OT: Ron Covell on F&L!
#17
AX, where they do this is out in the woods with nothing but a shelter and fireplace. They can only use the "tools of the day" with the only thing modern being aluminum in place of copper.
I like the idea of the torpedo mallet. That they could use. The only heat would have to come from fire. They do have a pair of farrier tongs they could use to hold the aluminum in the heat.
I also like the idea of clamping a retainer ring over the metal. It would certainly help maintain a clean rim. We have some "authentic" clamps that would work well. (or just some screws with wing-nuts)
The punch you described would basically be like 6" off the end of an old shovel handle.
Thanks for the suggestions. Sometimes we get caught up in "the way we've always done it" and don't look for new ideas.
I like the idea of the torpedo mallet. That they could use. The only heat would have to come from fire. They do have a pair of farrier tongs they could use to hold the aluminum in the heat.
I also like the idea of clamping a retainer ring over the metal. It would certainly help maintain a clean rim. We have some "authentic" clamps that would work well. (or just some screws with wing-nuts)
The punch you described would basically be like 6" off the end of an old shovel handle.
Thanks for the suggestions. Sometimes we get caught up in "the way we've always done it" and don't look for new ideas.
#18
What about providing the aluminum already annealed? Punch could be an old hammer handle, or even a peeled and shaped section of a hardwood tree branch. Could be rounded with a knife and smoothed by rubbing on a rock. The best shape for the punch end would be rounded to same or slightly smaller radius as the inside of the bowl form. I've done a lot of this type of wood die forming in making jewelry.
An aluminum alloy will anneal when quenched.....so have the kids put it in the fire for a few minutes then drop in in a bucket of cold water. Most of the alloys will age harden pretty quickly when sitting at room temperature, so pre-doing the annealing won't work very well. It also work hardens, so it will toughen up after some pounding with the hammer. If that happens, back to the fire & quench again. The "official" annealing temp is around 900F for an hour, so it would need to be on the hot coals for a while....then as quickly as possible...into the cold water. If the metal is heated through, it will soften quite a bit when quenched. Aluminum behaves differently than steel for annealing.
If you are having them go old-school, my experience with Boy Scouts is that anything dealing with the fire is a big hit. Hammers will bring out the best in a kid as well!!
Dan
#21
I happened to watch both episodes of the C-10 build last night and Ron was not on either one of them, are you sure that was the episode? I record the show on the DVR so I have them to watch when I get time. I will keep watching though.
The Cattlemen's Ball C-10 had a flat stock hood, matter of fact, it was a big bone of contention between Casey(the painter) and Aaron because it came back from the blaster warped and Casey wanted a replacement hood.
The Cattlemen's Ball C-10 had a flat stock hood, matter of fact, it was a big bone of contention between Casey(the painter) and Aaron because it came back from the blaster warped and Casey wanted a replacement hood.
#22
I happened to watch both episodes of the C-10 build last night and Ron was not on either one of them, are you sure that was the episode? I record the show on the DVR so I have them to watch when I get time. I will keep watching though.
The Cattlemen's Ball C-10 had a flat stock hood, matter of fact, it was a big bone of contention between Casey(the painter) and Aaron because it came back from the blaster warped and Casey wanted a replacement hood.
The Cattlemen's Ball C-10 had a flat stock hood, matter of fact, it was a big bone of contention between Casey(the painter) and Aaron because it came back from the blaster warped and Casey wanted a replacement hood.
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