coil wire connector breaking contact?
#1
coil wire connector breaking contact?
have been having intermittent stalling and no start issues for a while. Thought all was fixed a couple of weeks ago but issue has returned and it seems to be related to the coil to distributor wire connector (at coil).
Over the past year I have replaced the plugs and wires, coil, ignition module, distributor cap and rotor.
My coil mounting bracket is simply a metal ring that the coil sits in with no positive restraint to movement up and down. I have some rough roads I drive on here and wonder if that would cause the connector to come loose? Tried putting a wire tie around the coil below the bracket to stop upward movement but that doesn't seem to have worked.
Any suggestions will be welcome!
Thanks in advance
Over the past year I have replaced the plugs and wires, coil, ignition module, distributor cap and rotor.
My coil mounting bracket is simply a metal ring that the coil sits in with no positive restraint to movement up and down. I have some rough roads I drive on here and wonder if that would cause the connector to come loose? Tried putting a wire tie around the coil below the bracket to stop upward movement but that doesn't seem to have worked.
Any suggestions will be welcome!
Thanks in advance
#2
#3
#4
#5
Dave,
Finally received new horseshoe connector yesterday - installing it today.
Updates - On closer inspection, the coil mounting bracket is ok except the bolt and nut were missing that compress the bracket to hold the coil tightly. I have replaced these and the coil is now secure.
Checking input voltage today I realize that I have 12+ volts to the coil with key in run position. Does this mean my ballast resistor wire needs to be replaced, or would installing separate resistor be ok (probably easier!) I think the ohms are around 1.3 ?
This the DS II coil with the two smooth top contacts. The contacts in the old horseshoe connector look pretty beat up! Can you think of anything else I should be checking?
Appreciate your help!
Chuck M.
Finally received new horseshoe connector yesterday - installing it today.
Updates - On closer inspection, the coil mounting bracket is ok except the bolt and nut were missing that compress the bracket to hold the coil tightly. I have replaced these and the coil is now secure.
Checking input voltage today I realize that I have 12+ volts to the coil with key in run position. Does this mean my ballast resistor wire needs to be replaced, or would installing separate resistor be ok (probably easier!) I think the ohms are around 1.3 ?
This the DS II coil with the two smooth top contacts. The contacts in the old horseshoe connector look pretty beat up! Can you think of anything else I should be checking?
Appreciate your help!
Chuck M.
#6
Check the coil voltage with the truck running. If the ignition box is not working, the voltage on the coil + can "float up" to 12v. You need it running to make sure you have around 9v or so when there is a load on the coil circuit.
If you still have around 12v, then yes you can buy one of those large white resistors made usually for Chrysler products, and mount it somewhere under the hood and run the coil supply through it.
If you still have around 12v, then yes you can buy one of those large white resistors made usually for Chrysler products, and mount it somewhere under the hood and run the coil supply through it.
#7
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#8
Do a favor for those that share the road with you and do use a radio, replace the capacitor. Nothing worse than sitting at a long light with a car next to you zapping out your tunes.
#9
Has this truck had any wiring done? It's unusual for the resistor not to be in the circuit. It's made into the harness.
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