How much was the new one and did it come with a pump? sorry for the double post Internet explorer at my school hates this site so I cant edit my previous ones lol.

 

The one I ordered did not include a pump. But as I type that I realize that I've never tested the pump in the old one. Oh well, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. The price for the reservoir without pump was $29.79 plus shipping. This is what I ordered: RockAuto Parts Catalog

My wife's ex-sister-in-law lives in Tewksbury. My stepmom and brother and sister lived in Chelmsford for a very long time. I grew up in Manchester, before they got pretentious and added "-by-the-sea" to their legal name. You live in my old stomping grounds, but I suspect it has changed considerably since I was last there.

 

That's too funny, I'm sorry i thought my post appeared a few months ago when i last made progress on the truck but i guess it never did...damn school computers lol. What part of Tewksbury? I am on the Billerica line, Billerica goes threw my back yard lol.

I received a new washer pump and socket from Jeffs Bronco Graveyard last night so i will be installing that in the next few days it's currently -4 out so i am going to wait till it warms up into the 20's this weekend lol. Once i get this pump in i will take it for an inspection and see how she does hopefully she will pass since she only needs safety now.

 

Hey guys i got the new pump and pigtail in but i still get no fluid. The fuse is good and i hear the relay clicking over by the glovebox but I'm getting no power to the pump is there common issue?

 

Got the old gal back on the road today and took her to school and work she definitley gets better MPG's at 50-55 Mph vs 65-75 lol i used 1/4 tank in 30 miles vs 1/8 tank on the same trip back going slower.

The station didn't check the washer pump because the windshield had water all over it so they could check the wipers from there being rain on it so i got away with that one lol

 

Awesome! How does it feel to be back in a proper hand shaker?

I think I am going to replace the O2 sensor in my Ranger this coming summer. I've read that they wear out and can really hurt fuel economy due to improper air-fuel ratio. Perhaps the F150 is due for a new one too

 

Pull the codes that sounds like a lot of fuel to use on a 4.9L.

Our 90 F150 302 E4OD reg cab long bed 4x4 gets 16 usually so with a 4.9L stick shift short bed it should do better.


Jeremy when is the last time you cleaned your MAF sensor. I know my explorer got pretty bad gas mileage before I cleaned it.
Also you have 31s or 33s on your ranger don't you? That 4 cyl must really hate those. You should turbo it that thing would be sweet.
Trav

 

Maybe, i can't pull codes because it is OBD1 but there was a light i taped over the airbag light that goes off i believe it was error code 12 one flash pause then two flashes long pause repeat. I also put stock SD tires on it from my 04 so it has 32's and is turning less RPM's on the highway so i do also find it fairly poor. It has 212,xxx miles on it so she probably needs the MAF cleaned and a few other things done as well. Any maintenance that is usually done by now? I am going on the assumption that it just got oil changes on a regular basis before i got it.

Also i get an overcurrent with and radio i install so i may run a switched power for it at some point so i can use a radio instead of Pandora on my phone in the cup holder to act as a speaker lol. It does feel good to be back in the hand shaker though lol, however i need to do something about the seats lumbar because the bag has a hole i am assuming and doesn't fill up with air, the passenger side works though can they be switched?

Also what is everyone's thoughts about the 5.4 in the SD going into this? I am on the fence for when i swap the 12v in to the 04 about what i want to do with the 5.4l in her now. I would do a complete SD transplant everything from the dashboard to maybe even the axles and get an SD drive shaft shortened.

 

congrats on gettin this thing goin (assuming its the same truck I read about a while back)


for F sake leave the 5.4 idea alone lol. I'd turbo the 6 long before I spent the time and money for a measly 5.4 swap. however there is one rather large advantage of running a 5.4; it mates to a zf6. since I read in a prior post that you wont be using a manual, that advantage is moot.


12v will be a little excessive in that truck, too much front weight, and the frame might not like the torque turned up. 4bt would be perfect, and still be able to satisfy any power lust, especially vs a 5.4.


lsx is still a viable option considering cost, power, simplicity. while the purists will hate the idea...you could sell the 5.4 and find a 6.0 in the jy and make relatively huge power for very little money.


a 400+ cube windsor stroker would be nasty in that thing also.


my vote is 4bt or turbo the 6. you already have mass air, would be an easy power adder build. aside from that, if you are willing to do a few things to the trucks chassis and drivetrain, a turned up 6bt would make it one hellofa fun ride.

 

Thanks lol i know i should drop it, will a turbo gain much in the 4.9l? What size? Ive never delt with turbos in genersl before. The 12v is for the 04 SD lol nothing like that for the 95 maybe a 4bt but not likely in all honesty i would love to tinker with this engine though just want some more umph behind it she has a very hard time getting up to speed, will pull a house down though lol. I dont want it to go fast as much as juat be abke to get out of its own way and i am happy with the hand shaker but she is getting old and tired, grinds going into reverse from time to time and kicks out of 1st on occasion.

 

I say 460 w/ ZF5 into the F150. Then swap in Kingpin 60 up front and Corporate 14 bolt in the rear. Since you like to spend money Matt.... Atlas 4 speed in the middle of it all

 

You always know how to spend my money right so SOUNDS GOOD! lol what are king pins BTW? Is that a 4 speed Tcase?

 

King pins replace ball joints in the steering knuckles. I believe ball joints would be comparable to a ball and socket joint on the human body. King pins use small tapered bearings to turn the knuckle. There are various advantages that make them better for off-roading but also make them worse on pavement.

Ya. That's a 4 speed t-case. By buddy put one in his Toyota. He hasn't tested it yet, but it sure is pretty. You can get up to an 11.70:1 low range and you also have the ability to lock and unlock front and rear drive shafts independently. So you can have FWD, RWD, or 4WD.



Atlas4 : Atlas 4 Speed Transfer Case | Advance Adapters

 

ahh 12v in the SD makes more sense. I skimmed through the thread, so the amount of info I absorbed was relative....


I thought I read that this is a MAF I6 truck? doesn't look like it from the 1st page pics...


the 300 is a great turbo candidate, they handle boost well and aren't high spinners to begin with, so their power band with a turbo is very nice. if you are mass air already, its a simple as bolting up a turbo and the associated parts. the turbo size depends on how much max power you want vs spool time... hx35 or he351 should work well and are easy to find, cheap, although something a little smaller might be in order...something off a less powerful diesel would still keep it a budget build, would spool quicker and make less boost; like an old idi chevy or ford. all youll have to do is fab (or find) an exhaust manifold, run piping, match injectors, and take it to a competent tuner to put it on the rollers for calibration.


if youre not mass air already, converting is pretty simple and relatively cheap if you source the parts from the jy. gotta figure out what the best computer is to use for tuning though...I think the options are limited but I don't know what they are without searching myself.

 

Thanks for the info on the kingpin! i googled a couple pictures and i can see the advantages vs disadvantages for it. Would they last longer than balljoints then since there are less little parts to wear?

Thats awesome! FWD 95 F150 lol that is a pretty penny though, we will see i am not going to dump money into this truck just yet gonna "finish" the 04 first lol.

It should be MAF i believe its a 95 EFI 300 i will double check though to be sure and take a look at the intake but i believe i remember seeing a MAF sensor there on the intake tube.

EDIT: i checked the 1st page pics and it appears that you are probably right and it isn't MAF.

Sounds fairly simple to do do they sell kits for plumbing turbos on a 300 or no? i dont have a problem with teaching myself to weld on a few turbo pipes for this old gal.