Rich have you narrowed down a camper yet? I think once that's done the question of over/under kill may be answered

 

Yep....that'll do it...

 

I guess I don't see what we're looking at.

 

Funny......that's what I was gonna recommend, and another 30HP to boot whats not to like!

Swamps HVHF IDM

 

The way I read it, he's going to get a credit card to pay for an engine rebuild because the valve cover gasket is leaking. I could be wrong, though.

 

If I could rep ya I would

 

They say reusable....but that's for the average guy.

 

That's a terrible idea. Getting a new engine at this point would be silly. I don't think I've ever seen anyone on this forum throw so much money on top of bad money over and over again. I don't mean that as a personal attack; but you have been given a lot of good suggestions and you don't follow them, you just keep spending money. Try to find a good IDM you can borrow to confirm or disprove, for example. Or test it with AE.

Are you suggesting that the excess oil around the number 7 exhaust port means the cylinder is dead? I think I'd want something more substantial than that to draw a conclusion. Can you temporarily install a pyro on that cylinder to verify?

 

You mean everyone doesn't want a 7.3 that cost more than buying a new 6.7?

 

That's what I did.... Newer anyways....

 

I haven't shared all the info with everybody yet, so my method looks a little "mad" to the reader. I haven't shared, because I've been doing a lot of homework before I assume anything.

#7 is cold - it didn't cook the oil off like the rest of the cylinders did. Every time I pull #7, the nozzle is coked up, and every time I put another stick in there - it acts up in a matter of months. This is not one or two incidences, this is at least four sticks... and I think as many as six. I've rotated things around so much that I lost track, and now I'm piecing it all together in a continuous timeline - just focusing on cylinder 7 (not the injectors). Cylinder 7 is also my banger... and I've been able to get rid of the banging a few times (without knowing how I did it), but it never lasts. Compression in 7 is 380 PSI - which is 15 PSI more than my lowest cylinder.

I get conventional advice for conventional problems... but I never-ever get normal problems on Stinky. I had four mechanics look at the truck and the whole forum heard my loose-injector video - but nobody came up with loose injector bolts. Now that I've shared that experience, we all know what it sounds and acts like... and a few more trucks have discovered this problem since then. I delayed getting a torque wrench (not that getting one alone solved the problem), but I've followed advice with everything else I've done... but not always from the public forum. The one piece of advice I've ignored - crank up the radio. Look at the oil cooked off 3 and 5, then the oil buildup on 7... and tell me you would just crank up the radio and ignore the miss, the bang, the revolving injectors - then hook up to a 5'er. As for the AE test - once it passes the CCT and Buzz, and the recorded PERDELs are good at idle... what else ya got? The problem is intermittent, and I am either too busy to test, or Stinky's in hiding when I do have time. I was lucky I had a PERDEL spike the other day - to confirm I was even looking at the correct cylinder.

After all my observations, the problem really crops up at 1.6 ms FIPW (only when engine is at full temp), and it gets worse as the FIPW shortens. This is the FIPW at cruise speed, not at idle (during a CCT)... which is 1.8 ms. I might surmise the injector is the issue, except for the other 3 (confirmed) fails... so the IDM, the cylinder, or the fluid feeds are suspect.

I have not put as much money into Stinky as it would cost to get a 6.7L, maybe I could have gotten a 6.4L with the money. Who here can change injectors on a 6.4L or 6.7L when they come due? How much does it cost to have somebody else change them? Going newer may cost about what I've got into Stinky, but I will take his maintenance costs for the next 10 years over anything with DPF, DEF, or a freaking body that needs to be lifted to fill the "pinche" washer fluid.

 

Then why don't you enlighten everybody and bless us with your info?

Because to everybody else it looks like somebody throwing good money after bad. Financing an engine on a credit card?

Sent from my Telegraph using IB AutoGroup

 

The photo doesn't look that way to me at all. I would not say the oil was cooked off 3 and 5, it simply looks like the oil never made it down to the exhaust port before being blown back towards the engine. When the engine is running, most everything is blown towards the rear of the engine. I would replace or tighten the valve cover gasket and then I'd hook up a fifth wheel and head out.

Put a load on it. If something is wrong then you'll find out pretty quick.

 

Without driving around the country and giving everybody a ride in Stinky to feel and hear what has recently developed (again), all you have is my word on it. It seems that doesn't....

 

You still refuse to listen to advice. A lot of times I withhold a reply because some people are really sensitive and I get "yelled at" for being mean. But I'm not, I'm just trying to help.

Hey, it's your money and you can spend it however you see fit. Yes, you could have had a newer and nicer studded 6.0 with a lot more life left, and that's very familiar to your 7.3 truck but you've chosen to stick with what you have. You are all over the place here, and most people come asking for help in figuring out the problem and fixing it without replacing unnecessary parts. Withholding information and then being seemingly perplexed because you haven't been given a glamorous diagnosis is bizarre to me. You've been given some good advice. Instead of instantly assuming there's a problem with something and immediately replacing it, you need to take the time and verify like everyone is telling you.
If you think an injector is bad, then have it checked for proper function before replacing it. If you think the IDM is bad, take some readings or try to borrow one to test. Assuming a cylinder is dead because there's oil around the exhaust port is not the right way to go about this. Check it out, spend some time with that AE and do some data logging while driving.

Nobody said you aren't feeling a miss, but you just pick something at random and decide that is the cause without confirming. Figure it out, fix your truck, save your money, and then talk about the 5th wheel. That oil stain doesn't tell you much, if anything, other than your valve cover is leaking. If you don't want to provide all the info or don't want the help, then all you're doing is providing us with updates to your credit card statement.

It's strange to some of us to see someone with a truck in need of repair spend so much money needlessly or on parts that provide no useful benefit... I have read 5 things for you to do and check in this thread. There are many more people more knowledgeable on this forum than me, and they've all helped me greatly in the past with my 7.3. If you handle this right and slow down, they will probably start chiming in.

There's a few more things that come to mind to look in to, not to say I'm even on the right track here, but in my mind the injector cup, rocker arm bolt torque, injector hold down and torque, UVCH connector or chaffing, and push rod condition come to mind to check next time you have that valve cover off.