'05 - nasty wobble when on the brakes - warped rotors...
#31
08-24-2014, 07:41 PM
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Here is an interesting write up on warped rotors. They state there is no such thing as warped rotors. However, what does happen is uneven build up of pad material on the rotor resulting in runout and thickness variations.
Here is another write up espousing similar claims.
Here is another write up espousing similar claims.
#32
08-24-2014, 07:42 PM
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Here is an interesting write up on warped rotors. They state there is no such thing as warped rotors. However, what does happen is uneven build up of pad material on the rotor resulting in runout and thickness variations.
Here is another write up espousing similar claims.
Here is another write up espousing similar claims.
#33
08-24-2014, 11:17 PM
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Sounds like your temp problem is accurately cited as being a line obstruction or caliper failure.
That said, I went through hell with the brakes on my 05 Excursion. Got Ford to replace the first set of rotors UNDER WARRANTY. They failed that bad, that quickly. That set went bad pretty quick too. I think that's actually how I found this site. The Ex guys were all swapping to Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads, and swore by them. I put them on the Ex, and had at least 60k on that set when I sold the truck last spring, and they were still going strong.
Lots of good info on the Ex pages about pulsing brakes (not warped, in 99% of cases), and how properly bedding new pads/rotors can help get good wear. I can't recommend the Powerslots/Hawk setup highly enough. My brakes took about as much abuse as you can throw at a set of truck brakes, and held up like champs.
That said, I went through hell with the brakes on my 05 Excursion. Got Ford to replace the first set of rotors UNDER WARRANTY. They failed that bad, that quickly. That set went bad pretty quick too. I think that's actually how I found this site. The Ex guys were all swapping to Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads, and swore by them. I put them on the Ex, and had at least 60k on that set when I sold the truck last spring, and they were still going strong.
Lots of good info on the Ex pages about pulsing brakes (not warped, in 99% of cases), and how properly bedding new pads/rotors can help get good wear. I can't recommend the Powerslots/Hawk setup highly enough. My brakes took about as much abuse as you can throw at a set of truck brakes, and held up like champs.
#34
08-25-2014, 05:43 AM
Here is an interesting write up on warped rotors. They state there is no such thing as warped rotors. However, what does happen is uneven build up of pad material on the rotor resulting in runout and thickness variations.
Here is another write up espousing similar claims.
Here is another write up espousing similar claims.
#35
08-25-2014, 06:35 AM
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<p>
</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Did you read all the way through the first article? In many, if not most cases, the pad material is not going to be visible. Turning the rotor is removing metal, so that's what you are going to see. That doesn't mean the well researched findings in the article are not accurate. I read this and several other detailed articles on pulsing brakes about 8 years ago in trying to solve the problem on my truck. Try to find some research to support "warped rotors." You won't. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Based on OP's temp readings though, I believe he has an underlying problem with a caliper, line, or pin that is causing the heat on one rotor, which is most likely causing pad transfer. While fixing his heat-generating problem will reduce the heat, he will likely need to address the pulsing by at replacing at least the one rotor. If budget allows, I would want to do both. Not saying that he has to use an aftermarket, slotted rotor, but I can attest to the performance I got from mine. I would also highly recommend that whatever pads and rotors he chooses, that he follow the bedding procedure in the first article. I've added that to my test drive of all of the cars and trucks I've done brakes on in the past 8 years, and have not had a problem since. I'm not saying my experience constitutes scientific research, or that it is necessarily all of these factors that have given me success, but passing on what has been my experience.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Did you read all the way through the first article? In many, if not most cases, the pad material is not going to be visible. Turning the rotor is removing metal, so that's what you are going to see. That doesn't mean the well researched findings in the article are not accurate. I read this and several other detailed articles on pulsing brakes about 8 years ago in trying to solve the problem on my truck. Try to find some research to support "warped rotors." You won't. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Based on OP's temp readings though, I believe he has an underlying problem with a caliper, line, or pin that is causing the heat on one rotor, which is most likely causing pad transfer. While fixing his heat-generating problem will reduce the heat, he will likely need to address the pulsing by at replacing at least the one rotor. If budget allows, I would want to do both. Not saying that he has to use an aftermarket, slotted rotor, but I can attest to the performance I got from mine. I would also highly recommend that whatever pads and rotors he chooses, that he follow the bedding procedure in the first article. I've added that to my test drive of all of the cars and trucks I've done brakes on in the past 8 years, and have not had a problem since. I'm not saying my experience constitutes scientific research, or that it is necessarily all of these factors that have given me success, but passing on what has been my experience.</p>
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