Hi guys ..... I have a new nitrous system. It has a 25; 75, 150 shot. Still needs to be plumbed. I'm running a stock motor with headers n duel exhaust. I wanna use the 25 shot. I was also looking into the sts turbo system. The turbo will be my Xmas gift this yr if I decide to get one. Is it wise to run nitrous with a turbo or is it to much ? Or should it be either or make a decision. I have been looking into other turbo systems also. Any input on turbo companies is welcomed. Thanks for the help .... Merry Xmas every one !!!

 

Run with the 75 shot til the stock bottom end gives out. By then you'll (hopefully) have enough $$ saved up to build it right with forged internals and all the other goodies. I would not bother with the turbo til then, either.

That's assuming you have something else to drive... if this is your driver I would NOT put either of these things on a high mileage bottom end.

 

For the most part I agree with dixie. It's a matter of time before you blow out the stock rotating assembly w/nitrous. Adding a turbo is going shorten the time frame by a factor of ten.

Stolen from Capital One: What's in your wallet?

 

I have purchased a scat rotating assembly from summit racing a while back. Part # sca -1-45310be. The package also included a flex plate n balancer n arp rod bolts. Cost me $2344.97 to the front door. I have a bare block sitting on the side stripped down. Jus needs machining n assembly. I still need a cam for it. Any idea guys ? The thought did cross my mind to jus run without nitrous n turbo. All motor.

 

I assume you plan to get a custom tune or something like Moates/Tweecer to tune it yourself. The cam choice depends on many factors like what heads, intake, headers do you plan to use. How much power are you looking for, etc.

Just tossing in a stroker crank is not going make this truck a hot rod. You have to set an end goal then purchase parts accordingly, otherwise you might as well throw money out the window or simply send some checks to us to spread the wealth.

 

Well the summit kit has been sitting in the garage unopened for 3 years. I've been saving money for a while now. I have been in talks with Nelson racing, Scott shafiroff racing an others about ready to run motors for street n strip. Looking for something around 450 - 550 horsepower. As far as ecu tune I have been talking to a few people recommended by engine builders. A carb setup is not out of the question. It's something I grew up learning about before computers came along. I have a brand new Hughes performance trans sitting n waiting. I might sell it n purchase a bowler trans. Not sure yet. I have been driving a van for the past several years cause of my 3 kids. My hobbies took a back seat. Now that their older I wanted to start fiddling around again. When I'm done I wanted to take my kids riding around in the truck n have fun with them. My wife can sit in the bed .... Lol jk

 

I doubt a turbo will go well with that setup. 5cc dished pistons are going to be pretty high in compression unless you have some very large chamber heads on it. I'd be looking at 20-30cc dished pistons for a turbo setup unless you like changing head gaskets.

You didn't mention what heads you'll be using, so rather than the turbo setup, why don't you get the machining and heads for the motor and install it. Do a mass-air conversion, either with the truck ECU or a Mustang setup and run a Mustang type intake. Get it setup and broken in first then spay it with the 75 jets and call it a day. Depending on the heads and cam you should be able to get into the 350-375 range pretty easy and be around 450 with spray.

Lastly, I'll put my 2 cents in on a 450-550 "street" motor. Not gonna happen with a 347. Sure, you can get 450-550 out of it, but it won't be very streetable, especially in a truck. You want 450-550 from the motor and it should be streetable? Start with at least a stroker 351w or better yet a 460.

What kind of truck is this going in? Please say 2wd F150 short bed and not crew cab 4x4 F350... You'll need a converter and gears for your setup too.

I'd go with a set of TFS 190cc heads, a Comp XE-274 roller cam and a performer RPM type intake with matching injectors and a good tune. Or a carb if you want to roll that way. Then you'll need a converter, 2,500 stall minimum and 4.10 gears minimum, 4.30's would be better. That'll get you around 375-400 at the flywheel and you can put a small amount of spray. It won't be daily driver smooth though.

 

The turbo n spray I'm done with it. I decided not to do it. That's why I'm talking to engine builders n tossing around ideas to them. Technology has improved over the last 7 years since I've been raising my kids. That horsepower number is jus something I threw out there to them to see what they had to say n being realistic about it. I do want a streetable driver n also get up n go too. It's goin in a 94 flareside 2wd. It'll still have a/c for those hot days. I've even thought about taking the truck to the builder n letting them install the setup so I don't have to mess with it. That nitirous set up will be a gift to my cousin. As far as carb or fuel injection that's still up for debate. I jus don't know what I want to do yet. There's a lot of good reputable engine builders out there. I jus need to make a decision by early summer next year. I like the people I've been talking too. They all seem interested in giving me what I want. Realistically of course. This is my first time talking to someone that specializes in building motors. So far the one that seems to be sticking out the most is Nelson racing for me. The owner seems to be very enthusiastic when talking to me.

 

Nelson seems quite capable of extracting large amounts of HP from engines... I love how clean his turbo setups look. With that said, there are limits to how much HP you can get NA before it becomes unstreetable. Sure, the choppy cam sounds cool, but try driving it around at 1,500 rpms as it surges and lopes around... That gets old quick. High compression is a sure way to more power but good luck feeding a 13:1 motor. Power adders are definitely the way to go for huge power, but your foundation needs to be solid and a stock Windsor block ain't it. I'm not going to argue about when it breaks, just that it will long before you hit the limits of the turbo setups that are out there and the airflow of the available heads.

I'd say find a competent shop and have them build the long block and swap it in. At this power level it isn't rocket science and you don't need some "pro" builder that's going to tack on a fee for his name. No offence at any of the builders out there, their value is in there knowledge which comes into play when you want a 1,000hp small block... Not a 350hp on.

My revised build list:

Comp XE276HR
TFS 190cc CNC heads
Performer RPM or similar intake
30lb injectors
Mass Air Conversion
Tweeker or similar recommended with a dyno tune
255lph pump
4.30 gears
2500 stall converter
Decent exhaust

You can spay it if you want to, but I think a turbo is going to be a bit much. Any real boost and you'll lift the heads off the motor... I've seen guys try turbos and blowers on higher compression motors blow head gaskets with as little as 6-7psi boost.

With the stall and gears it'll be driveable and I'm sure it'll be a blast. Traction will be a major problem. I'd say you'll be right around 400hp at the crank, probably 330-335 at the wheels with that combo.

 

I'm not doin any power adders. All motor. Maybe spray cause it weighs 4010. Caltrac said they have bars for helping with traction n so did jlp racing. My uncle is a fabricator maybe I can ask to make a pair of bars for me. I always wondered about the length of traction bars as to what worked n what didn't. So many different styles don't know who to trust.

 

Slappers work well; they should be under the spring eye. Tune them with the air gap on the snubbers. The closer they are the harder they hit. As for ladder bars it's about the instant center. Picture your truck; at some point if you put a bar through the truck it would balance perfectly. That's the instant center. If the ladder bars extended cross in front of that point it will plant the rear and try and lift the front. Too far ahead and the suspension won't work right and you'll waste energy lifting the truck. Sometimes the point ends up behind the IC. The goal is just far enough forward to get traction without wasting energy lifting the truck up. That covers where to point them, the length is about the natural ark of the rear as the suspension works. You'll also need axle floaters...

Caltracs work well too.