to Ford, assuming they would have to fix it again with the newer parts at no charge? It's worth it to me to spend $18 for the part and not have to leave the house....just curious if a bunch of fluid will be lost when replacing the switch and have to do anything else?

 

Ford should fix it for free, if that is what you want.

To help prevent the dealer from opening the hood, looking at the Universal Fused Jumper Harness (UFJH) that you have, and closing the hood and saying you're already fixed, you might want to print out a copy of both recalls, (08S01 as well as 09S09), and state that you would feel more comfortable with the revised switch and harness (1LIZ-9F924-AA). A few words about your family's safety bla bla bla are sure to convince the dealer to not want to take on the liability for refusing your reasonable and well documented request. Parts AND LABOR are covered by Ford in the recalls.

On the other hand, if you live in the country, and it just isn't worth driving into town to have a Ford dealer monkeying around mucking more things up under your hood in the process, then by all means, the part is cheap enough to order and easy enough to install yourself. That is what I did. My truck has never darkened a dealership service bay door since I drove it off the lot umpteen years ago, so I understand the thinking there.

Here are a few guidelines from Ford, if you choose to install the new SCDS yourself.

1. Check the fluid in the master cylinder, make sure it is full.

2. Add a few drops of new DOT 3 brake fluid to the threaded end of the new SCDS (not the wire connector end, obviously). Do this thread lubrication before pulling the old SCDS out of the port, because you want to minimize the time between pulling the old SCDS and installing the new SCDS, as that will minimize the amount of leakage while the sensor is pulled.

3. Pull the old SCDS. Don't worry, fluid will not spray out, nor will it gush out. It will steadily dribble out, and if it doesn't dribble out, then you've got a different problem to solve. On the opposite end of the spectrum, if you let it dribble out to the point where the fluid in the master cylinder falls below the minimum level, then you'll have to bleed the brake system of air. So you want to pull the old SCDS, and be ready to install the new SCDS immediately thereafter.

4. But before installing that new SCDS, remove the master cylinder cap, and then make sure you do observe brake fluid dripping from the SCDS fitting boss. Once you see it bleeding, go ahead and install the new SCDS.

5. Don't over tighten it. I've seen pictures of poor guys who've sheared off the entire SCDS mounting boss from the casting of their master cylinder. Suddenly an $18 job turned into a $300 job. If this is the kind of luck you have, then maybe let Ford do it. I have this kind of bad luck, but I still insist on doing things myself while I am still able, and fortunately, managed to avoid this bad luck from happening to me. The torque for the SCDC is 13 foot lbs.

6. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, fill to maximum fluid level, and then reinstall the cap. Careful not to let contaminates get into the master cylinder reservoir whilst the cap is open.

7. Know that there is a difference between Ford's DIE-electrical grease Motorcraft XG-3-A, and Ford's Electrical grease XG-12-A, and Ford's Electrical Grease II, which is XG-15-A. It is this third type of grease, the XG-15-A, that Ford recommends in the male pin field in the wire harness connector be filled with prior to connecting to the new SCDS you just installed. The only problem is, the XG-15-A is VERY VERY expensive, and as such, is very difficult to come by. I seriously doubt the dealers use it, as Ford straight up states they will not reimburse for the use of this grease as part of the recall. I'm not sure what the properties are in the XG-15-A that make it specified in this application, and make it so special in the first place, but I have to assume that resistance to brake fluid is one of the properties. Anyway, this is the correct electrical grease recommended to use in the wire harness connections.

 

Sounds easy enough, and worth $18 to do it myself and not have to deal with an appointment, waiting room and all that jazz.

 

And miss out on a stryofoam cup of burnt waiting room coffee? To each his own.

 

I did not see this link for checking recall information posted. Here it is.

Identify Your Ford, Lincoln or Mercury Vehicle | Official Ford Owner Site

 

Y2K thanks brother. Picked up latest fix sensor and harness for $15 on Rock Auto. Reminds me why I hate dealers....walk in, writes me up, says Xmas and all, everyone is closed, they have to call Ford after holidays and see what they want to do about it, truck will sit at dealer (without getting looked at or worked on) for 5 days minimum, and then they'll let me know. Truck-less until who knows when.

GTFO *****

 

What is the timeline on the 'fixes'? Old service records show my truck had the recall done in late '09.

 

Based on your post, I'm guessing you don't consider it normal for a person to do their due diligence when buying a used rig?

Maybe I should stop assuming most people do, then I wouldn't be surprised.

Stewart

 

For many (like me) this could be their first diesel. There's due diligence, then there's the 4-year diesel academy on everything from HEUI to tire wear.

Here is the package I bought at the stealership (no time to wait for shipping).






I always enjoy reading Y2KW57's posts, because I know I'm going to learn something in-depth.
<table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="6" cellpadding="0" abp="2822"><tbody abp="2823"><tr abp="2824"><td class="alt2" abp="2825"></td><td nowrap="nowrap" abp="2828">

</td></tr></tbody></table>

 

Cool find on that Recall Lookup! Unfortunately it shows there are no current recalls listed for my truck, so they must think it is taken care of. However I can tell by looking I have the early harness jumper and what looks like the original switch. For $18 (or $15 Rock Auto) I'll spend the money and make sure it is done to the latest safety specs :-) And yes....bypass the stale burnt coffee ;-)

 

The clues for the timeline are embedded in the recall numbers and the part number prefixes.

I already talked about the part numbering dates in my post above, so let's just consider the recall number dating here, as recall numbers are the most important in terms of getting Ford to fix it, and/or determining if Ford already fixed it.

05S28 means this was the 28th Safety recall issued in calendar year 2005.

08S01 means this was the 1st Safety recall issued in calendar year 2008.

09S09 means this was the 9th Safety recall issued in calendar year 2009.


By 2009, Ford stuck a fork in this issue and called it done, in terms of finalizing the resolution with what is now sold as the Motorcraft SW-6350 kit.

 

But if you find a really good dealer, you might get a stale sticky Svenhards. Wouldn't want to pass up one or two of those would you?

This recall has been around since 2004, first as a soft fix in the mild form of a TSB, then as a genuine recall that evolved into the various iterations already detailed above. So it makes perfect sense that your truck was earmarked as "fixed" in Ford's Oasis system, even if the earlier fix was deployed that only added the FJH or UFJH, rather than the SCDS and fusible links of the last known fix.

 

That's very kind of you to say Rich, but you have added a tremendous amount of informative posts, outlining your trials, tribulations, and triumphs in detail... and this forum serves as a library to the four year academy of which you speak as a result.