so Ive never owned a diesel truck before but i found a interesting local sale listing of a 1991 f-250 , 2 door , 4wd , 5 speed with a listing of 86,000 miles. i know these trucks have the 5 digit odo so i ran a carfax and it has atleast rolled over once. Other than that clean report. The body looks extra clean and listing says it runs strong. The paint looks professional but not stock . I contacted the guy and he said that it was redone as a college diesel shop project 40,000 miles ago and has no rust at all and runs like a top but he is the third owner and not sure of actual millage . the gentleman is asking 4,000 for the truck. WHAT DO U THINK ? ANYTHING I CAN DO TO NARROW THE MILLAGE DOWN MORE ? WHAT COULD I LOOK FOR WHEN I GO CHECK IT OUT ? I KNOW THAT CAVITATION IS A BIG DEAL IN THESE IDIS.

 

 

If he doesn't have paperwork on a rebuild, then see if he knows which college did the rebuild and contact them to see if they have any records of it. Though, I have never understood how people "lose" paperwork on an engine rebuild or any major repair. That paperwork is a huge selling point when selling. Also, remember that he is ASKING $4000. Generally, those prices are flexible, especially if there is no proof (ie. paperwork) of a rebuild. The price becomes even more flexible if you show up flashing cash. If it runs good, talk him down and go for it!

-You can get test strips to test for SCA levels. Also, you can start it with the radiator cap off and let it idle up to operating temp. If there are no bubbles, then its good.

 

Also, if it's been rebuilt 40K ago, things will look pretty clean in spots. Not the quarter-inch-thick-solid-grease-at-the-bottom like a high-mileage engine.

 

I plan on getting some test stripes and checking the coolant and I agree if I look it over I'll get a general idea. What are some tall tale sighns or specific things to look at?

 

I'm still a newbie here, and new to IDIs so take this with a grain of salt. According to some of the senior members on this forum cavitation is not as big of an issue as it's made out to be on the 'net. As far as the rebuild go, look for built up gunk on the rear end of the engine. If the owner just cleaned the engine to sell it and didn't rebuild it, they probably didn't get in the middle of the rear of the engine. So, crawl underneath the thing and look for built up gunk.

 

Suppose all this is true. ... I know these trucks are cheaper but doesn't it sound to good to be true. Then agian maybe not. It is a 23 year old truck.

 

I just picked up my 7.3l for $2,800. That's miles exempt, (the same situation you're in) with a "switched gauge" that reads into the 400,000 mile marker. I'm quite happy with the purchase even though I'm putting more money into oil than I am diesel. If it runs well and the body is good, you're fine. The only person that can be satisfied with your deal is you. If you feel you got a good deal, then you did.
The great thing I've discovered is that parts on these trucks are stupidly cheap. I got my truck as an ether addict, so I knew I had some work ahead of me. New return lines, glow plugs, wires, and batteries, I'm in the hole almost $400. She leaks because of a crappy o-ring, but she runs and pulls stumps, so I'm happy.

 

Very well said I'll most likley grab it. Hopefully pictures next week. I feel like I'm buying my first truck all over again just because diesels are all new to me.

 

Just my opinion but that does not sound "too good to be true". Could be a nice truck for a reasonable price tho. Good luck

 

Ask what was done during the "rebuild". If he mentions ANYTHING about punching the cylinders out, even as little as .010 over, WALK AWAY. Yes, the cavitation issue is a huge scare without a lot of supporting instances, but 7.3's simply can't take being bored out. Their cylinder walls are ridiculously thin as it is.

 

Thanks for all the help everyone. .. every little thing helps me make a better overall choice.

 

heres the truck in person.... anyone see anything wrong or anything odd ? hopefully picking it up this friday .

 

Looks super clean, especially since it's a snow truck. I'd say ask the owner if they switched gears to accommodate the larger tires. Always check the bracket that the leaf springs are attached to for rust. It's not a major issue, cheap, but a headache drilling out those rivets. Check the inside of the rear fenders for rust or to see if they've been replaced. Good deal.

 

Thanks sephiroth for the tips . i will. the man says it was redone 40,000 ago and it looks like it to me . One good look over and test drive friday hopefully everything is good and i take it home with me .

Do you think it has a lift kit or did these trucks sit high like that stock?