So I have got myself lost in the debate about one wire verses three wire alternator conversions. I ordered the one wire alternator adaptor from Johm Mummert. Does this limit my options to the one wire or can I still have the option of a one wire or three wire?

Does using a 1 wire cancel the option of using the charge light in the dash guage?

If using a 3 wire is still an option, does this allow using the charge light in the dash guage?

Does using a one wire eliminate some of those parts on the firewall in the stock 56 Ford F-100/250 that the generator runs wires to?

Some of the arguments I see agains the one wire are they dont have enough amp output, but I see one wire GM Alternators that put out in excess of 100 amps. That sounds like enough keep the battery charged on short runs.

The is so much debate on this issue, I just get more confused. The application is on a 56 Ford F-100 thru F-250 (I have several). Both have Y blocks.

 

How GM/Delco Alternators Work!

 

Thanks vntgrk. So a three wire definitely has advantages over a one wire, one being the ability to operate an idiot light. Im hoping I still have the option of 1/3 wire on the adaptor I ordered from John Mummert. If I remember correctly, he offered an adaptor for GM and Ford, so hopefully the housing is the same for 1/3. Thanks.

 

The one wire reg will work in the 3 wire config, but not the other way around

 

When you say adapter from John Mummert, do you mean the cast aluminum bracket? That will work with either version.

I can't really answer your questions. However, I can say that I have been running a 1 wire for probably 12 years now and have had absolutely no issues related to the charging system. I actually just replaced my 12 year old battery because it was finally starting to get weak. My truck is a daily driver that I rely on to get me to work, to the store, out to play, etc all year long, from winter temps in the teens to summer temps over 100 and the 1 wire alternator has worked great. I probably have over 20k miles with a 1 wire installed.

I can't say that I have experienced any of the cons associated with a 1 wire, however, I do not have any particularly demanding electrical devices. Other than stock stuff, lights, wipers, heater, etc, I have an electric fuel pump, a/f gauge, and aftermarket ignition with the box mounted where the stock voltage regulator was.

 

Charlie,

I believe the cast aluminum bracket is what I ordered, for a GM 1 Wire. I see Ron Francis is selling a connection from a GM 1 wire to run the idiot light on a dash guage, which would at least tell me when the charge drops below 11. At least I still have the option of going with either a 1 or 3 then. I had picked up a one wire for another project but that project is going to have air. I may swap it to another project that is going to be stock so I will have one of each, or go with the 1 wire on both. When you did the swap, did it eliminate several connections on the firewall?

 

With the Ron Francis low voltage sensor it lets you know when the battery voltage reaches 11 volts. With an charge sensor (idiot light) it lets you know immediately when the alternator quits charging, i.e. if you throw a belt or something BAD happens in the alternator.

For that reason I prefer a 3 wire and a charging sensor (idiot light).

I also have a car voltage monitor that I bought as a kit that has a multi-color LED. It should work on a 1 wire alternator also. Kind of like a voltmeter except with a light. Green = good battery, flashing green = charging, red = low voltage, red blinking = over charging.

vntgrk, that's a good article, thanks for the link.

 

I converted this puppy to GM one wire and after the fact, decided to put a charge light on it. Works fine. Once it revs to around 1500, the light goes out. The light stays out down to the 400 rpm I have the idle set at. It just needs that xtra RPM to get the VR excited (I'm the same way without Viagra and I'm not as old as this 9N)
So a one wire alt will work in a 3 wire world

 

No, but it did eliminate the voltage regulator on the fender. There may be differences between a '56 and a '61, though. Since you already have a 1 wire, try it and see how you like it.

 

I really like my alt no problems with it, idiot light works just fine

http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/...ps022c2dea.jpg

 

schoo, is that the three wire then or a 1 wire with a special wire to the idiot lite?

 

Nice Tractor. Did you restore it? Did you fabricate your own one wire with special fittings for the alternator or buy one like Ron Francis offers? I know what you mean about needing to get your alternated excited, lol.

 

Thanks. The restoration was done but it needed work to be reliable. I did my own wiring. The PO had it wired for one wire but didn't change the reg. And the wiring wasn't up to my standards, so I rewired the whole tractor, lights and all using my own stuff. Alt and lights is all this has, so it's cheaper and easier to fab up the harness.
But the thing is losing oil pressure when it warms up, so time to deal with that between snow plowing and field mowing seasons.

 

If I am following the stock wiring correctly, removing the stock generator will also eliminate the stock voltage regulator on the inner fender. The relay on the firewall will still be used when hooking up a one wire alternator. Does it sound like I have this correct? How would using a three wire affect the stock regulator on the inner fender or the relay on the firewall? This is still on 56 Ford F-100/250 with Y block.

 

Both the one wire and three wire alternators are internally regulated so you don't need the stock regulator with either.

Not sure what the relay is your referring to. Starter Solenoid?