Air bags on front
#1
Air bags on front
Anyone do this? Or know of it being done?
Looking at this on a 2000 V10
Have less then 1/2" of clearance on the bump stop and its driving my nuts on the steering wander and crap.
Thought about the V code swap but for the ease of the air bags and same cost!! Makes me wonder
Looking at this on a 2000 V10
Have less then 1/2" of clearance on the bump stop and its driving my nuts on the steering wander and crap.
Thought about the V code swap but for the ease of the air bags and same cost!! Makes me wonder
#2
IMO, spring swap is a better solution that just air bags. I say this based on my experience with my rear (Modded B) springs.
I did the V/Modded B swap...the swaps eliminated the steering wander, but since I carry a bunch of weight in the back all the time AND tow some decent weight AND have a longer-than-usual hitch setup, I was still getting nearly 2" of sag when towing.
The fix was to add air bags to the rear...15psi not towing, 60 psi towing.
I'd base my comparison on the rear towing vs non-towing...just think if I'm not happy with the Modded B's towing and added air bags, similar to you not happy with your front stock springs and adding air bags.
If I air up my bags with no trailer, the rear feels WAAAY too stiff...and I think it puts more pressure on the tires over bumps (with the suspension not giving as much so the pressure goes to the only place it can - the tire sidewalls).
The problem (I think) is that air bags alone don't have much room to suck up the travel needed on your suspension where springs do. The material the air bags are made out of just doesn't give (by design) and the air inside (already compressed) doesn't compress further in the same rate that the spring can absorb the load.
I think of it as the air bags being raw lift with very little 'give'...where springs provide raw lift and "give"
You can probably get a set of V codes for about the same amount or less than a good air bag setup (I'm assuming you have a 4x4 with leaf springs and not the 2x4 model with coils).
It's easier to do (bags), but personally I'd worry it might make your front end feel too stiff.
Maybe someone else who has actually done air bags up front can chime in...
I did the V/Modded B swap...the swaps eliminated the steering wander, but since I carry a bunch of weight in the back all the time AND tow some decent weight AND have a longer-than-usual hitch setup, I was still getting nearly 2" of sag when towing.
The fix was to add air bags to the rear...15psi not towing, 60 psi towing.
I'd base my comparison on the rear towing vs non-towing...just think if I'm not happy with the Modded B's towing and added air bags, similar to you not happy with your front stock springs and adding air bags.
If I air up my bags with no trailer, the rear feels WAAAY too stiff...and I think it puts more pressure on the tires over bumps (with the suspension not giving as much so the pressure goes to the only place it can - the tire sidewalls).
The problem (I think) is that air bags alone don't have much room to suck up the travel needed on your suspension where springs do. The material the air bags are made out of just doesn't give (by design) and the air inside (already compressed) doesn't compress further in the same rate that the spring can absorb the load.
I think of it as the air bags being raw lift with very little 'give'...where springs provide raw lift and "give"
You can probably get a set of V codes for about the same amount or less than a good air bag setup (I'm assuming you have a 4x4 with leaf springs and not the 2x4 model with coils).
It's easier to do (bags), but personally I'd worry it might make your front end feel too stiff.
Maybe someone else who has actually done air bags up front can chime in...
#4
Awesome reply! Thank you
My main reason for this is to get a better ride on the front
I do tow, and there is some sag but non that I have really worried about.
I used to tow the same boat with 1/2tons and they all had bags.
So I am familiar with the way they work and such.
One thing you mention, about being to stiff. That is my concern doing the V code springs.
I can get a pair of v codes locally for about $265. Plus the cost of new bolts, u-bolts etc.
I can get the Air springs for $311, with a $50 rebate that ends tomorrow.
So the bags are cheaper and easier, but are they the 'answer'.
I want control, support, and drivibilty. I do not really need the 'support' that bags give.
But I was reading about a full air bag suspension setup for $1400!!! that is just about the same thing.
I have thought about adding bags to the rear next year only because we plan on a couple cross country boat trips out west.
My main reason for this is to get a better ride on the front
I do tow, and there is some sag but non that I have really worried about.
I used to tow the same boat with 1/2tons and they all had bags.
So I am familiar with the way they work and such.
One thing you mention, about being to stiff. That is my concern doing the V code springs.
I can get a pair of v codes locally for about $265. Plus the cost of new bolts, u-bolts etc.
I can get the Air springs for $311, with a $50 rebate that ends tomorrow.
So the bags are cheaper and easier, but are they the 'answer'.
I want control, support, and drivibilty. I do not really need the 'support' that bags give.
But I was reading about a full air bag suspension setup for $1400!!! that is just about the same thing.
I have thought about adding bags to the rear next year only because we plan on a couple cross country boat trips out west.
IMO, spring swap is a better solution that just air bags. I say this based on my experience with my rear (Modded B) springs.
I did the V/Modded B swap...the swaps eliminated the steering wander, but since I carry a bunch of weight in the back all the time AND tow some decent weight AND have a longer-than-usual hitch setup, I was still getting nearly 2" of sag when towing.
The fix was to add air bags to the rear...15psi not towing, 60 psi towing.
I'd base my comparison on the rear towing vs non-towing...just think if I'm not happy with the Modded B's towing and added air bags, similar to you not happy with your front stock springs and adding air bags.
If I air up my bags with no trailer, the rear feels WAAAY too stiff...and I think it puts more pressure on the tires over bumps (with the suspension not giving as much so the pressure goes to the only place it can - the tire sidewalls).
The problem (I think) is that air bags alone don't have much room to suck up the travel needed on your suspension where springs do. The material the air bags are made out of just doesn't give (by design) and the air inside (already compressed) doesn't compress further in the same rate that the spring can absorb the load.
I think of it as the air bags being raw lift with very little 'give'...where springs provide raw lift and "give"
You can probably get a set of V codes for about the same amount or less than a good air bag setup (I'm assuming you have a 4x4 with leaf springs and not the 2x4 model with coils).
It's easier to do (bags), but personally I'd worry it might make your front end feel too stiff.
Maybe someone else who has actually done air bags up front can chime in...
I did the V/Modded B swap...the swaps eliminated the steering wander, but since I carry a bunch of weight in the back all the time AND tow some decent weight AND have a longer-than-usual hitch setup, I was still getting nearly 2" of sag when towing.
The fix was to add air bags to the rear...15psi not towing, 60 psi towing.
I'd base my comparison on the rear towing vs non-towing...just think if I'm not happy with the Modded B's towing and added air bags, similar to you not happy with your front stock springs and adding air bags.
If I air up my bags with no trailer, the rear feels WAAAY too stiff...and I think it puts more pressure on the tires over bumps (with the suspension not giving as much so the pressure goes to the only place it can - the tire sidewalls).
The problem (I think) is that air bags alone don't have much room to suck up the travel needed on your suspension where springs do. The material the air bags are made out of just doesn't give (by design) and the air inside (already compressed) doesn't compress further in the same rate that the spring can absorb the load.
I think of it as the air bags being raw lift with very little 'give'...where springs provide raw lift and "give"
You can probably get a set of V codes for about the same amount or less than a good air bag setup (I'm assuming you have a 4x4 with leaf springs and not the 2x4 model with coils).
It's easier to do (bags), but personally I'd worry it might make your front end feel too stiff.
Maybe someone else who has actually done air bags up front can chime in...
#5
!!!! Ok! Agreed!
This was my thought years ago when I wanted to do something.
Have really not driven it much in the last few years, maybe 5,000.
But with a few trips planned next year and the fact I had to drive it last month for 3 weeks straight made me realize I need to do something about it!.
This was my thought years ago when I wanted to do something.
Have really not driven it much in the last few years, maybe 5,000.
But with a few trips planned next year and the fact I had to drive it last month for 3 weeks straight made me realize I need to do something about it!.
#6
I'd hate to see you go air bags in front without someone else being able to speak to the (perceived) ride first when so many others have done the V/B or shackle lift fix to the front.
If I saw as many other threads doing air up front I'd say it's 6 to one half dozen so go with your gut...but with very few threads of front air, there isn't a lot of anecdotal stuff to help you make your decision.
#7
That's another option I didn't see anyone speak about - shackle lift on the front. Brent did it and not sure how many others.
That's the cheapest fix you'll find, but there is the old "perceived" ride issue that separates the camps.
Those that love the ride (when not banging the bump stops) say "why stiffen the springs when a shackle lift gets you the clearance and saves the stock ride?"
Those that want it to feel a bit more stiff up front (like a truck vs. an SUV) will say "why not get lift and stiffness over stock instead of just lift and a soft ride?"
I'm the latter camp - I felt the stock springs felt more like an old Lincoln than any kind of truck or SUV...so I went with the springs. It cost more, but I got my clearance back and a sturdier ride. Not saying the former camp is wrong, just a different POU ('philosophy of use').
That's the cheapest fix you'll find, but there is the old "perceived" ride issue that separates the camps.
Those that love the ride (when not banging the bump stops) say "why stiffen the springs when a shackle lift gets you the clearance and saves the stock ride?"
Those that want it to feel a bit more stiff up front (like a truck vs. an SUV) will say "why not get lift and stiffness over stock instead of just lift and a soft ride?"
I'm the latter camp - I felt the stock springs felt more like an old Lincoln than any kind of truck or SUV...so I went with the springs. It cost more, but I got my clearance back and a sturdier ride. Not saying the former camp is wrong, just a different POU ('philosophy of use').
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#8
#9
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: chicago northwest suburbs
Posts: 2,097
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I'm still running my stock springs. Yes the front axle sets on or just a hair off the front axle, which is the way it was built from the factory. The bump stop is actually part of the suspension! I'm running air bags on the rear along with a Hellwig rear sway bar. The sway bar was the single biggest fix for the wander the X has. I've been running this setup since 2006 and 65k miles, 20k of which are towing a 9200lb 32 ft TT!
I am very happy with how the X handles!
I am very happy with how the X handles!
#10
If you have 1/2 inch clearance, or closer, you are riding on the bump stops when you sit in the vehicle, or drive it, or steer it, or stop it. Not how it was designed from the factory. You will see that on the K series Chevy or GMC with the torsion bars on the IFS four wheel drive axle. That was designed that way.
On ours the correct fix is to lift (to stock height or greater) and replace the bump stops. My Icon spring pack has many thinner springs and offers a good ride and lift with a larger number of springs. New bump stops and re-locaters for them.
Friends don't let friends ride on bump stops.
On ours the correct fix is to lift (to stock height or greater) and replace the bump stops. My Icon spring pack has many thinner springs and offers a good ride and lift with a larger number of springs. New bump stops and re-locaters for them.
Friends don't let friends ride on bump stops.
#13
#15
I took off our bump stops for now. We couldn't stand banging against them anymore. I examined all the clearances, and nothing is hitting. Put new KYB gasajust shocks on and it rides pretty good. We are going to put the Pro Comp springs on it eventually. (or something similar). Just make sure you check for clearance on YOUR EX if you take the bump stops off. It isn't a permanent fix, but we couldn't stand driving it anymore.