Trozei's '69 F100 Build Thread
#841
#842
Thanks, guys. What I was referring to is that if this wasn't a practice vehicle I wouldn't have welded any more than 3/4" at a time to keep the heat effect zone really narrow. You can see in the spots that I welded for a few inches at a time that the HEZ gets much larger. I got away with it because it was 18 gauge with a nice structural bend right at the weld but if it were a flat panel it would have seriously warped, especially if it was a thinner gauge.
When my truck is in the shop the first order of business is making my front roll pan. Garrett's seen my visualization of my overall finished product and I think he'll agree that it will be pretty awesome. Think (or Google) PCH Rods C10R.
When my truck is in the shop the first order of business is making my front roll pan. Garrett's seen my visualization of my overall finished product and I think he'll agree that it will be pretty awesome. Think (or Google) PCH Rods C10R.
#845
#847
When I do body work I do ONE tack at a time at least 4 inches away from the next one. I will do them randomly as far away from the previous one as I go. Once I do my first set of tacks I set the welder down and walk away for 10 min or so then I go back and do another set. When doing body panels I never weld a bead of any length. It takes a long time to get it welded up but the results are much better than putting too much heat into the panels. Same goes with grinding the welds; don't try and grind on one area too long to get the weld down. You have to move around a lot. Grinding will easily generate enough heat to warp sheet metal as well. Trying to put a small bead or grinding too much will both cause the metal to dip at the joint.
#851
#852
#853
Got her dropped off today. It looks a little funny with the front clip resting on hockey pucks.
I have a parts request for you guys. I need a little section of the stone shield which will help a lot with my tucked roll pan. I can always fab up a section but I'd rather use OEM body lines than hope I can properly replicate them with sheet metal. If you've got one, I'll love you forever if you can send it to me. Appreciated.
I have a parts request for you guys. I need a little section of the stone shield which will help a lot with my tucked roll pan. I can always fab up a section but I'd rather use OEM body lines than hope I can properly replicate them with sheet metal. If you've got one, I'll love you forever if you can send it to me. Appreciated.
#854
#855
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
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The auto industry has had many lemons with all auto makers fords, dodge, chevy, jeeps, ect. and the ford pintos were close runner up too the Korean imported of the Yugo's.
And many of us won't buy a newer fords with them having all the V8s & 10s having spark plug thread/head problems sure don't make me want to buy any newer ford vehicles.
I have not heard of any chevy motors having spark-plug breakage/head doing this, other then their big troubles with the ignition switches.
But that don't mean they have not had other problems like the whole auto industry has with all the new models that get tested for a very short time that have failures that get fixed only as a recalls.
And many auto builders try to get out of fixing any recalls until many people have to die due to it not being fixed.
Old Iron Rules what ever it is!!!
Orich
And many of us won't buy a newer fords with them having all the V8s & 10s having spark plug thread/head problems sure don't make me want to buy any newer ford vehicles.
I have not heard of any chevy motors having spark-plug breakage/head doing this, other then their big troubles with the ignition switches.
But that don't mean they have not had other problems like the whole auto industry has with all the new models that get tested for a very short time that have failures that get fixed only as a recalls.
And many auto builders try to get out of fixing any recalls until many people have to die due to it not being fixed.
Old Iron Rules what ever it is!!!
Orich