This is going to be toy for the most part, other than going to the store to get a couple tons of fuel pellets every winter. I am not certain I will keep the truck as my dream truck is a 48 or 49 F2, but for now its a decent project.

Maybe if I can find a set of gears reasonably enough I would consider swapping them; With the 5:14s in it now, I could pull over a house; but 55 is tops from what I have been told. I have only had this truck up to 30.

 

Thanks for sharing! Nice to see your photos and video. Your neighbors love you, right? ha ha

Just wondering (guessing you must have) if you've explored the timing and distributor advance settings. You've got a heavy truck there so can't get too crazy, but Y blocks will take a lot more advance than the stock setting.

 

Tedster,

My neighbors definitely love me. Well we live on dirt roads in a private association, no cops, no laws... sooo, over the years we have dealt with quads and dirtbikes and all kinds of beat up vehicles burning out around the roads, this is MY payback! Haha.

I have it set to 6 deg BTDC, it still runs a little sluggish when I hit the gas, my guess is from vacuum leaks... my vacuum gauge was bouncing all over the place (0-21), I am not sure what I should have for compression PSI in the cylinders, but it seems to vary considerably between them.

By advancing the timing like you said... you mean further BTDC? Like 10 deg BTDC at idle? Also what should my idle be? I cant seem to get it below 750ish, and if I drop it down to 500ish, it stalls when I put it in gear.

 

Different engine, but I had the same issue with the vac gauge. It went away when I popped in a rebuilt dizzy. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the reply, but it is actually a refurb dizzy and carb. I appreciate EVERY bit of info tho, however I did notice that the distrubter cap does move slightly like it has some play even when clamped down. Everything for the electrical system and fuel system have been replaced.

 

Vac gauge bounces at idle? Should be steady 18-21 at 500 or spec RPM. You want to fix that. Auto transmission I'm guessing, probably 650? Right around 12-14 deg. is the sweet spot. But this will usually cause excessive ping unless the distributor advance is compensated a bit. You can use your vacuum gauge to set timing effectively, btw. Advance distributor body clockwise at idle until maximum vacuum indication, then back off approx. 1 in. of vacuum from that setting. This should be very close to 12 to 14 deg indicated with a timing light.

Crank damper rings often are slipped so the timing marks aren't accurate. Usually we want to limit mechanical advance somewhat and use lighter springs so the mechanical advance comes in early, about 2500 or so. Stock is 4000 or something like that.

You might check and see what your distributor is doing by running it up to 3000+ RPM or so and see the limits of your mechanical advance (vac disconnected and plugged)

Stay out of the plane of the fan, in case it decides to let go, or better just remove the fan belt for the test. It only takes a few seconds to check. Fluorescent timing tape works slick for this. Make sure your damper is good first.

 

Beautiful! That looks newly restored compared to trucks around here that age

 

Looking good Cory! Did you get it running right yet? The vacuum gauge method mentioned above worked great for me. Do you happen to know the part number for the power brake booster on your truck? I have a 64 F350 with manual brakes and trying to upgrade. Thanks, Jeff.

 

Thank you, it is a longggg process! I don't have the number, I will look at the one I have an see if I can find a number, I know ND will know. I have a parts catalog, I will look in there for you too... What I do know... they are HARD to find! If you need any help with anything, I did replace my entire brake system in mine.

My truck has a lot of issues that I can't figure out. In-consistant vacuum, and bad compression... (65, 85, 100, were just the first three I checked) I think my heads need a rebuild... I HOPE its not the lower end like rings... I am capable of many things but never tackled an engines lower end.

 

Here is a tool that I used to figure out the vacuum gauge readings. Sounds like sitting up has caused sticking problems with valves or rings. This tool might help you narrow it down some. What part of the country are you in? I am in SWVA.

 

I had the heads off, and did a lap job, but I don't feel confident. All the valves and lifters are operating normally. I may have a machine shop work on the valves and take the heads to them. I bought myself a vacuum gauge, but I need to ID the vacuum ports on my intake. I am in Connecticut, do you have any pics of your truck? You should start a thread if you haven't already

 

Here is my truck. My intake only has one port just in front of the carb. That is where I hook up my vacuum gauge. Is that where your power booster hooks up? The port on the carb to the distributor works the same but only after you move the throttle plate off idle. Sorry, not trying to hijack your thread.

 

Here is a brake booster for your truck! http://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-62-63-64-65-66-Ford-Truck-Power-Brake-Booster-And-Master-Cylinder-/171666216145?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27f81a94d1
Make him an offer and send him a message, I have bought a few things from him

My booster hooks to a port in the center rear of my intake, that front one goes back to my Auto Trans

 

wow! its my trucks good looking sister!

 

Haha, Yes, yours has more "patina" than mine does!

Decided whether to keep the boxes or go with a regular bed yet?