Last weekend when the weather was warm I tore into the passenger side door on old Stanley to re-attach the inside door handle to the linkage. I wanted to remove everything in the door to inspect, grease, reassemble, and prepare for installation of the new door glass and rubber. I was only partially successful. I was unable to remove the door latch because the flat key from the door lock cylinder runs through it, and I wasn't having any success at turning the "screw" for the cylinder that's behind the door weatherstrip. The manual refers to it as a "screw" but it looks more like a rounded-out allen screw to me. I found nothing that will fit it. I have attached a picture. Anybody know what makes this thing move?

 

Be very careful getting it out! It is in a flimsy sheet metal tube attached to the cylinder housing, and it can break off, then you are really screwed! (Ask me how I know...) It is a set screw about an inch long.

Try a left-hand drill bit, 1/8" as I recall.

 

I had the exact same problem Friday! Thought about drilling it out, but before that thought about easy outs. Then on a whim, I took a small Craftsman Phillips screw driver and pushed against the screw while turning it. To my surprise, it backed out without a problem. It's a fine thread screw. I'm hoping to find a headed screw, same thread and length from Fastenal. Good luck.

 

I removed and installed the one on my '49 with an allen wrench. I would measure size but I have the door seals back in place.

 

These sound like good ideas guys, many thanks! I think I'll soak it with PB Blaster for the week and go at it again next weekend.

 

I have found that sometimes if you strip it with and allen wrench, you can use a torques wrench and it might come out. The teeth kind of dig in better. I did that on a few of my doors, but i also broke off a torques in one of the doors that i wanted to save the key cylinder.

 

Update. I sneaked the door seal back and fit the allen wrench I used. It measured at 3/32". Since we're asking for suggestions, I've used bristol wrenches before where the allen wrench stripped. Find one slightly larger than the allen and drive it in.

 

What's a "bristol wrench"? A Torx?

 

Click here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives
The bristol has sharp edges.

 

The Bristol fastener was new for me, too. Good info.

If you can get the set screw out, you shouldn't need to put back a headed screw. The set screw will work fine. Make sure your threads are clean and put the set screw back with some anti-seize. As tight as the area is under the rubber, the head will get in the way.

 

I've had about a 50% success rate when removing these darn set screws. Try a little heat to help unfreeze it. I agree with Wayne. Using a set screw is fine. I was able to find the same set screw as the original at my local hardware store.

 

I went back with a fillister head phillips screw.

 

I just got mine out this week (at the locksmith getting a key cut for it as we speak). I kept spraying it with PB Blaster and WD40. After about a month of spraying it once a week or so, it came out.

 

52 Merc,
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to find a new one as the reason I used a small screw driver is that the Allen socket was seriously misshapen.

 

out of curiousity, if you have no intention of saving the lock cylinder, is there an easier way to accomplish this if it is stuck (i.e. can you just drill it out)?

Reason I ask is I am about to tackle this and my lock cylinder has already been butchered by some back woods lock smith with a drill bit.