coil wire connector breaking contact?

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Old 10-06-2014, 02:07 PM
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coil wire connector breaking contact?

have been having intermittent stalling and no start issues for a while. Thought all was fixed a couple of weeks ago but issue has returned and it seems to be related to the coil to distributor wire connector (at coil).

Over the past year I have replaced the plugs and wires, coil, ignition module, distributor cap and rotor.

My coil mounting bracket is simply a metal ring that the coil sits in with no positive restraint to movement up and down. I have some rough roads I drive on here and wonder if that would cause the connector to come loose? Tried putting a wire tie around the coil below the bracket to stop upward movement but that doesn't seem to have worked.

Any suggestions will be welcome!

Thanks in advance
 
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Old 10-06-2014, 06:53 PM
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If this is the 85, the parts stores sell a new horseshoe connector with short wires coming out of it that you can splice into your harness and plug into the coil. You do have the duraspark II coil with the smooth pins correct?
 
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Old 10-06-2014, 10:11 PM
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Yes it is the 85 with duraspark II. I'll check with the parts store tomorrow for the horseshoe connector. Thanks for the help!

Is it the usual set up for the coil to just sit loosely in the metal bracket?
 
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:44 PM
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No. They would not let it vibrate around in the bracket. That's another reason to see if you have the correct coil(besides have to have the right pins on the coil).
 
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:13 PM
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Dave,
Finally received new horseshoe connector yesterday - installing it today.
Updates - On closer inspection, the coil mounting bracket is ok except the bolt and nut were missing that compress the bracket to hold the coil tightly. I have replaced these and the coil is now secure.
Checking input voltage today I realize that I have 12+ volts to the coil with key in run position. Does this mean my ballast resistor wire needs to be replaced, or would installing separate resistor be ok (probably easier!) I think the ohms are around 1.3 ?
This the DS II coil with the two smooth top contacts. The contacts in the old horseshoe connector look pretty beat up! Can you think of anything else I should be checking?
Appreciate your help!
Chuck M.
 
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Old 10-10-2014, 03:03 PM
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Check the coil voltage with the truck running. If the ignition box is not working, the voltage on the coil + can "float up" to 12v. You need it running to make sure you have around 9v or so when there is a load on the coil circuit.

If you still have around 12v, then yes you can buy one of those large white resistors made usually for Chrysler products, and mount it somewhere under the hood and run the coil supply through it.
 
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Old 10-10-2014, 04:35 PM
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Checked coil supply while running and voltage only dropped to 11.1 volts. Looks like another to parts store for an inline resistor. I also removed the noise suppressor capacitor during the install. Don't use the radio anyway.
Thanks again for your help!
 
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Old 10-10-2014, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by plowboy12
I also removed the noise suppressor capacitor during the install. Don't use the radio anyway.
Do a favor for those that share the road with you and do use a radio, replace the capacitor. Nothing worse than sitting at a long light with a car next to you zapping out your tunes.
 
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Old 10-10-2014, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by plowboy12
Checked coil supply while running and voltage only dropped to 11.1 volts. Looks like another to parts store for an inline resistor. I also removed the noise suppressor capacitor during the install. Don't use the radio anyway.
Thanks again for your help!
Has this truck had any wiring done? It's unusual for the resistor not to be in the circuit. It's made into the harness.
 
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