My 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm.
Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).


I am mechanically inclined and don't mind trying to repair the engine. Is there something special about the heads on this engine that can't be repaired? In so many of the other threads, most often than not, the writer is recommended to buy another engine when the problem involves similar problems.


I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.


(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)

 

Could be as simple as a broken valve spring. You need to take the valve cover off and have a look. Take some pics and post them here. I have worked on hundreds of these engines and have help a few people here with theirs.

 

I will post photos tomorrow.

 

 

 

The above photos are of the cam that is supposed to have low compression, other than it being filthy, I didn't notice anything physically wrong.


I pulled the codes just before disassembly, P0345 and P0022.

 

I don't see anything either. Sometimes the springs break and the broken coil gets stuck under the other coils so it's hard to see if its broken. I would put some compressed air on #3 and see whats leaking. Make sure the valves are closed on that cylinder first. Those codes you posted are usually caused by the chain being a tooth off or low oil pressure to the phasers. Does the engine knock and rattle when its hot at idle?

 

Yes the engine does knock and has a rough idle when hot. I press the accelerator while in neutral, the rough idle stops and the noise goes away.

 

Any opinions?
Are these conditions consistant with the timing being off by one or two teeth on the phaser sprocket?
If not, what are my options to correct the problems?

 

It is possible you may have a VCT solenoid issue. If you swap the passenger side VCT solenoid to the driver side and driver side to passenger side and the code changes from P0022 bank 2 to P0012 bank 1, then that could be your problem, or some of it anyway.

 

Thanks, although both solenoids are fairly new, I will try the switch. Currently the chain cover is off again, I'm in the process of repositioning the chains/timing. I will be putting the engine back together tomorrow.

 

What have you found out?

 

Special tool


I reset the timing again, now it's giving code P0345 with P0022 pending.
I ordered the special tool for the proper alignment of the crank mentioned in the timing video, I will try using it next. If the tool doesn't work, I will remove the heads to see if they are damaged.


Another thing that concerns me, the tail pipe has excess moisture dripping, it appears to be plan water (dripping maybe one drop per minute). I removed the oil filler cap and there is moisture there as well. I drained the oil, there is no sign of water mixed with oil.


All suggestions are welcome, or is it time to search for a replacement engine?

 

It wouldn't be a bad idea to check your engine oil pressure - if you can, just to make sure that isn't causing this issue for you. Ford specifies a minimum 25 PSI at hot idle. Oil pressure issues have been known to do this on these engines a lot of times before. I would hook a gauge up, then drive the truck if possible for about 25-30 minutes, then come back and see what it's reading. The gauge should also read steady and not bouncing around all crazy.

 

That tool isn't necessary to set the timing. How did you set the chains up and where did you put the timing marks? Did you install new tensioners? The water dripping from the tailpipe is a normal product of combustion and the milky residue in the oil cap is normal too. Just as long as you are not loosing coolant and the oil itself is not milky then you don't have a problem.