Please help with parking cable
#1
Please help with parking cable
I have a 78 F150 4x4, and am replacing my drum rear brakes. I don't have any experience with drum brakes, and started with the driver side. Apparently, whoever worked on them last, had everything backwards. I have a shop manual, and everything is shown backwards. I have a new parking brake cable and am trying to figure out where, inside the drum, it attaches. I took before pics, but cannot see where it was connected previously. Here is what it looks like:
20140704_133520_zps13ee7c40.jpg Photo by brokersteve | Photobucket
I also have this bracket that I THINK held the cable, but was routed on the right side, in the hole where the adjuster bracket (silver bracket in photo). When I took it off, there was no adjustment bracket or cable installed. Here is a pic of the bracket:
20140704_133650_zps32ea69ab.jpg Photo by brokersteve | Photobucket
And the other side:
20140704_133657_zpsda8348be.jpg Photo by brokersteve | Photobucket
Can anyone tell me where I need to attach the parking brake cable? I've got the truck halfway out of the garage, and need to be able to close it tonight... LOL.
20140704_133520_zps13ee7c40.jpg Photo by brokersteve | Photobucket
I also have this bracket that I THINK held the cable, but was routed on the right side, in the hole where the adjuster bracket (silver bracket in photo). When I took it off, there was no adjustment bracket or cable installed. Here is a pic of the bracket:
20140704_133650_zps32ea69ab.jpg Photo by brokersteve | Photobucket
And the other side:
20140704_133657_zpsda8348be.jpg Photo by brokersteve | Photobucket
Can anyone tell me where I need to attach the parking brake cable? I've got the truck halfway out of the garage, and need to be able to close it tonight... LOL.
#2
#3
The parking brake lever attaches to the rear shoe and is held in place by the c-clip (yellow circle).
The brake cable attache to the little hook at the bottom of the arm (green circle). You pull the spring back, place the cable in the slot and then let go of the spring to keep everything in place.
The brake cable attache to the little hook at the bottom of the arm (green circle). You pull the spring back, place the cable in the slot and then let go of the spring to keep everything in place.
#4
Also, notice that the shoes are two different lengths, The shoe with the shorter lining goes to the front of the truck.
The adjusters and the adjuster link are side specific and should be marked "R" or "L".
What you said about the PO having everything backwards may or may not be true. Like I said, the right and left side are mirror images of each other. You have to think, "okay it's towards the front on this side, so that means it will be to the front on the other side too.
If you think in terms of right and left, you're going to screw yourself up. Thinking like that, you would have to think, "okay, on this side, it's on my right. That means on the other side it'll be on my left".
It's a lot easier to think front and rear.
If you look at the illustration and it looks backwards to what you're looking at, it could be an illustration of the opposite side.
The reason you're having trouble with the parking brake cable is it looks like you left the actuator arms off. These go behind the rear shoe and in the pictures are kinda hidden by the shoe.
The adjusters and the adjuster link are side specific and should be marked "R" or "L".
What you said about the PO having everything backwards may or may not be true. Like I said, the right and left side are mirror images of each other. You have to think, "okay it's towards the front on this side, so that means it will be to the front on the other side too.
If you think in terms of right and left, you're going to screw yourself up. Thinking like that, you would have to think, "okay, on this side, it's on my right. That means on the other side it'll be on my left".
It's a lot easier to think front and rear.
If you look at the illustration and it looks backwards to what you're looking at, it could be an illustration of the opposite side.
The reason you're having trouble with the parking brake cable is it looks like you left the actuator arms off. These go behind the rear shoe and in the pictures are kinda hidden by the shoe.
#5
Thanks for the replies. I actually found that pic Mike posted in a previous post and it helped. The PO did have a lot of it backwards. The issue is that the new parking cable has a ball on the end, whereas the original cable has a round block stop and is fronted by a long spring. The way the bracket is bent at the end that holds the cable, it seems as though the ball might slip off the bracket. Looks like to hold it better, it should be bent the other direction so it will cup the ball on the cable. Do you think I have the wrong cable?
Thanks for letting me know the pads were different sizes. I was not aware, so will need to go check to make sure it's right. The passenger side went MUCH quicker after I put the drivers side together.
Thanks for letting me know the pads were different sizes. I was not aware, so will need to go check to make sure it's right. The passenger side went MUCH quicker after I put the drivers side together.
#7
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#8
#9
The ball end is just a different style of cable stop. It won't slip off.
Look at the picture, the spring is captive by the bend in the arm and will keep the cable from moving sideways to allow the ball to come loose.
If that wasn't the case, the cable would come loose whether it was a ball or cylinder.
Look at the picture, the spring is captive by the bend in the arm and will keep the cable from moving sideways to allow the ball to come loose.
If that wasn't the case, the cable would come loose whether it was a ball or cylinder.
#11
#12
Thanks for the quick replies. I finally figured everything out. The parking cable I have does not go to the drum, it goes from the equalizer bar to the pedal, LOL. I figured that out once I buttoned everything up, and went to connect it to the equalizer. It was WAY too long. So, all in all, I took each side apart and reassembled no less than 5 times total. Parking cable, shoe lining in wrong position, etc. I think I made every possible mistake. Of course, no I feel I could do it again with no reference. Bled the lines and everything seems to work well. I did not test but to turn around in driveway though. I've read on here someone suggest hitting the brakes hard to set the adjustments, is that correct? I'm used to disk brakes where you take it nice and easy with slow, uniform braking for a while. What's the proper way to break in the drums? Thanks again.
#13
Thanks for the quick replies. I finally figured everything out. The parking cable I have does not go to the drum, it goes from the equalizer bar to the pedal, LOL. I figured that out once I buttoned everything up, and went to connect it to the equalizer. It was WAY too long. So, all in all, I took each side apart and reassembled no less than 5 times total. Parking cable, shoe lining in wrong position, etc. I think I made every possible mistake. Of course, no I feel I could do it again with no reference. Bled the lines and everything seems to work well. I did not test but to turn around in driveway though. I've read on here someone suggest hitting the brakes hard to set the adjustments, is that correct? I'm used to disk brakes where you take it nice and easy with slow, uniform braking for a while. What's the proper way to break in the drums? Thanks again.
Just so you know, the automatic adjusters only work when you hit the brakes in reverse. That's when the slight rotation of the shoes will put tension on the adjuster cable and, if there's enough travel, click the shoes out one notch.
#14
#15
Adjust the brakes until there is a light drag on the drum when you spin it by hand.
Just so you know, the automatic adjusters only work when you hit the brakes in reverse. That's when the slight rotation of the shoes will put tension on the adjuster cable and, if there's enough travel, click the shoes out one notch.
Just so you know, the automatic adjusters only work when you hit the brakes in reverse. That's when the slight rotation of the shoes will put tension on the adjuster cable and, if there's enough travel, click the shoes out one notch.