I don't see how over-torquing one bearing cap could lead to the engine being "too-tight." I would pull the plugs, put a socket on the damper bolt and turn the motor over by hand a couple of times. It should turn smoothly and easily--perhaps you can rule out the whole "too tight" red herring.

Looks to me that the starter had the wrong number of teeth to match the flywheel (there are a lot of starter/flywheel combos out there for this engine family) and bound up when engaged.

~Steve

 

Your thoughts are mine. I think he had the wrong starter or it wasn't installed properly.

Would you recommend pulling the plugs? Or would it be okay to just pull the wires?

 

You'll want to pull the plugs to test for easy rotation of the engine. With the plugs out if it doesn't rotate nice and smooth that'll be a good check.

With the plugs in you'd have a bit less feel for whether any tightness would be lower end or compression related.

 

Ah, I got ya! As soon as I am able, I will try that. I think that's what he is supposed to have "D" try, so we will see.

 

Not sure if you got this answer to one of your questions, but you do have to lift the crankshaft up some to change the rear main seal. Don't know how you'd do it without loosening and probably removing ALL the caps.

 

I appreciate the response. I have never done the rear main seal in a Ford FE.

Thanks!!

 

The more I read this the more I go ... Hmmm to myself thinking I know this tool of a mechanic . The "D' at Kwik Kar that you speak of doesn't happen to look like a younger version of Uncle Fester from the Adams Family does he ???

 

Chipped flywheel teeth is a common problem.

C5AZ-6384-A .. Flywheel Ring Gear - 184 teeth / Obsolete - Available from autoparts stores.

Applications: 1965/71 FE Passenger Cars & 1965/76 F100/350 352/360/390 all with 3 & 4 M/T

The old gear is sweated off the flywheel, the new gear is sweated on. Any autoparts machine shop can do this.

FE A/T & M/T 3 hole starter is the same: 1965/76 / 1958/64 FE starter has the Bendix gear reduction (aka inertia) type starter drive, 1958/64 FE flywheels have 148 teeth.

 

For goodness sake, STOP taking the truck to Kwik Trip. Stop trying to polish the turd. Start over.

Buy a crate motor, drop off the original motor for a pro rebuild, or do it yourself. You'll be money ahead. In my experience trying to cheap out always ends up costing more money, not to mention time and aggravation.

Sometimes it works OK, but that's not the way to bet.

 

Haha, no he does not.

 

I appreciate the response! My main question is, how many teeth is the starter supposed to have? I see the flywheel is supposed to be 184 teeth, is the starter the same? I just want to be 100% as your post is slightly confusing at the end where the starter drive is mentioned.

 

This will be ending, trust me.



A little update: Looks like he is not going to be honoring the free labor thing after I spoke with my father this evening. After the flywheel is fixed, we may buy an engine stand and do it ourselves or just take it to a good shop. We are in the DFW area, so are there any shops anyone recommends? If we do it ourselves, I will just have to borrow a hoist and buy an engine stand. We may end up doing that. Any responses, as always, are appreciated!

 

He is a CROOK
Looks like he want's you to pay for his blunders. Go see Judge Judy. Doesn't Texas have some sort of Automotive Bureau to take care of crooks like him?

 

Here we go again...

Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup

 

Just want to say I appreciate all the answers. My dad read everything you guys said and slept on it. He already had the flywheel on order, so once the flywheel comes in he told "D" to stick it in the back of the truck and we are getting it away from that shop.

I am still curious if anyone here is in the DFW area or knows of a shop in this area to recommend. Doing the work ourselves is an option, but requires an engine stand and a LOT more time.