I will try cranking some more before I test the FICM. I have been letting it crank for about 10 seconds at a time. Just worried about killing the starter.


What do I need to unplug from the vacuum to make it cut off for now?

 

The hose coming of the end of the vacuum pump points forward, this line runs to the tank, the the tank line runs to the 4 by 4 switch and the HVAC controls. If you put a plug in the line in the socket that goes to the tank, that will cause it to reach vacuum in the short time, quickly and shut off so you don't have to listen to those noises when you are troubleshooting other things. You won't have auto hubs, you will have to manually lock, you will only have heater on defrost until this is put back.

 

^^^

What he said, but what I usually do is just un plug the pump. Its easier for me to remember to just plug the pump back in when I'm done. Either way will work.

Sarge

 

+1 on cranking for a minute or so at a time and rest for 30 seconds to let starter cool...

I just started my truck after replacing STC fitting and IPR valve screen last night... took a good solid minute of cranking before I even began to build pressure.

Look up a video on youtube of a guy starting the truck for the first time after a head stud job... they cranked that thing for like 2.5 minutes, the guy in front of the truck, "keep letting it crank man, gotta build up some pressure"

But more importantly than that, +100000000 on getting an app, a scanguage II, whatever it is you choose to read the sensors in the engine. You can hardly diagnose anything in this engine without seeing the vitals live. I have a scanguage II and I love it. Best $150 I ever spent.

 

After checking the FICM for voltage and seeing 48v I cranked it over for 45 seconds and it fired up. It was running like crap so i shut it off. And checked the oil level. It was way low. I added another quart and can see it on the dip stick now. So i have put 18 quarts of oil in so far. Is it normal to need way more oil after changing the oil cooler?

Thanks for all the help. Now ill be able to drive it into the autocraft shop to scan and see what the check engine light is.

 

Glad to hear you got it going and thank you for the update.

 

Yes it is possible I suppose, but keep an eye on that oil level anyway - make sure you did not overfill it or that you aren't using/losing any oil. While a completely dry system can take 18 quarts (no matter what some folks experiences have been, it has been confirmed by multiple techs and engine builders), it seems that around a 17 qt fill after an oil cooler job might be more common.

Besides, it is wise to keep the oil level in the middle of the dip stick so you can see BOTH a rising or dropping oil level.

Glad you got it going.

 

I do have a bypass oil filter so that's where I need an extra quart in the system.

 

So once I got it started up it was running rough, and I got a check engine light. I was hoping that the egr delete would not throw a code, but it looks like it did. I have to wait until Friday to hook it up to a computer to see exactly what is gong on. It was blowing fuel out the tail pipe. One step closer though.


I could not have done this job without the help of everyone on the forum.
I figure not to bad for a photographer.

 

The truck was running really rough so I limped it to the auto craft shop and hooked it up to the computer. Cylinder 3 and 5 where showing low compresson. So I pulled the pushrods on them to see what is going on. This is what I found.



So I'm waiting on pushrods and a back pressure sensor.
I had an egr fault code too. Looks like I will have to get a tuner to take care of that. I did a full egr delete and coolant reroute. It was a 50/50 shot if I was going to get a code for that since the truck was built in 04.5


Do I tighten the stud nut down first then the rocker bolts to prevent this from happening again?

 

IIRC (and sometimes I don't) you'll need to roll the crank dowel pin to 6 o'clock before putting them in. You need to install them, torque the head stud, torque the rocker bolts, then ROLL THE MOTOR OVER BY HAND 2 or 3 rounds to make sure the lifters/pushrods seat correctly. This method gives a much greater chance of success.

 

One of the push rods are missing, is it in the engine?

 

The other pushrod is back in the engine. It looked fine. The three you see had scoring on them like they didn't get seated right. Can some please show me a picture of the dowel to turn to on the crank?

 

You want to position the locating dowel on the end of the crank shaft/crank pulley to the 6 o'clock position by turning the motor over by hand.

 

I found out why it was running rough. I have a bad injector connector. Just waiting on it to come in. Oh and my fan wiring got caught on the fan and ripped off.
I think I an going to switch to a mechanical fan clutch so I won't have to worry about it get ripped off again.