wq59b if you could somehow take a picture of how your manuel shift unit is set up. on my truck arm is still in cab but nothing is hookup too it. the cab had been changed and 2 speed rear end too. i had a vacumm operated switch in the dash. so on my rear end i got a diaphram operated 2 speed. since i want to have mine manuel ,i would like too see what the original system look like. it would be great if you could take a few picture of the linkage and of how it hooks on the rear end. i,m in no hurray ! thanks and good luck in your project.

 

^ Will get some pics in the next few days.

Here's one of the rear drums after cleaning it up- in really good shape, happily. Some staining, but eyes closed it's smooth as glass:


Took rear cover off, wow; the filth.


I'm still giggling; 'got me a 6-bolt rear'.
Going to do my best in cleaning/ flushing it out. Manual mentions using 'light engine oil' or 'flushing oil'… anyone care to chime in on the best fluid to use?

Another, hopefully not-too-dumb question; do the wheel bearings bathe in gear oil only, or do they also get grease? Are these bearings relatively loose in their cages vs. more modern tapered rollers? The ends of the rollers look new (recessed centers in sharp relief), but they have more movement than the (postwar car) bearings I'm used to.

 

The wheel bearings should be packed with grease. Kerosene works well for flushing the differential.
Mark

 

Marvel mystery oil would be a good choice too. Ideal in my opinion would be one trip with kerosene to flush loose gunk and rusty junk, next trip with MMO and drain. If a gallon of MMO is to expensive, go 50/50 with cheap motor oil on the second one. The marvel is a fine oil and has good cleaning properties.

 

Use bearing grease. Anything else will melt away.

 

I wouldn't run straight kerosene, you want a bit of lubrication. I'd use 50 / 50 kerosene and automatic transmission fluid (ATF has a lot of cleaners in it).

 

I picked up some 90/140 gear oil for when all done.

I'll go with one of the above recipes. Definitely like the multiple flushes theory- it's so funky in there. Praise Eaton for that bottom drain plug!

 

I'm a middle child and want everyone to be happy and get along... Here's what to use... One part kerosene, one part MMo, one part motor oil, one part ATF and a splash of 90-140 gear lube. Rinse, lather and repeat. Then refill with a 50/50 mixture of 90 w and 90-140 wt. It will be perfect.

 

You guys are posting some great info on the Eaton 2-speeds! I plan to swap the Eaton from my parts truck to my project truck. The parts truck has no motor so I don't know if the axle operates or not - hopefully it is good.

 

What's the consensus on using Brake Kleen- thinking the 'jet action' of a pressure spray would work well to dislodge a lot. The carrier is pretty snug in the housing and I'm not finding it easy to get to much beyond it.

 

Spray away! What could go wrong after all that lubrication action takes place?

 

I also use starting fluid as a solvent, mostly because I find it doesn't mess up my skin as bad as brake cleaner. Also it is relatively cheap, particularly the house brand at my local auto parts store.

 

Started the cleaning process with brake keen, nasty stuff, need very good ventilation.

Bernette- here's a pic of the manual shift section of the rear on my truck, and the linkage end (hope it shows you something useful):





Here' the rear ratio, stamped at 12 o'clock on the front face of the pumpkin:

 

yes it helps thanks. does that rod have a pivot point somewhere in the middle. seems it would be a long rod with out some kind of pivot or support of some kind. thanks really appreciate !

 

There is a bracket hung off the chassis crossmember, in front of the rear axle, that supports the rod right where it converts to the 'cabled' section as shown above. Other than that, the next attachment point is under the cab where the linkage pivots.