So the gasket between the waterpump/timing chain cover blew out, and its a nasty one. I can't drive the truck thats how much its leaking. For the most part I know what i need to do, however i heard these 302 motors aren't friendly when it comes to snapping bolts. What should i have ready incase one of these bolts decides to snap? I only have 2 days to get it fixed so im going be in a time crunch to do so. The ford dealership doesn't even wanna touch my truck because most of their mechanics aren't familiar with 302's and don't want a doozy on their hands and unfortunately its the only dealership around. Any tips/tricks/input is appreciated.

 

Yup, those spindly little bolts WILL break. No way around it. Only way to fix is to pull the timing cover off.

The whole problem stems from them going into the water jacket(on the inside of the block) and they get rusty and won't unscrew through the block. That along with the bolt themselves get thin and weak from rusting. It won't usually just break the head off, it will break down by the block. Removing the timing cover is the only way to get to them.

I did my '89 a year ago, but I was doing timing cover gasket anyway. Broke one, but had enough sticking out that I was able to put some light heat on the block area and grab broken piece with vise grips and unscrew it. Buddy had some left over used bolts from another engine that I used to replace it. Can't always just use generic bolt since you may need the threaded stud on the top for mounting accy's.

Imagine that, a dealership don't want to deal with it. GO figure. Like working on the newer stuff is so much easier?

 

if you can ry t heat around the bolt and hit the head of he bolt with a hammer that may loosen the rust and help break the bolt lose

 

My experience with these bolts is that coolant leaks through the factory gasket and down the bolt hole through the timing cover which exaggerates the reaction from dissimilar metals (steel bolt n aluminum cover). Also happens with the four end bolts on the intake manifold. 90% of the bolts snap due to seizing inside the hole, not rusting to the block (or head for the intake). Some are too far gone to save and are rusted to the steel.

What I've started doing is first use steady pressure to see if they will come loose without messing with them. Don't HeMan it or they'll snap for sure. If they don't loosen, I drill 3-4 1/8" holes (1 for the intake bolts) perpendicular through the cover into the bolt hole, 2 on top and 1-2 on bottom. Use carb cleaner to flush some of the junk out then soak with your favorite penetrating oil. I also use a torch to heat the area around the bolt and block to help wick the oil in. Rinse and repeat a few times as you try to turn the bolt just enough to wiggle it. Soon you'll be able to spray carb cleaner in one hole and have it come out another. Soak with oil again, add a touch of heat and the bolt should come out.

Of course this isn't a garantee, but sure worth a try as they usually snap close to the block making removal of the remains difficult, or in the middle of the cover making it difficult to remove the cover at all.

Replace the bolt if it's significantly deteriated and coat them with anti seize to reduce the effects for the next time.