Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle

I don't have an exploded view I can email.
I don't even have any pictures I can show you right now.

If you look at the block mating surface of the rear cooler header there is a hole about 5/8" in diameter.
Down inside the hole is what looks like a flat washer with a spring below it.
That is the oil pressure regulator.

Let me walk up to the garage, I found my extra oil cooler this weekend.
I will take a coupe pictures and post back in a little bit.





Both are staked into the header adapter.
If you press on the disc in the center of the washer on the filter restriction bypass, it should move down with rather light pressure, couple pounds at best.

I have to wonder if you have something in one or both that is blocking the oil flow.

If you installed the headers not in the same plane, as soon as you bolt it on the engine they would rotate parallel from the bolt pressure.
I could actually turn mine by hand right after I put it together.

Originally Posted by PLC7.3

International (much cheaper). International parts #s are (each is a bag of 2 rings);

-thicker ring 1804414C1
-thinner ring 1807563C1

.................................................. .................................................. ..............................
Ford
1C3Z-6K649-BA O-Rings
1C3Z-6C610-BA O-Rings


Header gaskets

-E3TZ-6A636-H
-E3TZ-6A636-G

Originally Posted by WEST AUSSIE 94 250

Any help?Can email if you need just pm me with email address.

Originally Posted by damac

You can't take a hammer to it. Getting the old one apart was easy for me because it was greasy, no rust. I used a malet and put the thing in a vice with a towel on the middle tube, and slowly smacked it around and it broke free then we pulled each side apart.

Yeah ours used the 4 orings, 2 smaller black ones, 2 larger green ones. I used a couple small tubes of plumbers silicone grease that you can get at the hardware store, that will help during assembly and protect the orings instead of eat them.

Also we were feeling lucky. Cleaned everything up real good, put grease on orings and all mating surfaces and along the path things would travel during assembly. As has been mentioned on this site and others many times put the orings on the core and press the caps on one at a time.

Me and my brother used the jack underneath the trucks tow package with 2x4's up top and bottom. With 2 people so that you can keep the pieces straight while jacking! Don't try to do it alone, you could just feel it try and pop together at an angle.


Now as to how to get to it, I chose to get it out in one piece because I was freaked I would break something while prying it apart. In the end, I could have seen this working just fine because my orings were shot and it came apart pretty easy.

So by taking it out in one piece I tried to get it out without lifting the engine and I couldn't muster it. It was tight but did come out finally after I lifted the engine about an inch or so. After I got it out, I let the engine down quick because I was afraid to work near it.

I took out all the power steering pump/brackets. I took out the lower radiator hose and the neck it attaches to at the engine(note i had to install this back first before the oil cooler so you could torque the bolts down. also have to mess with raising the engine again to get your sockets in)

It was also a bear to clean the back header mating surface from underneath the truck on my back, but I did it with plastic scraper and multiple applications of gasket remover. Also it would be good to degrease the area around the mating surfaces ahead of time, it can be a real nasty mess and I would wear safety goggles!

I had to lay a moving blank down over the engine compartment and get my head in there to clean the front header area. Grueling work and it took me half a day just to clean everything up. When I was done with each area I cleaned it all with brake cleaner.

I used the felpro gasket set with no goop on the gasket and was able to torque all the bolts.

Don't seem to be having intermixing at the moment and no signs of seeping around the bolts, which I used antisieze goop on.


At the end of the day, yes it was very nasty to do, but thanks to the outlines on this forum I tackled it. As long as you have a good comfy spot to work in, the right tools, light and know you will probably get dirty, I don't think its that big of a deal at the end of the day.

If you have room underneath your truck I would get one of those roller things so you can scoot around. The grub clothes and safety goggles are good unless you like getting crap in your eyes and eating oil chunks. I also like to wear knee-pads and bunch up moving blankets when working in the engine bay, on the ground, etc.

Sorry if I am rambling, I am so tired right now. Today was u-joint day for me

Originally Posted by gonecrazyi

I didnt jack anything up when I did my cooler, didnt even take the tire off.

Heres how I did mine and it hasnt leak since did it in November.


I decided that I would try to remove the cooler without jacking up the motor or removing the power steering componants. First I drained the radiator and unbolted the brass plug on the oil cooler to drain the coolant from the block and cooler. To speed up the draining process I removed the temp sensor that is near the front of the drivers head above the exhaust manifold on the front of the motor.

After unbolting the rear header, buddy of mine used a crow bar to pry the rear header and bundle from the front header. It took about 5 minutes, to figure out where the best place to pry was, and it was apart.

This is where the fun began, I placed the bundle in a vice to hold it while it was pushed off of the bundle with a pry bar. There was pretty extensive pitting on the surfaces on the out side of the orings.

Total, I think that I had a little over an hour into sanding the rear header and bundle and another 10 minutes sanding the front header that was still bolted to the motor(leaned over tire in several awkward positions!!!). After sanding I looked in the coolant passages and found that 3 of them where plug, so the bundle went back to the vice and a rod (old cb anntena) just smaller then the passage was used to clear the debris.

Once everything was degreased again, the orings were put on and slathered with petroleum jelly. I put paper towels around the exhaust manifold and on the cross member and then fed the bundle over the cross member and into the front header where it supported itself for the time being. I then put a thin layer of black rtv on the mounting surface of the rear header before placing the gasket on it(it sat with rtv for about 30 minutes before being bolted up).

The rear header was then pushed onto the bundle. I held the bundle from outside of the fender well, while my buddy placed a piece of wood on the rear header. He used the exhaust pipe to put pressure on the wood and popped the bundle into place after a couple minutes of figting.

I then put rtv on the block for the rear header, let it set and tighted things down just a little past finger tight. After an hour of letting the rtv set we began preping the truck to be fired up.

The oil filter was put back on and the radiator filled with water. We crossed our fingers and started the truck. It idled for about 15 minutes and nothing leaked.

Overall, it wasnt that bad and only took about 4 hours after the parts and tools were collected. I think it was sanding and cleaning that took the majority of the time.

I could see this being really difficult if you were a bigger guy, but I could actually easily access everything without jacking the motor or truck up any higher then they already were. I did jack the frame up at the front shackle for a little more room though.



Also, sorry for no pics, When i'm on a roll the camera just gets in the way.

Originally Posted by The Diesel Stop; http://www.thedieselstop.com/archives/ubbthreads/73IDI/showflat.php-Cat=&Number=1828295&page=41&view=collapsed&sb=5&o= &fpart=1.htm

<table class="subjecttable" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td align="left" valign="top" width="70%"> Oil cooler part numbers and install instuctions VERY LONG!
#1828295 - 06/01/04 04:05 AM </td> <td align="right" width="30%">
</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
Well, after recently removing, rebuilding, and reinstalling the oil cooler in my 94 IDI factory turbo. I used tips from the fokes here on T. D. S. and some of my own personal experiences.

First things first. Even though you have been doing several thousand dollars a year worth of business with your local ford dealers parts department, it doesn't make a autolite bit of difference in the fact that there not the least bit competent parts men.

Second thing is make damn sure that you come armed with part numbers which I will give you below.

Now that you have gone round with the parts guys your ready to remove rebuild and reinstall you oil cooler

First thing I do when working on anything near any sort of electronics such as the TCM is to disconnect both battery grounds.

when removing the oil cooler bundle its much easier on my 2 wheel drive dually to remove the drivers side front tire and lift the engine up approximately 1.75"


To lift the motor you must first loosen the radiator shroud. I personally removed the fan clutch and shroud completely from the vehicle. but after doing so I realized that removing the fan was unnecessary and just completely unbolting the shroud would have worked fine.

Now drain the oil from the oil pan and the coolant from the radiator and block drains making sure to capture all fluids and have them properly recycled.

Next you have to remove 2 nuts that hold the motor mounts on the frame. now your ready to lift the motor

I fabricated an attachment for my floor jack that used an approximately 28" piece of 1"x1" square tube to lift the motor from a little mounting pad in the top drivers side of the transmission and lifted slowly checking clearances around body seams, wires, fuel feed and return lines and any thing else that might get in the way.

Once high enough I slipped a piece of 2x4 between the motor mound and the frame.

now your ready to unbolt the oil cooler bundle from the truck. on my particular truck the bolts were not very tight and a boxed end was all i needed 1/2" for the front bolts and 9/16 for the rear bolts. there are 4 bolts on both ends the 4 on the front are the same length but the ones on the rear are different lengths so take note of how they come out as to reinstall them in the correct positions.

now Care fully snake the cooler bundle out of the truck. This will take some patience and be careful as when you brake the seals there will be some coolant and oil that come spilling out of the cooler bundle.

Have a pan ready to put the cooler bundle in because it will continue to leak and puke fluid for some time after you remove it.

I took the time now to scribe a line and a letter A and B on both ends of the bundle so i knew which end went where when it came time to put it all back together

to remove the ends i used my bench vise with the MINIMUM amount of pressure possible to hold the bundle and tapped the ends of the bundle with a brass faced dead blow hammer but a rubber mallet would work also

I personally cleaned out the bundle with gasoline which I later burned up in a forklift I have that's seen better days to begin with and finally some carb cleaner.

After cleaning it up and inspecting it I understand now why the diesel is a $4,000 dollar option! I have been around many heat exchangers and this is one TECH little piece of hardware that's very intricately constructed!

I was amazed at how much JUNK There was clogging up the coolant tubes in my cooler. I will say at least 50% of the tubes were clogged up with either SCA chunks or pieces of either the O-ring or gasket material that was free floating in the coolant and not removed by the coolant filter.

I ended up using a piece of aluminum TIG welding rod to rod out the cooler tubes and remove the F.O.D. that was blocking the passages.

Once I roded out the tubes I flushed them in the sink in my garage with HOT running water and that seamed to do the trick. Holding it up to the light I could no see light though the full length of all the cooler tubes.

I then set the bundle aside for a bit to let all the carb cleaner and water evaporate.

Now that the block had time to drain for a bit I used a special 3M bristle type pad specifically for removing gasket material from engine blocks to clean up the block side.

After doing all the block sealing surface cleaning the cooler had plenty of time to dry out.

NOW's a good time to clean off the gasket surfaces of the cast aluminum oil cooler ends i sprayed aerosol gasket remover on the ends and used a fairly large putty knife to carefully scrape the remaining gasket off. then i used a fine scotch bright pad to remove the last bit of gasket

NOW onto installing the O-ring I coated both ends of the bundle liberally with Vaseline and sliding the O-ring on the big teal colored one-first followed by the smaller black one.

Starting with one end at a time and using two bar clamps and 2 pieces of pine to keep from marring the bundle I slowly pressed the end on tapping with the brass dead blow whenever the end was resistant to sliding.

Once getting both ends pressed back on I tested the bundle in a similar way to the pictures provided by a member on this site. 69oiler I believe.

once you have made sure that its seated all the way
And there's no chance in hell there's going to be a leak. Your ready to re install.

I started the reinstall process by first running a bead of high temp red gasket sealant down the little grove machined in to the bundle ends and the snaking the bundle back though the frame now place the gaskets on the bundle and carefully line every thing up and start all the bolts.

Once you have all the bolts in and started and made sure that the gaskets are on facing the right side with the red outlines facing the engine block and cinch every thing down fairly tight.

After letting the gasket sealer set for a while you can jack the motor back up and remove the block of wood and lower the motor back down on the mounts. Replacing the nuts holding the motor to the frame, and torqueing them down completely.

Next you can reinstall the block drains and oil pan plug and close the radiator petcock.

Now reinstall the shroud and the fan clutch if you chose to remove it.

Now you can spin on new oil and coolant filters and fill the truck with the appropriate amounts of coolant in the radiator and oil in the motor.

Re connect the grounds and fire it up now make sure and leave the radiator cap off and keep filling the radiator with water/coolant I used premix from fleetguard which made the process so much easier I ended up using just over 9 gallons spilling a little in the process.

Now let it idle observing all likely areas for leaking and checking the gauges and fluid levels.

If every thing is well then your now set for the next several hundred thousand miles.

The FORD part numbers are as follows.

F3TM-6A642-C complete new oil cooler for 7.3NA minus end gaskets the price i got with my less 20% was $285.00


FOR YOU GUYS TRULY BUILDING TURBO MOTORS!
F3TZ-6A642-G the price i got with my less 20% was $461.43

1C3Z-6K649-BA O-Rings
1C3Z-6C610-BA O-Rings

E3TZ-6A636-H Gasket
E3TZ-6A636-G Gasket



now I know I left something out and if any one else has any good tips please post them!

Special thanks to 69 oiler and Pete A.K.A. CDNSARGUY!!

Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT

so based on your last quote,someone (at the diesel stop) found the part numbers and claims:
F3TM-6A642-C = N/A
F3TZ-6A642-G = TURBO

Originally Posted by idiabuse

Is it possible to sneak the whole assembled bundle into place without touching the engine? I tried to push the bundle into the front header but a no go, so I removed it and am ready to slid it in if it is possible. Worst case I have to raise the engine?
I have a two wheel drive truck.

Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater

Here are the parts number's they're showing on Rock Auto anyway, 7.3L:

FEL-PRO Part # ES70689 Oil Cooler Mounting Set

VICTOR REINZ Part # GS33545 Material: Victo-Tech
Seal

Originally Posted by Olds64

I know this is an old thread but it's good info. I'm going to do the oil cooler on my 86 soon. Here's some more info that might help:


6.9L & 7.3L IDI Oil Cooler Rebuild/O-ring Replacement Guide

Originally Posted by ihateminimumwage

Thanks for the link, and resurrecting this thread. Mine is WAY overdue, and is leaking oil all down my axle at this point. I just keep topping it off and putting it on the back burner trying to get every other project done first.