1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

F-250 Drive shaft E Brake

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  #46  
Old 04-15-2014, 09:10 PM
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Here is what I mean about the rivets. Notice in the picture one has a larger throat (not sure if that is the correct term.) The smaller one is the same size Jolly Roger Joe used. The larger one is the one I pulled from the box of misc rivets.
How big are your holes? I don't know if mine were drilled out when I removed the rivets (I don't think so) or something else.

 
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:19 PM
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Jules, the material was sold for an ebrake on the drive shaft. Looking at the photo, when the e brake handle is applied, the band compresses around a drum on the drive shaft. So I guess the correct answer is its a band brake thats applied to a drum?
 
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:22 PM
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Joe,

The holes in my band are 1/8". The thickness of the lining is 3/16". The thickness of the brake band is 3/32"
 
  #49  
Old 04-15-2014, 09:36 PM
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I guess what I was thinking is that later transmission mounted hand brakes actually have the material on the inside and it opens outward against the inside of a drum, opposite from ours.

I used 3/16 rivets on mine, I think they barely fit the holes.
 
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:53 PM
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I just reversed the lining inside the band and installed it over the drum, then cranked it down. Looks fine, I think the wire backing is whats rivited or epoxyed to the band and the smooth surface contacts the surface of the brake drum. I think you were correct Jules, other wise it would be next to impossible to get a clean countersink in the mesh wire surface. I still have an inquiry into the seller. I will let you know what he says.
 
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:01 PM
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Sounds good. If you choose to epoxy and rivet, I would epoxy first, while clamped to the drum to hold it in place then it won't move when you drill the holes. BUT then I had to use a drill bit and turn it by hand for the recess.

So you could also calmp it in place and mark all the rivet holes, then drill thru and recess with a drill press would be much nicer. Then apply epoxy and rivet quickly.
 
  #52  
Old 04-15-2014, 10:07 PM
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Sounds like a plan. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old 02-06-2016, 08:12 PM
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Big thank you

Posting this to say thank you to everyone on this thread - without the info here I am sure my ebrake relining would of sat for a long time - Got the lining and rivets from McMaster-Carr and following Earl's guidance was able to pull it apart and put it back together today. I have been avoiding driving the truck much since I got it running without having the e-brake backup. Until I update the Master cylinder and separate the front and rear system the e-brake truly is the go to when any of the hydraulics let go.

While not nearly as pretty as Earls the brass rivets do look good against the black band.




Thanks again
JokerToo
1953 F250 with a LYB 317
 
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Old 02-06-2016, 10:39 PM
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I'm glad you were able to get it done. That's the wonderful thing about this forum. Guys sharing what they have done and giving tips.
 
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Old 02-07-2016, 05:20 AM
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1953 F250 e-brake missing parts

Hello ND,
Trying to find size of bolt and spring for the e-brake numbered 2616 and 2640. That setup is missing on my e-brake.
Finished the relining per the great instructions here.







Thanks
JokerToo
 
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Old 02-07-2016, 08:31 AM
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Here is what the text portion of that book says:





I searched on PartsVoice.com and it says Green Sales has 8 of the springs.
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It also said Dennis Carpenter had one, but I didn't locate it...
I would guess you could locate the bolt at any hardware store. Probably the spring too.
Edit: But the bolt has a hole in it for the safety wire, so if you need that it might be more tricky.
 
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Old 02-07-2016, 09:50 AM
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Hey Joe, are you going to continue your Y-block build thread? Been following it but seems you took a break until this thread popped up.
 
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Old 02-07-2016, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Outlaw56
Hey Joe, are you going to continue your Y-block build thread? Been following it but seems you took a break until this thread popped up.
Yeah, I've been a bit unmotivated lately as well as busy with family and work.
I need to finish up some wiring and get a bed built or bought (I'm looking at some ford script beds, but they may be sold before I can see them.) Then I need to fix up my seat and I will be good for cruising. Boy, that makes it sound simple. I need to jot down that list and put it in front of me.
 
  #59  
Old 02-07-2016, 10:38 AM
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I have three of these 56 F -Series projects all in pieces. 2 1/2 ton short boxes and a 250 long box with duallies and stacks. I can relate to the lack of motivation. When you look at the whole project, lack of motivation kicks in. When you like at one little project as a time, motivation kicks back in. Your emergency brake is a good example.

Get back in the game!
 
  #60  
Old 02-07-2016, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Harrier
Here is what the text portion of that book says:





I searched on PartsVoice.com and it says Green Sales has 8 of the springs.
Main
It also said Dennis Carpenter had one, but I didn't locate it...
I would guess you could locate the bolt at any hardware store. Probably the spring too.
Edit: But the bolt has a hole in it for the safety wire, so if you need that it might be more tricky.
Thanks, I will check out Part Voice in the AM- great to be driving the truck again
 


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