Is there a rough estimate on what it would cost to lift the truck and put in the crossover steering? The one 'JackIt' site had a 4" lift kit for $1700. Is that the going rate? How much is the crossover steering kit?

 

I should be around and hopefully redroad will be too.

D44 info and a tech tip.

If your Jeep has half ton internal hubs, chances are you have the three piece spindle nuts. The inner nut sets the tension on the bearing, the lock washer slides down the slot on the spindle and a pin on the inner nut goes in a hole in the lock washer, and the outer nut holds it all in place. Sometimes, you get lucky and that lock washer slides right down and the pin in the nut goes right in a hole in the lock washer, sometimes it doesn't. Some Ford Dana 44s use a self locking spindle nut that does not require aligning the pin and makes installation much easier.

If you have the 3 piece Jeep spindle nut, a good trick is to try the lock washer and if it doesn't line up, flip it over and try the other side. The holes are lined up a bit different when the lock washer is flipped over. Often this will do the trick, but sometimes nothing seems to work. Especially, if you are trying to fix a broken axle on the trail.

The Ford spindle nuts eliminate these problems. The Ford spindle nut ratchets down and locks on every click. You can set the perfect load on the bearing with no worries of aligning the pin. You have to press in on the spindle socket to engage the teeth in the ratcheting nut. Works a bit different, but easy enough.

The only down side to the Ford nuts is the cost. They run about $15.50 brand new at the Ford dealership. The jobber price is probably a lot better than that, but most of us ,like myself, have to pay retail. It probably is not too hard to get the nuts at the junk yard, but to save time, I just purchased two nuts brand new at the dealership. My local dealership had them in stock, so there was no waiting. When I went to the dealership, I asked for the nuts for a '94 Ford F-150. I got that make and model from a tip from Dave on our Jeep Forum. I'm not sure what range of vehicles they might have been used in. The Ford part number is E7TZ-1A134-A.

One thing I had to do with the Ford spindle nut is remove some material on the tab that slides in the slot in the spindle. I guess the Ford spindle has a wider slot it it. I did this with an air cut off tool, but a file or a hack saw would work.

 

Thanks Rich! I got to the point of realizing I needed that special wheel-bearing tool last night. Was able to remove the locking hub, the two snap rings and the assembly, and then realized I needed that 4-prong tool to go any further. Is that something that would be available locally or do I have to order that?

 

Jackit....about the worse place to start looking for lifts, IMO.

Here are a few that sale off the shelf stuff.

Skyjacker, Superlift, Rough Country.

Progressive rate springs... Atlas Atlas Suspension

Deaver....http://www.deaverspring.com/

Cross over...Sky manufacturing, Ruff Stuff

Ford - all - www.sky-manufacturing.com

Off-Road Fabrication Parts - RuffStuff Specialties

 

That socket is usually in the special tool dept at the local parts house, for 10 to 12 bucks, places like Auto Zone, Napa ect...could look into renting the ball joint tool kit its like $$ to buy.

With a punch and some patience, it can be take off, but a socket ensures no damaged lock nuts.

 

Are you taking notes, digital pics? Putting parts in order that they come off. Tag and bag hdwr, or but back in the hole it came out of on brackets and parts that come off.

Stick stuff in a cardboard pattern, works great for a water pump bolt layout cause some are at different length on a 351M.....just saying.

Things can get fuzzy come back together time.

 

Call deaver spring and tell them you want to lift the truck 4" and lose the blocks in the back and you want to go with a progressive/variable rate leaf spring .. They will need to know what you want the GVWR and the height of your blocks andthat you have stock spring widths both front and rear .. Don't forget to tell them your and FTE member and they are well spoken of there and we give them a lot of business so you expect to be treated right ..

On the cross over you will have to have the passenger side knuckle machined probably $175.00 with shipping unless you have it done local .. Talk to your local chapter guys for recommendations .. The kit should be $400 - $600
Dana 44 Crossover Steering Arm



You will still need the drop arm and your cross links but those are the basic parts .. You can find kits or piece together what's needed .. The 4X4 Store - Steering .. There's plenty written on the subject here at FTE ..

 

If I go with a lift, is this what i want? Dana 44 Crossover

 

Thanks guys!

Rich, I am photographing everything and putting all the bolts/parts in labeled baggies. All I wanted to do was replace the crossover that had a lot of rot...

 

Lol, its always like that...hang in there. And it was a rusty cross MEMBER, now you have cross OVER on your mind.

 

Yes that will work .. The next step up would be with either beefier tie rod ends or Heim Joints instead of tie rod ends .. Here is a good explanation for the value of crossover steering

 

What are these bolts for?


Also, if all I wanted to do was change brake rotors, would I still have had to disassemble the entire locking hub assembly and purchase the special wheel bearing tool? I saw that some online retailers sell a completely assembled hub and rotor. Do you have to disassemble that to install it, or is there a way to take off the entire hub/rotor assembly?




I think you can see from all the rust, that I really need to freshen up this front end. It might be easier to just find another front end that was already rebuilt.

 

Post back with any questions .. Also don't be shy about contacting some of the guys from your local chapter especially on some of these jobs that tend to be brutal https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum143/

 

So I removed the pan tonight and I'm not sure if my rear main is leaking, but it does look like the rear corners of the pain were loaded with RTV gasket maker. I would use a one-piece pan gasket when I put it back together. I'm guessing I should still pull the crank?


You can also see the broken bolt in my crankshaft. Grrr....

 

redroad I think he meant the bolts in his front end pics, they are steering limit/stop bolts.

Good read on the front end disassemble, redroad.

Yes you have to take the hub and rotors off together, as they are one piece (actually they are 2 separate pieces, but they come off the front end as one.

On a 1/2 ton the front rotor just slips on over the hub, separate from the lugs bolts. But with a 3/4 ton they are one. Once you take the complete assembly off you can tap/press out your lug bolts to separate the rotors from the hub.

Yes they sale just rotors $ and or a complete assemblies (hub and rotor) $$$. Just get the socket, you will need it come re-installation and torque time anyway.

One you have the hub/rotors off and get the knock in back side axle seal out and removed the inner bearing and get it all cleaned up and then insp your races, and make the call to replace the complete unit$$$ or get new bearings that come with races and tap/press out your old races and tap/press in your new.

Just clean up what you have, its doable with some work.