Got a "new" cab that has AC and power doors/windows.

My old cab was a stripper with no power options.
This original alt needs a re-build, but do I leave at like it is? or do I need more amperage cause of the AC and power windows/locks?
Thanks

 

What do you have now?
40, 50, 60A?
1G or 2G?

More reserve power is always nice because the alternator is never working hard or heating up.

 

Hi ArdWrknTrk
Not sure what it is, It is original to the 84 F-150 with Carbed 351.
2 ears at 12 and 6 o'clock.
Has 3 wires attached to the back
a "red" one with a nut.
an "orange Clip on
and a grey clip on

 

IIRC those with A/C got the 70A variant (and a larger radiator).

 

But, if it has ever been replaced is it likely they were able to find a 70A unit?

 

For the 1Gs, I thought the 70A were all that was available anymore.. I know nothing about the 2G systems..

 

When I got the Cab, I was smart enough to take the (excellent condition) core support and radiator/shroud, already installed with the condenser and compressor, Cruise cable, sensor, and module.
How do I tell from a 40, 50, 60. 70A 1G or 2G?
No clue on alts.

 

1G has a regulator on the fender. 2G has an internal regulator but still has an external fan. 3G has an internal regulator and fan.

Many alternators have the rating stamped on them somewhere. But, if it has been rebuilt the stamping may not be correct. So, I don't know that you really can tell.

 

He says 'the alternator has 3 wires on the back'.
'A Red wire with a nut'.

That is 1G for sure...
If the original truck was a stripper, he likely has the 40A alternator.

If switching from an idiot light dash to one with gauges, the 1G regulator plug changes too.

At that point, I would opt for a self contained 3G.
The 95A will fit fine and have enough power for a 'stockish' truck.

 

Dash was always a gauge dash, if that helps

 

It helps understand which configuration your regulator was wired.
I'd imagine any XL/T would have gauges.

The power window motors are a pretty big draw, but you are only going to operate them for a few seconds.
The battery can handle that.

Having the A/C blower running is no different than the heater in winter, except for the power used to engage the clutch.
I'm not sure how much those draw.

 

I believe there is an external regulator, Small box on right fender with wire clip on bottom, If going to 3G internal regulator-style, how is that wired up?

 

You dispose of the tin can regulator.

The 3G alternator only needs the ltGrn/red (hot in start & run) exciter wire.
A large gauge charge cable with an inline fuse is connected to the battery+ side of your fender mounted starter relay.

The 2&3G three wire regulator plug is connected to the ltGrn/red power wire, the white/black stator wire is looped to the single stator connection on the back of the alternator and the yellow/white 'sense' wire is connected to the output stud along with the charge cable.

Does your new cab have an ammeter?
Probably best to convert that to a voltmeter.
They can barely handle 65A, let alone 95 or 130...

 

Dash Cluster says "Charge"
How to tell "Ammeter vs Voltmeter?"

 

That's an ammeter. None of these trucks came with volt meters. But Rocketman will convert an ammeter to a voltmeter for about $25.