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BossFan's '78 F250 build

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  #181  
Old 09-19-2014, 08:50 AM
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Maybe he miss read the 351W for a 351M...?
 
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Old 09-19-2014, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Maybe he miss read the 351W for a 351M...?
Yep misread for 351M .. Still on first cup I'll be good in another 20 minutes
 
  #183  
Old 09-19-2014, 09:02 AM
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Its all good, I had to go back and double ck myself.......lol
 
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Old 09-19-2014, 10:20 AM
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The day begins on the bobcat .. Redroads new garage spot

 
  #185  
Old 09-19-2014, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by redroad
The day begins on the bobcat .. Redroads new garage spot

Nice! Can you come build one for me when you're done? I'm just across the Delaware!
 
  #186  
Old 09-19-2014, 10:25 AM
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ball joints

OK, so all of the nuts holding the ball joints are loose. Do I need one of these to get them out?
 
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  #187  
Old 09-19-2014, 10:30 AM
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motor mounts

On a separate note, were the motor mount brackets painted or left bare steel? Also, what motor mounts should I get? There was no 351W in a 1978 F250. Do I get ones for a 302?

Also, I want to remove the shocks but when I turn the 9/16 nut, the whole shock spins. I tried holding the top with a 1/4 in. wrench, but that snapped. Is there a trick here?
 
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  #188  
Old 09-19-2014, 10:42 AM
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See the crimped in sides on the very top?

Originally Posted by BossFan
On a separate note, were the motor mount brackets painted or left bare steel? Also, what motor mounts should I get? There was no 351W in a 1978 F250. Do I get ones for a 302?

Also, I want to remove the shocks but when I turn the 9/16 nut, the whole shock spins. I tried holding the top with a 1/4 in. wrench, but that snapped. Is there a trick here?
You can either just cut them off or use the flat sides on the top on the shock bolt. Put your vise grips or an adjustable on that to hold the bolt while you loosen the nut.
 
  #189  
Old 09-19-2014, 01:10 PM
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Harbor Freight cost, Harbor Freight quality...it should last for at least 4. So you did not ck out renting the ball joint/u-joint tool kit?

Bare steel covered with grease, and or high temp rattle can black. Mounts ideas to follow, after research.

What snapped? The wrench, the tip of the threaded part or did it just strip? Do you need to reuse them? No sawzall, yes, strap wrench.

Look at the top of the shock, under the mount bracket, is there a nut like "fitting" that a open end wrench will fit on, at the top of the shock body?
 
  #190  
Old 09-19-2014, 01:42 PM
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  #191  
Old 09-19-2014, 04:23 PM
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I got the shocks off using an impact gun and removed the shock towers. I also pulled the steering box. Where the shaft attaches to the box just fell apart. I imagine that was one reason for my sloppy steering.

I cleaned up everything as best I could, including the mouse nest that was inside the frame. Would you recommend painting this part of the frame with POR-15 like I did the rear? There isn’t as much rust up front (I think the leaking oil over the years kept everything well coated)

I still cannot get the crossmember out from under the truck.
 
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  #192  
Old 09-19-2014, 04:27 PM
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Are the front springs supposed to have a bump-stop on the frame like the rear springs? Is that what this once was
 
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  #193  
Old 09-19-2014, 04:29 PM
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I'm assuming that if I do put in the lift kit, I will be replacing these anyway, but look at how this bolt/sleeve are rusted!
 
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Old 09-19-2014, 04:32 PM
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Check out the marking on this plate. I'm assuming this happened on the line when the truck was being built. I know what the codes are on the firewall of the GTOs I've restored, but not sure want ''9A' means for a Ford build. Pretty cool nonetheless
 
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  #195  
Old 09-19-2014, 04:36 PM
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$ well spent ck out Redhead steering Red-Head Steering Gears - Custom Rebuilt Steering Gear Boxes in USA
Borgerson steering shaft Borgeson Universal Company :: Ford Truck 1970-04

Wow you have some rust on that truck.
 


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