I just bought an old '94 F150 XLT 5.0 for $500. The lady said it has not run in a while. Turns over. Runs on starter fluid. Inertia switch not kicked. Odometer blank. No check engine light. The only light working on the dash is the battery light. No sound of fuel pumps running, front or rear tanks.


Is it possible it's the computer?

 

Welcome. Straight into the unknown I see?

Well, yes, it could be the computer, but there is a lot to check before that. The blank odometer is an interesting clue. You will want to ensure the ECU is getting power. There is a relay under the hood for EEC power. Same box also has a relay for the fuel pump. Good spot to test for power. One of the fun things about getting a vehicle in unknown condition is you do not know what may have been removed or disconnected. Just a wild guess, but maybe someone swiped the EEC power and fuel pump relays?

 

Check the red wire on any of the injectors with a loading test light. Does it light up with the key on?

 

welcome to FTE.
if the truck sat for quite a while, i would say bad fuel pump and bad gas.

 

If it "runs on starter fluid", it's apparently getting ignition, right? That means the PCM or ECU is getting power, which means the EEC-IV power relay is operating. impish

 

Running on starter fluid does not mean that the EEC-IV power relay is operating.
Yes it is getting Ignition but the EEC-IV power relay is not required for that and neither is the EEC-IV PCM Computer.

 

thanks to everyone. I tested everything you guys suggested and figured it had to be the computer. it was only $89, so I figuered why not. I'm in for $589. it should arrive today.

 

OK. I must have more than one issue. I have not had time to play with this thing until today. Computer replaced, all lights are back, SRS, check engine, etc. Odometer back, blown fuse under dash, only 117k. Nice. Fuel pumps still won't run/prime. Got out the test light. Power to relays, and I can hear a click when I turn the switch to run. No power off either wire at the inertia switch. There is supposed to be, right? What is between the relays and the inertia switch?

 

power to inertia switch will only be at key on for a few seconds, then it will shut off until engine starts.

 

Jumper pins 2 & 6 on the diagnostic link connector then the fuel pump relay will stay energized with the key on.

 

after jumping pins two and six, I should hear the pumps running, correct? the tank selector switch is good. just to make sure, I bypassed the inertia switch. still no sound from either tank and no fuel pressure at the valve on the fuel rail. the pumps are both shot, right? after calling the lady back, when she said "it has not run in a while" what she meant was it has been sitting for 10 years.

 

Ouch, sitting 10 years.

If you have 12 volts to the pump at the tank, you can try banging on the side of the fuel tank with a rubber mallet. Have heard it done and done it myself for a stubborn fuel pump.

The only problem with this idea is that the fuel that was in there is simply trash, varnish, and you don't want that making its way through the entire fuel system.

 

I gave the rubber mallet a try. nothing. I can't confirm if I have power at the pump until I get it loaded on a trailer and moved. I don't feel like rolling under it in the mud. I was going to try and save myself a headache by driving it on the trailer. oh well.