If this picture from post #19 on page 2 of this thread is your truck,



It shows the ipr and ICP on the rear of the engine and the pump part number on the invoice (3C3Z-9A543-AARM) is correct.

If the IPR is in fact on the valve cover then the other pump (4C3Z-9A543-AARM) would be the one you want.
*NOTE- I'm not certain there is ANY difference in the location of the mount for the branch tube connector even if it is the wrong pump.

It's amazing to me that production tolerances could be a 1/4in or more off on a part like this, I've seen that on MOPAR stuff before but not on Ford.

As far as the STC terminology, it's true it didn't show up in production until the 2005 engines. The acronym stands for "Snap To Connect". It had a plastic sleeve around a moving center section on the tube that allowed for easier alignment during installation. Unfortunately, the have a tendency to leak and it's SOP to change it out for a one piece branch tube connector whenever you get near one during maintenance. Anyway, the part in question on your truck would be a branch tube connector or maybe a HPOP discharge tube.

Hers a pic of the branch tube connector on the '05 and up engines. It looks the same as an STC except no plastic collar on the tube section.

 

So the AR mechanic called last night and said he was able to manipulate the hpop to branch tube line to fit up perfectly. He is in the process of putting it back together now. Keep your fingers crossed. Hopefully I will be on my way to pick her up and drive her back as soon as tomorrow morning.

Thanks to everyone for your patience with my incorrect terminology, and all the help you have given me.

Geez it will feel good if he calls and says shes all set!

Now I'm just scared of the shop time price.

 

Good luck! It does sound like you got a decent Tech this time who was was patient enough to verify what was wrong and make it right.

 

He was a family friend, as well as recommended by a ton of people. So if anyone is anywhere near Greenbriar Arkansas and stuck, his name is Keith Ferrell.

Ferrell Equipment and Diesel supply

Tell him Sean O'Connor or Bill Hamrick sent you.

 

Spoke with the AR mechanic tonight. As of today all the injector and nipple cup o-rings are replaced as well as a new alternator. He says the truck runs, and runs good, but I am getting "fuel in the oil"?

Maybe have him pull all the glow plugs crank it and see where the fuel is coming from?

(Unrelated I think but)
I know I have 4 - 6 bad glow plugs. Or at least have codes for them.
Possibly a bad GPCM for having codes on 6? or would I have a GPCM specific code?

Bad injector possible? I'll take and run with whatever advice is given. Things can't get any worse...

Thanks again,

Sean.

 

So The issue started when The truck started stalling hot. Cranked and started fine cold.

Eventually complete crank no start HOT.

Re-cap on work done so far ---> Replaced the following:

• FICM
• Oil Cooler
• HPOP
• HPOP to Branch tube line
• All injector o-rings (internal and oil rail seals)
• ------>[visual inspection on injectors were good]
• Nipple cup o-rings (under the oil rails)
• ------>[visual inspection of the nipple cups were good]
• New EGR valve (for fan and cooling purposes)
• New ICP
• New IPR
• New injector (cylinder 3)
• Both Batteries
• Alternator
• Starter
• EGR delete
• Oil changed several times while working on it.

So now the truck runs. Not blowing smoke. After sitting idling for an hour I gain 2 quarts in the oil. Which is FUEL in the oil. I have only to assume another bad/cracked injector, or possible a few.


Lemme know what you fellas think?

 

AR mechanic is saying he is going to do an "fuel system 'air test'". Does this sound like an accurate method to track down whats going on?

Thanks again.

Sean.

 

My guess is an improperly torqued injector or one of the top injector orings was damaged on install.

 

I would remove the valve covers and oil rails and just turn the key on so the fuel pump will run and closely watch around each injector to see which one is at fault, note the fuel pump only runs for 20 seconds after the key is turned to the run position so you may have to cycle the key a few times to find the problem so I would pull the glow plug relays so the glow plugs don't run with every cycle of the key.

 

I am no expert on injectors, so yall please correct me if I am wrong.

Do a bubble test to see if compression is getting back into the fuel lines. If it flunks, it is likely bad injector tip. A bad injector cup in the head usually gets diesel in the coolant. You can further isolate which side by disconnecting on side of the fuel line from the fuel bowl.

If it passes, and you know there is fuel in the oil, one of the upper injector orings is likely bad.

I don't know how a bad D ring or nipple cup oring could let fuel into the oil.

Based on getting a quart of fuel into the oil in one hour of idling, I'd lean towards one of the upper injector orings ( not the upper d ring) to be cut.

 

I'm going to call the mechanic in the morning and suggest all of the above.

He say's he has another similar year make and model truck there and he was going to swap it's injectors into 2, 4, 6, 8 of mine and see if it holds pressure. He says he has it isolated to that side.

I'll call him and suggest what you guys said.

Thanks again.

I WANT MY TRUCK BACK!

 

Alrighty,

Add to the above list

• 4 injectors 1,3,5,7
• New alternator
• New turbo hoses (free)
• All new air filter clips (they were missing [free])
• All new nipple cup and external injector o-rings
• 4 oil changes (He only charged me for 1)
• New HPOP to Branch tube line (Heated and manipulated to fit correctly)
• Over 40 hours shop time (Charged for 15)
• 2500.00$ (Injectors and alternator alone were 1200.00)

So Keith called me (AR Mechanic) and said that injectors in cylinders 1, 3, 5, 7, weren't holding fuel pressure. Not even 5 psi. So he had a brand new injector that he swapped systematically one at a time in 1, 3, 5, and 7 and each time per swap that side of the engine/fuel system wouldn't even hold even 5 psi.

He called me and informed me of this.

Long story short replaced all 4 injectors, the HPOP to branch tube line and the alternator and my truck now runs like a dream. No more electrical issue, no more HPOS issue/leaks, no more fuel getting in the oil.

Rented a car (from Enterprise this time and not Heartz) for 100.00 even, instead of last time getting home from AR 500.00, and picked my truck up last night.

Drove her home. On the drive I stopped every 100 miles or so and checked the oil and it stayed exactly the same on the dipstick each stop.

One tank of fuel = Approx 550 miles. F yeah!

I wanna thank you all for reading my long, sometimes mis-informative posts, and helping me load up with info, ammo & advice to make the right decisions along the way.

This is a great community/family!

Merry Christmas/Happy holidays to everyone!

Sean.

 

Glad you have her running Sean.

Have a Merry Christmas, and enjoy the truck!

 

Great news! Sorry you had to spend all that money on the truck at Christmas, but glad you got it back and home safe!

Merry Christmas!

 

Great news at an even better price. Merry Christmas

2006 F350 4X4