I got a new steering coupler rag joint in, 66 F100. It eliminated about 80 degrees of the 90 degrees "play" in the wheel.

The steering column is not going any farther down toward the steering box, so that means the steering wheel is sticking out too high, and there is a gap (a bigger gap than before) and turn signal won't cancel because that metal post is not engaging the white plastic turn signal cancel piece.

Any ideas? Was the old rag joint thinner? This new one is from Mac's and seems really nice quality, but maybe there is a different version that is a little thinner. I think just a 1/4 inch thinner would make the turn signal cancel after a turn.
Or is there someway I can pull the outside steering column up from inside the cab? I tried this but it seems set to be where it is.

 

You cant loosen the clamp on the steering box side and take a block of wood and hammer it further on the splines? Looks like there's a little room left.

 

Rusbukt,
Thanks, I know what you mean, it looks like that would work, but the bolt (also a spline bolt) that goes through the clamp has to go exactly there. It's hidden in the first pictures, but the shaft coming out of the steering box has a groove in it for that bolt to sit in, and the spline part is on both sides of that groove.
Bill

Here's the best picture I had of that, and of course a brake line is covering up most of the groove, but that's why that won't go down any farther.

 

I know exactly what your saying. Other than that the geometry's all look correct.

I got nothing.??

 

Mac's sells one that fits 65 through mid 66. Wonder if they changed design?

 

I'm going to hold the old one next to the new one when I get home. See if there's much difference in "thickness".

 

I think you may be able to solve your problem by loosening the two bolts at the dash and the one at the firewall retaining bracket and moving the column up towards the driver as much as you think you need and retighten your bolts at the dash to hold it. Then loosen the bolt in the lower bushing retainer collar, push your steering wheel back in to close the gap at the top and move the retainer collar up and retighten. Should give you the room your looking for. If its not enough move it again. When you have it where you want it retighten everything. Thats my idea hope it works for you.

 

1966 F100/250 2WD: Two possible steering couplers.

C5TZ-3A525-A & C6TZ-3A525-A

Here's the page from the parts catalog that lists the differences:

 

I just got my father-in-law's old '66 back to start restoring it (before pics to come).

It's a long shot but have you checked your cab mounts? He always said that was one thing to look for on these trucks because when they go out they end up trashing your rag joint because it creates extra force on that pivot. Might be why it's not fitting so well now - you might need to replace the driver's side one.

Careful with that steering wheel - you're about to lose an arm of it too!

 

You need to adjust the column to finish the job.

The column is adjusted by loosening of the clamping retainer at the firewall and the two bolts at the dash. AND also adjusting the retaining clamp for the lower bearing.

The after" section of the picture above is greater once this is accomplished. The retaining clamp seats the upper and lower shaft races (plastic or Steel Tapers. The plastic white part in your picture. ) for the bearings by taking up the slack by use of a spring in the column. The gap setting is 1/16" between column and steering wheel .

The race also looks a little dry so removal and a rebuild of the column may be in order.

Garbz

 

Hard to tell in pics but check your old rag joint with the one you replaced it with. Make sure they are about the same dimensions everywhere they look close from what I can tell. Garbz is right on the money by adjusting the column housing with your shafts new position. Also a great time to rebuild/grease your column if needed should be super easy I redid my 71's column with new bearings and retainers while it was out.

 

After supersizing the OP's first pic. Just below the worn out pin, on the steering shaft side, it looks like a crack in the metal "ear".
Maybe just an illusion.

 

^ Definitely stands out when looking for it. Wonder if it's a crack or a knick in the metal?

 

The indenting is from the press working the metal during the stamping process.

Garbz

 

Real good ideas, I'm still working on it.
I like the cab mounts idea. I should do that anyway, someday.
I've tried moving the column but I can't get it to budge. and I've undone those bolts, I may have to just about take it apart to move it.
As far as the "crack", it really does look like a crack in the picture, but I can't find it. So, I think it's an illusion because of the camera angle. If the original camera angle had been more from the firewall side, you would see that the "crack" is just where the half circle cutout starts for the pin.

So, I looked at my original order from Mac's again. I ordered the rag joint for 1966 before serial number 900,001. (which is what I need) But the one I got looks like the rag joint pictured for after serial number 900,001. But it was labeled for the other one.
Search Results For: Rag Joint For All Years And Models Parts & Accessories
So, maybe there is a size difference. I'll let you know in a week. They're sending me another one. Good service by the way.

PS. I'm new here, but thank goodness for spell check.
Bill