I want factory hydro on my 79 f250
#1
#2
Prolly more plentiful than a Ford system....
#3
I have seen the 3 army bronco crows go that route and ebay has the conversion parts off the cheavy. I really want to go full Ford if possible. I hear the 90s f250 came with it. I like the fact I could get a rebuilt lifetime warranty unit from Auto zone. Just need to know what the donor is so I can get the bracketry. All else will be new or rebuilt. I have a unit off a Lincoln that has the aluminum MC but think the bore is too small for this heavy a vehicle.
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#5
I have seen the 3 army bronco crows go that route and ebay has the conversion parts off the cheavy. I really want to go full Ford if possible. I hear the 90s f250 came with it. I like the fact I could get a rebuilt lifetime warranty unit from Auto zone. Just need to know what the donor is so I can get the bracketry. All else will be new or rebuilt. I have a unit off a Lincoln that has the aluminum MC but think the bore is too small for this heavy a vehicle.
I see you're in Clovis. In that case, consider heading up to the Pick N Pull's Premier yard in Stockton... it's right off Hwy 99. There they have 2005 and newer cars and trucks... prolly find a set-up like psychlopath's.
It's probably a good place to do some homework like measurements, connections, etc. even if ya don't find the parts.
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Jeff's Bronco Graveyard offers a system.
'Found this post with PNs: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-brakes.html
'Found this post with PNs: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-brakes.html
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#8
Just a perspective... The OE power setup, especially with 2 pot calipers, works pretty well IMO (with near stock tire size). If the pedal is "squeechy" bleed brakes first to make sure there is not air in the system. If still soft, its likely the MC. If running big diameter tires, higher brake pressure with hydroboost can help.
Either way, a first step is to make sure the brakes at each corner + lines are in good shape. Hydroboost will not fix basic brake problems. Check hard and flex lines also.
Either way, a first step is to make sure the brakes at each corner + lines are in good shape. Hydroboost will not fix basic brake problems. Check hard and flex lines also.
#9
Oddfordjunkie helped me with mine. To keep it as "factory" as possible, you need parts off an early 90s F-superduty. These are the 10 lug dually 2wd work trucks. On mine, I had to flip the firewall bracket over and trim a little bit. The push rod length is right. For the hoses, I just took all my old stuff to a hose place and they swaged on everything to make both the 70s and the 90s stuff work.
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Here's a few pics:
This is the first line from the pump. The hose clamp is on the return line:
This shows how I barely trimmed the bracket to clear the firewall rib:
The second line in the setup goes from the HB to the steering box:
In this pic, the line in the forefront is the one going from the pump to the HB, and the "T" is the 2 return lines-one from the HB and one from the steering box:
This is the first line from the pump. The hose clamp is on the return line:
This shows how I barely trimmed the bracket to clear the firewall rib:
The second line in the setup goes from the HB to the steering box:
In this pic, the line in the forefront is the one going from the pump to the HB, and the "T" is the 2 return lines-one from the HB and one from the steering box:
#12
Thanks for all chiming in. B and W My MC is leaking at the back dripping fluid down the booster. I knew from thje get go there had been leaking prior to be getting the truck as the paint on the booster below the MC was blistered and wrinkled indicative of leaking. The pedal went to the floor 4-5 days ago scaring the crap out of me. luckily I do give those few extra feet to be cautious and I did not hit anything. It is going soft now first with it going to the bottom at a long light. I have bigger tires now but I replaced the entire front braking system except for the brake lines as those were good stilla dn those will be changed out when I do rear discs. I figure if I have to replace maybe going this route from the get go. I price a booster MC combo at O'reilleys for $110 out the door so I know I can go that route even cheaper but let me price it out thru my source for the hydro and I think I will proabbly go that route. To all I have the factory PS and A/C bracketry. I would like to go the Saginaw style pump with the metal reservoir with the slightly slanted neck to quite this truck down a bit. The one on my 74 Bronco was off a 2000' superduty. no hydro though is there and animal out there that will suit this conversion in the pump dept. that will also keep a stock type pump rather than the serp. belt ?
#13
If you mean swap to the Saginaw pump AND keep your V-belts, any of the pumps can do that. Just put a V-belt pulley on it. A ton of generic ones from Summit, Jegs or Napa will work. It's very likely (In my experience) that your stock pulley will work on a Saginaw pump...or maybe I misunderstood your last post.
#14
It sure sounds like your MC is shot. External leaks and internal leaks (pedal drops). You will need one with hydroboost anyhow. New replacement for my '78 F250 was ~$45 at AZ. Has worked fine for 3 years or so. Just have to wiggle the cap around before putting the bail over it to get the gasket to seat and seal... which seems like a common problem.
#15
The pedal going down is actually the booster, not the MC. I have had this same problem. My advice would be to buy a 1 ton MC (so it is new) and get hydroboost. Pricing is something like this:
MC-$10-20
HB-$50
Rebuilt lines- $100
I didn't swap in a sag pump, so I can't say, but my reman was $55, IIRC.
MC-$10-20
HB-$50
Rebuilt lines- $100
I didn't swap in a sag pump, so I can't say, but my reman was $55, IIRC.