I will say the measure any hole with a telescope gage is a learned thing. You can compare pretty easily, but to snap the gage in a bore and then measure with the corresponding mic? That takes a feel that's developed with use.

If your buying mics, get tenth reading....for this application. I like friction thimble carbide faced for my mics...but I make my living with them. I have them from 1"-12".

Fleabay.....you can source some gently used inspection equip.

 

Subscribed....

 

You a machinist Dan?

If so... I think we are multiplying on the forum lol.

I suggested the telescoping i.d. mics only because pin gauges or tri mics would probably be cost preventative for a possibly single use one time build. I do have to agree about the finess it requires using them. My thought process was... "we can get to how to use them when that bridge needs crossing" and maybe better for him to at least have them on the list if he does not have the machine shop go completely over it. Chances are the lifter ports are absolutely fine. Those bores see very little actual pressure that would cause wear. I like to air on the side of thorough lol.

Plastigauge...
Yes!
Thats what i was forgetting.
Almost impossible to get a gap reading on the mains/rod bearings without it.

I gotta rep more often... i seem to always be in jail with the usual crew lol.

 

Former Tool Maker turned into production machinist...self employed for 35 years.

 

I think it is like a badge of honor to have pulled the engine out with the front grille in place. It shows a certain finesse with an engine crane dangling more than 1.000 lbs on the end of it. In fact, when I first saw the pics, I had thought that Pikachu mounted the grille back on just for show! Now knowing that he did not, I think his man card just earned another stripe. In fact, he deserves some reps anyway. Sent.

I'm more likely to break the grille just trying to remove the grille!

Pikachu, why are you removing the second engine? It's knocking? The 2nd engine? How many miles did you get out of your 2nd engine before these photos were taken?

 

Yup, the grille stayed on! I figured since I had no intention of removing the whole header panel, I wasn't going to bother pulling the grille either. I already knew the lift would give me enough clearance to get over it, since I just went through this (seems like yesterday).

Yes, this engine has a knock and the oil analysis showed elevated iron and lead. I managed to get a whopping 2,800 miles on it before I pulled it out again. More pics to follow shortly . . .

 

Stripped the accessory brackets off . . .



Inverted on the stand.



Cutting the sealant. This is how to remove the oil pan without distorting the flange. First run a razor knife all the way around as far and as deep as possible. Some of the bolt holes will have burrs and will be impossible to get the blade past. Then insert something wide and thin (like a putty knife) between the block and pan. Run the razor knife in again and work away from the putty knife. Move the putty knife and repeat. The rounded ends of the pan have enough space to get the knife blade in without any prying. Eventually enough of the sealer will be loose that one side of the pan can be lifted up. Just keep lifting and roll the pan over the engine and the other side will break free.



There, it's off. Sorry the picture sucks



I think I'm a little concerned about the camshaft and roller followers. Anyone have any thoughts on these? The grey splotch on the cam lobe (below the bearing cap nut in the pic) is just a small piece of the pan sealant . . .



Now we get to the part everyone's been waiting for: the #8 rod bearing itself. I think I see some cavitation damage there, but I'm not certain. It could be from something else. In any event, that bearing won't be going back in.



Same bearing, different angle.



The other side of the bearing. There's one small shiny spot, I'd rather it wasn't there, but I don't think I'm terribly concerned about it.



The bearing journal. The two lines to the left of the oil passage can be felt with my fingernail, as can several others. Not drastic, but perceptible nonetheless.



Same bearing journal, different angle.



Plastigage, after torquing and removing the cap. Shows .002" clearance; not enough to cause a knock. The spec for clearance is .0015" - .0045", so well within the good side of the spec.
This is the other end of the plastigage. It also reads .002", so there's no appreciable taper wear.


That's it for today! If anyone has anything to add or suggest, particularly about the camshaft, I'm all ears

 

2800 miles on your rebuild?

The knocking... did you record it? Can you describe it? How does it compare with the various injector knocks?

Cavitation damage - oil too thin? Air introduced into oil?

 

I do not like the look of the cam and lifter rollers...esp the left one.

 

No, it wasn't a rebuild. I'd really be fuming if it was It was a salvage yard engine, with about 87k on the odometer in an F550 flatbed car hauler. The damage may or may not be cavitation, I'm leaning towards not, but I'm not sure what caused it. It may just be lack of timely oil/filter changes, but I just don't know.

 

That one caught my eye too. The wear pattern looks like there isn't much actual contact between the lobe and the roller for some reason.

 

Yeah...looks like some friction welding has occurred....metal transfer...whatever, not good.

 

Do you think there's any chance it's from lead or other metallic particles suspended in the oil that might have been compacted on there?

 

Could be lead....kinda has that color.

 

OK, so if it is not the rod bearing, then that leaves the floating pin or valve train? That cam and the followers sure don't look good. Are you going to get the crank polished or just leave it the way it, is using the old bearings if within specs? And one more thing, since the motor was used to tow with, have you thought about measuring end play on the crank? It would be wise to plasticgauge all the mains and rod bearings because of the unknown maintenance, if you are going to leave the old bearings in place.
Have you considered replacing the LPOP, pickup and balancer? And that all important rear main seal? We can spend your money really fast, it is fun! Larry