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The P1000 just means that the readiness check has not finished.
It X number for drive cycles to finish that. Has nothing to do
what so ever with the scan tool.
It's usually something that is buried in the service manuals.
You can even sort of force it by driving a certain way so that
all the needed steps and tests are completed. Then if they all
pass your good and it goes away. If not it posts a code and what not.
The reason is so that someone does not come into the test station
and unhook the battery and clear a code so they can pass. Yes they
clear the code but then they set the P1000 and the station won't pass
then because of that.
I think I would start checking the harness and plugs.
Watching the voltage and live signals would also be good.
If you can watch the signal and it good try wiggling one wire at a time
and see if it drops out at any point. Look for places where things
cross over the harness or it takes sharp bends.
Alright, thanks Sean. Me and my step dad planned to test the signals and voltage but it turns out, my multimeter grew legs and walked away... I forgot where I used it last. His multimeter doesn't work half the time. Luckily mine was a cheapie from HF. I just have to look some more and see if I left in the garage. After those codes, I still sort of believe the MAF is hammered.
There is supposed to be a way to see if it's the MAF similar to testing a tps. Get the multimeter on it, then fire up the truck and slowly increase the throttle. As the voltage goes up if it suddenly gets erratic, then the sensor is toast. If the sensor is toast instead of forking out $99 for a new one, I'll actually utilize the junkyard service
From checking on rockauto there is 3 different motorcraft MAF sensors available for Dylans 4.2 V6. They also have core charges. I would be more inclined to be local because of this.
So the old air filter caught fire? What was the cause of that and it may have to do with the problems the truck has.
Do you know what the interchange is on that MAF? Could you jerk the one off the Mustang just to test it on the truck? (doubt it)
Long story short, truck wouldn't start, I applied starting fluid, used too much and it backfired through the intake and caught the filter on a fire. The MAF is located right in front of the filter. The mustang is OBD1 so it doesn't have a maf sensor.
Bently I looked at RA, and other places. I'll try my luck at a junkyard if I can snag one for $10. Worse comes to worse I but a new one online or in store. My scanner should be at the house now so I can see what that tells me in the morning.
If you get one at P&P just have them mark it in case it's the wrong one or doesn't work, in which case you return for store credit and grab another one.
I might have a K&N filter for that, would need a picture of it and then to check my hoard of junk.
Same thing I have and pulled out. Didn't like how much sand got by from one trip to the beach and from reading here K&N filters do not filter as much as they should. Which is not good for MAF setups.
Actually I bought a new Motorcraft one for like, $11 or something. I picked it up when I got a fuel filter for it. I'll probably take my maf back out and bring it, I'll be honest, my step dad may have ruined the current one. He used a torch. Basically Ford put a melted plastic cap on one screw for the sensor and my step dad decided to use a propane torch to try melting it and ended up melting a little bit of the housing. I suggested using a soldering iron to try to melt it but we couldn't find it till after he used a torch. Sooo basically it's hosed I think. Still have to try testing the wires and fuel pressure, I've got some time off for xmas so I can do some tests.
Yup. I had plans to keep it, it's comfortable to drive, quite, and all around easy. But I've got 2 project vehicles, the money from this would fund a nice T-5 for my mustang so I can actually shift properly. Maybe even fund an engine rebuild or crate motor.
12-21-2014, 03:20 PM
