there is a book that tells you how to do it? wow

 

OK i did a fuel pressure test and got 32psi at an idle and 38psi at wot so i dont think it's fuel. i did clean the throttle body but not the intake how do i tell if it's an injector? or the pickup in the dist? and when i did the koer test when i did the wot it pinged and knocked like crazy

 

Sorry, misunderstood. I thought you had said you had a code reader so I was thinking of the instruction booklet that comes with one.

 

autoxray and it didn't have a book and the screen just says dynamic response

 

There is a specific sequence of actions that the operator must take duiring the testing of the EEC-IV. One is the full throttle blip, and it is jut a blip; stab the throttle and let go. The other is to cycle the OD lockout if so equipped. As Subford was pointing out, it will throw a code. Does the autoxray walk you through the steps on the screen? Nice looking unit BTW.

 

the autoxray I have is old from around 1998 and all it tells you is dynamic response and the rest is up to you and there was very little in the instructions that came with it

 

I don't know if this will be much help for you or not. This is the KEOR test procedure for the Innova 3145 code reader. I am quite new to this stuff, but my guess is that the EEC-IV computer is going to perform a fixed set of test steps and the reader is just catching the codes thrown by the computer. Therefore, the KEOR test procedure will be the same regardless of the reader being used. Of course I could also be all wet.




Innova 3145 KOER Test

 

thanks for that info the instructions for mine did not tell you very much and i will try that tomorrow. but it still runs like its a bad erg valve

 

wow no one is coming up with any ideas help please I'm lost

 

can you make it pop while idling. was the fuel pressure check while it was popping or driving down the road. do you have a volt meter and a test light or thing of the like. if its an injector it should show up on a flow test or you could do a cylinder balance test to isolate it to one cylinder or all of them to get a better idea were to look. sorry to but in guys. so are you saying the egr is not working causing a lean condition or a stuck egr.

 

first yes i have the tools and i can't make it do it at an idle, I've put a new egr in it and the fuel pressure was in the driveway and it feels like it is the egr and a loss of power going up hill.

 

take your egr valve vacuum link off and then drive it around and see if it still sounds like its detonating. then assuming that shows nothing take a vacuum pump plenty of appropriately sized vacuum hose and apply a small amount of vacuum to the valve and try and accelerate up a hill or part throttle with the valve open and see what happens. have you had a look at the spark plugs yet.

 

i was thinking about doing the vacuum hose off of it and driving it to see if that is it. i put 4 new plugs in it last week they were fine but smelled a little gassy but i changed them anyway (i did the easy ones) the wires and plugs are about 2 years old but I've been changing everything because of it running bad

 

OK i took off the vacuum hose to the erg and drove it and at first it was good and than it started missing again. its almost like its fuel but it does it on both tanks. i guess I'm going to have to tape a fuel pressure gauge to my wind shield

 

so does it run good cold what is operating temp